Wildman

Seeing how your some what new here, and didn't check out the total forum...... Here's the step by step testing of the fuel pump, make sure you use the MPI steps - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Fue ... ostics.htm When you say you have a "Popping" noise, do you mean a 'mis-fire'?? It could also be your CPS that causing a mis-fire. And also the O2 sensor. Here the complete Renix sensor testing schedule - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Your '89 will have the ballast resistor. There is no timing to set on the 4.0, the timing, and injector pulse is controlled by the ECU. If the chain was stretched, which seldom happens on the 4.0, like Geonovast stated, the truck would be running like crap all the time. Also, with the mileage you have, check the EGR valve, and check for Vacuum leaks. And.......here's the check for vacuum leaks -http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Vacuum_Leak_Diagnostics.htm

Mine was installed correctly, the frame was sealed, square & true, the seal just wasn't sealing anymore after 15+ years (I pulled the sunroof from an 85' XJ). I used to joke that the sunroof made the MJ into a 'real' Jeep, wet seats, fogged windows, and noisy on the highway. :smart: Jim, I'm not pounding on you :cheers: I didn't mean it that way, but one thing is, you "re-used" it, so that might have something to do with why it leaked on you :dunno: I read were you ran the drain tubes, and that should have solve any leaking, but like you said, the gasket was 15 year old, and it might have just be dried out and not sealing tight. Sorry if you took my statement wrong :oops:

First question........Is there any dealer in the whole country that would sit on a unsold vehicle for 9 years???? That really sounds fishy :hmm: And.......IF, that XJ sat there for 9 years, how come in the past 2 weeks, they have you, and 3 other buyers for the same vehicle :dunno: That really sounds fishy :hmm: (again) I'm sure your state has the "verbal contracts are binding" like NY has, and besides that, you have a "sales contract" with $$$ changing hands *even thought they did not deposit your check* for a reason. Besides calling your friend the attorney, and asking about this, I would also contact the DMV and question them, and even ask about complaints about this dealer that they might have on record. What jpdocdave posted, I'll agree with, I got a sweet deal in '92 on a '90 E250, the dealer was force to unload it because Ford Credit was on them about it (I knew the general Manager at the dealer) so I get this phone call one night, and he tells me he has to move it, it had 18 miles on it, and I put 10 of them on myself on the test drive, so he knocks over 6 grand off the sticker price, I buy it, and what a mistake :shake: At 40K, it went in the shop to replace every gasket on the engine, for over $1200 :eek: And at 80K it ran like poo, and the dealer did a tune-up ($360) on an engine that had a broken valve :shake: *yea, I got half my $$ back on that one, cause I knew where the owner lived, and reminded him of that :brows: And when we pulled the head off, we found a hole in cyl #8 piston, and bore shot, so I put a used 302 in it, and dumped the thing. And this was all in the 3 years I had the thing........never again :shake: A vehicle sitting idle for 9 years, I could image the problems you'll have with that, so maybe this is a good thing coming your way. Bad the way they treated you, but you just might be the one to shut them down ;)

Just for S & G, anybody have an Idea what this would go for :dunno: I mean........like if I bid $1 and no one else bids................ :D :D :D Like that would ever happen :roll:

:agree: :yes: When ever I go to the P-N-P I see S10's and tons of Rangers........I've yet to find an MJ there. If you really want to chop a top, pick something that don't start with the letter "J" If your MJ is a total rust bucket, then fine, cut away, and use the parts to save another MJ from destruction. As far as sun roofs, I have 3 MJ's with the sun roof, 2 are OEM, and if installed correctly, they do not leak. If your looking for a new sun roof, check This out :brows:

Yes, Great Story about a Great Man........and his Jeeps :D Thanks for posting that up jeepdoggydogB :thumbsup:

Very common problem where the 2 steel lines enter the sending unit cap, the lines are soldered to the cap, and after time, the solder becomes loose, and leaks. You can take the sending unit out, clean it up, and re-solder, or braze the lines back on the cap. But, first, remove the wire harness, so you don't melt the plastic connector and the wires, and reinstall it with a new O-ring under the connector, and a new snap nut on the inside.

:redX: I'm sure the 'other' Mod's didn't miss that :roll: :teehee:

Cotter pins are a "once" use item, and should never be re-used :no: {Learned that back in auto shop in '72 :D }

:agree: On the rear harness, behind the bumper, there are crimped splices in the harness from the factory, and after.......well.........20+ years.......... :roll: they do corrode. I've pulled one harness completely out, and worked on it on the bench, and replace all the open crimped connectors with insulated butt connectors, filled with die-elect grease, and re-taped the harness.

:agree: Check for looseness in the tie-rod ends first, and over all front steering components. Also check the steering rod, from the steering column to the steering box, the u-joints do become worn out, and there are NO replacements for the u-joints, best to just find a junk yard steering rod, and replace the whole thing. The steering box (gear) has an adjustment screw for taking up "some" slop. But the way your describing the steering wheel turning almost a half turn, I'd guest the steering box is shot :(

PM received and package will be in the hands of the USPS tomorrow........... :eek:

I traced out a rear slider this morning on brown paper. Take your pick on whom is closer :teehee: Or, PM me your shipping addie.

Your post is confusing 2 different problems at the same time :hmm: First.......the brake warning light...... Did you have the brake lines apart??? change out a brake master?? What everyone wrote is correct, the parking brake pedal sometimes sticks, and does not make contact with the micro switch, causing the "warning" light to come on, if your sure the switch is closed, then you need to check something else. If the brake circuit was opened, as explained above, there is a switch in the distribution block that needs to be reset, the only way to reset the switch is to apply at least 250 pounds of pressure on the brake pedal, so hope your seat in mounted tight, and put both feet on the pedal, and that should "re-set" the switch, and the warning light will go out. Now, back to your tail lights, you wrote that the brake light are working, correct??? You have not "marker" or "running" lights, correct??? First, check the fuse, I think it's #13 in the fuse block, should be a 10 amp fuse, it also controls the dash lights. You wrote that you also don't have any front marker lights. Could be a problem with the 20 year old main light switch, or more that likely, the front light sockets, that always seams to solve running light problems. Get your brake warning light off, then check the front light sockets, after checking the fuse and main light switch, and check back here.

Shelby - Congrats on the COTM :cheers: Wow........what a transformation :eek: So now we know what the 1997 model year of the MJ would have looked like :D Great job on putting everything together on that :thumbsup: Knowing that alot of "newer" parts really have to be massaged to fit an older vehicle :headpop: I know you've spent alot of time on this project, and add alot of participation to the forum :thumbsup:

I didn't mean that the info you posted don't belong here, yes, it does, as the MJ and XJ share alot of common items, like axles and gear ratios, like you posted. Sorry for my confusion :oops: What I mean is that the info that's out there, might be a common denominator, but the only real fact is to check what you have, like gear ratio's, what's common, or should be there is only proven with pulling the cover and reading what's stamped on the ring, then you know what you have. Who knows if some hay farmer ordered his brand new MJ from the factory with 4.88's and a 4.0 and 4 speed for pulling hay wagons :dunno:

Either the hydraulic line is balooning like Bob said, or perhaps the PO had the flywheel machined when the "almost new" clutch was installed prior to you acquiring it. Jeff Yes.......the Flywheel........ :doh: Good point MJeff ;) If the flywheel was machined......... :no: It can not be machined, it has a concave surface, and only a New flywheel should be installed, this could be your problem with the 'premature' failure of your clutch.

Well.......the positive off the post proved your alternator is shot :roll: Last one I changed........I took the battery out, and the battery tray, and had plenty of room to work on the alternator. I know others have done it from the bottom side.......me, I don't like laying on the ground :roll: Why is it so low :dunno: Ask the AMC engineer that designed it that way :idea: For Serpentine belts........I pay the extra $10 for the better ones, had way too many cheaper belts squeal after a 1000 miles :headpop: Oh, and stick with a good name, like Gates or Delco, not the 'store' brand.

The "Pan" in the tank acts as a reservoir, there are no 'baffles' in the MJ tank, and to keep the pump supplied, the pan does this as the gas is sloshing around in there. The pan is needed for the EFI. Also, the return line drop into the pan. When installing the sending unit, you want to make sure the float arm does not become trapped with the pan, other wise, the sender unit will not function. I think your best bet is RayBucks, plus you can pick up, right Bad_MJ??? As I told you, Por-15 makes a gas tank kit - http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15-Fuel-Tan ... -p-50.html Me.......I would just buy a new tank, and get another 20 years out of it........after coating it with This product ;)

Ah.......yea......... :roll: I also know a guy who was working on the other side of a truck shop, then his "former" co-worker was working near a gas tank..........Oh, he made it out.......some how, still don't know how :dunno: I wouldn't go into the other details, use your imagination. But.......they rebuild a nice new shop in place of the old one, minus one mechanic. Gas don't burn.........vapors Explode :eek: I'm sure Bad_MJ know enough to seek out his friends advice on this matter ;)

What's 'very deep'? I don't think I've ever seen a set go through Ebay. I seen a set go thru in December/January :hmm: and tagged them and watch them go for around $42 :eek: Too much for my short pockets :( My pockets are so short........when I lay on the ground, my 3 pennys roll out :fs1:

comanche09 - That is the way the OEM tow hooks came, with the bumper bracket welded to the tow hook brackets, and with the welded nuts for the 3 bumper side bolts. I couldn't tell you if the '97 bumper brackets are the same as the Renix era, but if there even close, I would leave then on ;) JACKED88 - You posted a bunch of info on the XJ :eek: We're talking MJ's here, there is no "Up-County" MJ package :shake: Yes, alot of items and packages were the same for the 60 and 70 series, but there were also many differences. If you have the "plastic" skid plate, or bottom cover........remove it, it does nothing but hold dirt and moister at the bottom of the tank and rot the tank out :eek: This was only an odd option, and I've seen a few of them, and rotted out gas tanks :( As Peter wrote, in the hay day of the MJ (and XJ) anything could be ordered, there were no set standards in the trim packages, like other manufacturers or having a trim package like the 731, that had X amount of goodies in that package, it was a crap shoot then, and it's a crap shoot today figuring out what Your MJ came with when it rolled off the line in Toledo. Plus.........what was done with your MJ over the past 20 years????? Were the tow hooks removed/added :dunno: Got stolen in the mall parking lot :dunno: Never got them rolling off the line :dunno: Kind of like the sunroofs, it was a dealer installed item, not in Toledo, and did the dealer install the "official" sun roof, or get the guy on the corner that did details and accessories to install A sun roof :dunno: If you ever get a hold of a FSM, look in the 1st section, and you'll find all the "Dealer installed options" that these truck had to offer at that time.

Are you asking about the hole in the rear apron of the bed, like under the tail gate??? I just pulled a wire harness off a '88 bed the other day, I can check the diameter of that hole for you, where the wire grommet goes in :brows: I'll post up tomorrow night ;)

2 thoughts :hmm: Did you replace the line from the master to the slave??? You know........like get rid of the 20 year old rubber. And.......the clutch pedal pivots on a bushing at the top, is it possible that the bushing is worn out, and causing the pedal it-self not to throw a full stroke???? Also.....are you installing after market slaves??? I've never hear anything good about the after market slave in the "kits" only good from an OEM slave cylinder from a dealer. I'm sure Eagle will jump in here about how the after markets slave only last about 6 months, which is about the amount of time you have on your :roll:

I don't have a good digital camera, but I have a great video camera. Hopefully I'll remember to bring it. For those of us that Can't make it.........We want the movie version, like the 'American Pickers' :yes: We'll all be waiting :popcorn: