Wildman

:eek: When I spotted them, they were at $22. Guest there worth more than MJ tail lights :dunno:

Just kidding with ya :D I know you've been around. Yea, I'm doing 60's the past couple weeks.......but still find a little extra time to drop in here :D (even if I do fall asleep in front of the screen some nights :roll: ) Still a nice score for ya Ping :yes:

:rotfl2: Jeff.......not too bad looking......We'll hope for the best on your recovery :yes: Hope you can stay off your feet at work.......or you going to take some sick time??? Oh, and you'll learn real fast how to drive left footed, I had an ankle case on for 6 weeks years ago, and learn to use the left foot real fast if I wanted to get any wheres :D

Man.........you don't stop by here for months.........and then show up today with a "Free" MJ :shake: Is that what it took to get you back here again :hmm: :teehee: :teehee: Nice score Ping :thumbsup:

:agree: Ford uses a "speed" sensor in the top of the pumpkin for the speed-o and rear Anti-lock brakes, you do not need it.

No Problem........glad it was something simple :banana: As TJ would say..........K.I.S.S. :yes:

Assuming that Big Ton is a 4wd......... Grab onto the front drive shaft and twist it, and push it up and down, the slip joint ends up with some play and that's where your clicking sound might be coming from. I have the same clicking sound on my '89, and found the play in the slip joint, after Cherokee pointed that out to me :D

I'll get them copied in the morning and send them to ya ;) The Haynes manual is OK.......but don't compare to the FSM :shake: There a FSM posted some where around here, and Greatlakes has the manual on line. Maybe some one else can post the link for you. Me, I have the FSM and others on hand, and can't live with out them :doh:

Gas becomes "stale" after a couple weeks, and if you buy from a low volume station, you don't know now "stale" the gas is when you get it pumped :dunno: Yes, 2 years of a frame filter is pushing it, that's like a once a year if not more replacement item. Don't forget to de-pressurize the fuel line before you try to dis-connect the old filter :eek: Start with the simple things, and go from there :yes:

Came across these while looking for something else I know someone is looking for these - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT

Just check your "build" tread..........and checked the pictures...... Yea, that's worth saving :yes: Really in good shape.......well, except for the broken windshield :roll: And now your the 2nd owner :cheers: I was thinking after I posted before, if you need, I'll copy the pages you'll need for the weld seams, so you don't need to dig up that manual :D We help all whom save another MJ from the dreaded death pit :thumbsup:

88pioneer pointed out where the fuel pressure regulator is located, on the front of the fuel rail, and YES you need the regulator to control pressure. You should be getting 31psi at the test port, 39psi with the pressure regulator dis-connected. The fuel pump relay in on the B-tower, on the right fender, the second from the front. You also have a ballast resistor mounted on the left front fender, the white porcelain looking thing, that's has a pair of orange/black tracer wire feed in series thru it. So.........what are your goals with pulling all the vacuum lines out, and running an XJ tank in the bed????? :dunno: :hmm: Also........check you tank ground, to the "headache rack" :dunno: run a ground back to the engine ground stud and you'll know you have ground.

First question...........Is the Fuel Fresh???? You do drive this MJ?? It not just parked and sitting :dunno: If you can, check the fuel pressure, you should be reading 31psi with the vacuum connected to the pressure regulator, and 39psi with the vacuum dis-connected. Change the frame fuel filter. Pull the sending unit and check the sock filter, and the connection hose from the pump to the steel out-put line on the sender head, for cracks, missing worm clamps. Also, a good cleaning of the IAC would be a good start too.

2X's :yes: It's better to replace the roof section and not mess with the door edges. Less work to do when you don't have to re-aline the doors, and damage to the top of the doors. Glad to hear you saved it :thumbsup: If you were closer, I'd give you a roof section :D That's one body part that don't seam to rust out around here :roll: Heck, I'd even toss you a roof section with an OEM sunroof in the deal........look at all the extra paint you'd save :yes: If you get a chance, check out the FSM M.R.278, it's the complete workshop manual for the MJ's body work, and you'll find where the weld seams are for the replacement roof section Page S-95+ :brows:

You can check the shocks from pushing down on a fender, and letting go, to see if it keeps bouncing. Another thought......check the motor mounts and tranny mount to see if there torn up. Also........the flex plate could be cracked and causing your vibration and lack of power :dunno: Having it "re-build" in 07 don't mean they installed a new flex plate, and besides, that was 3 years ago, and how many miles :hmm:

I posted in your "other" tread. Have you changed the fuel filter???? Didn't see your mulit topics running :roll: The Book says.........At idle, the pressure should be 14-15psi. If the pressure is not correct, adjust the pressure regulator to obtain the correct fuel pressure. Turn the screw at the bottom of the regulator inward to increase pressure or outward to decrease pressure. Note the above is for the 2.5 engine, and while the engine is running and idling. From what you write, your with-in spec's if the engine was running.

The Book says.........At idle, the pressure should be 14-15psi. If the pressure is not correct, adjust the pressure regulator to obtain the correct fuel pressure. Turn the screw at the bottom of the regulator inward to increase pressure or outward to decrease pressure. Note the above is for the 2.5 engine, and while the engine is running and idling. From what you write, your with-in spec's if the engine was running.

Wow Jeff.........don't sound like you started the weekend off very well :eek: Yes, broken toes hurt for a long time, and every step you take.........a reminder :headpop: Hope for the better on saving that toe. Guest you'll be walking on your heels for some time now. Good luck, and speedy recovery :D Oh.......and I'll add........ :needpics:

Glad to hear your going for it :clapping: When you get it home, post up some pictures and "we" can all see how damaged it is. If it just like in the center, and the windshield area is damaged, you might just be able to chop out a section from a JY one, and patch it in :brows: The problem around the pinch seam at the windshield is, it needs to be almost perfect shape for the windshield not to leak. Some one whom has done some sheet metal work/welding, can make that patch work out for the better. Go with what the selling is telling you, yea, the motor is blown, need to be replaced/rebuilt to get the price in YOUR range. Then, from what is sounds like, you can gut the cat, and have it running in top shape again :brows: Good luck, and we'll all be waiting for the pictures :popcorn:

:agree: And at worst.......the roof can be cut off at the A and B pillars and a straight roof section can be grafted on :brows: If it's just dented in the center section, there are ways to repair that too. If it's on the edge, and the top of the doors are damaged, that's another problem. If the price is right, get it, some MJ only parts are worth alot more that what the scrap yard pays.

I think the wood blocks were an option where you Didn't have wood eating termites, just the metal eating termites :hmm: No, that's not a OEM light bar, not bad looking, and usable, but not the original :(

The 2.5 alternator will not work on the 4.0, totally different mounting, both location and brackets. I'm a little confused on your question about the ECU........Yes, a manual and/or Automatic ECU will work on either one, but, the manual ECU has a little lower idle RPM (about 650 RPM) vs. the auto (750+ RPM) Yes, the ECU controls the engine, timing, advance, and injector pulses. You'll also need to swap an auto Throttle body in for using an Automatic tranny. There are 2 plugs in the IAC for the ECU, plus the idle set screw is set for the higher RPM, and it has the bracket for the TV cable. Note that the AW4 uses a separate TCU behind the knee board, under the dash. If you convert from manual to auto, you'll need to swap out the dash harness. The only real change you need from a BA10 to the AX15 is to make a splice of the back-up lights, the connector in the tranny housing is different and on the opposite side. If I read your question right :dunno: Here's a link on the conversions, it might set you a little straighter on what your asking :hmm: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12206 And........ viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13375

:thumbsup:

Glad to hear everything worked out for the better :clapping: Must be really nice to have CW in the hood to help out too :yes: As JTDesign would say....... K.I.S.S. It's always the little things that make a Big Difference........with out throwing a bunch of parts at it :D

If your getting really bad vibrations in that 35-50mph range, check your U-joints. Or, when it starts vibrating, take your foot off the gas, and listen for a clunk, or for the vibrations to go away. Yes, the 2.5 is a little less pep than the 4.0, and you will notice that. Can't help you on the "doesnt want to shift untill i smash the gas" But it should have a TV cable, most all autos do :hmm: Your TV cable could be out of adjustment. I'm not sure the '86 has the same "auto adjustment" that the AW4's have :dunno: Oh, TV cable = Throttle Valve, not the thing you watch cable :shake: