Wildman

That's true :D And if all goes well.........it could be your private hands :D Best of luck at the auction ;)

If you would have taken a few of us up on our offer's a few weeks back, you would be in a better stance for this :brows: Let's see.........3300 members........all of what, 200 really active.........at $20 a piece...... :hmm: Yea, that adds up real fast :D Then you could have put it in your living room and made COTM in the future :yes: And if it didn't go.........you could have bought some web space and stickers with the sum to the cause :banana:

Pull the in-put line from the frame filter, and see if your getting fuel out of the tank first. If you have fuel, it could be the frame filter, or the supply line up to the fuel rail pinched/plugged. If there is no fuel from the tank, then you'll need to pull the sending unit and check the pump, and the small soft line from the pump to the sending unit head.........and as in the pass......make sure the worm clamps are on that line. Having the vacuum line off the pressure regulator, would cause the fuel rail to reach 39psi, instead of the 31psi you should have. Also.......is the gas fresh???? and Not 6 month old varnish????

That's good :D So, when you get it for $100.......You'll get change back :banana: I think :hmm: :dunno:

MJeff........Your confusing the 'ole Chef years with the Wrenching years again :shake: kastein - Do your self a favor, and tear all that junk out of there, and get rid of the load sensing valve, and read the post on running ONE hard line to the rear. The less lines and connections, twists and turns you have, the better chance you'll have less problems latter on.

:agree: FEY have changed over to Westin. http://www.westinautomotive.com/ They are a better bumper than the OEM :yes: Also, any bumper from a 1987-96 Dakota will match up with the MJ. The one draw back with the FEY is the paint, if you get one, get some good quality paint on the back side (inside) and when the exterior paint starts drawing down, get it re-painted. Unless you go with the FEY Chrome Step bumper :brows:

I understand that, others have used the Carter replacement pump with out any problems with fitment in the sending unit brackets. All I asked, why this Airtex is coming up, I've never bought one, and I don't know anyone else that even tried one :dunno: For what's it worth, you could go with the Bosch pump from rockauto, and know it will fit the sending unit bracket :yes:

That's why I started buying from them, on e-bay, 2 - 10 spools with shipping for $40. And yea, I checked my supply, I have 3 spools on hand, but......still might grab a couple at this price :D

:jump: Yes......It's back up :yes:

Got this in the e-mail the other day........hurry, the sale ends the 25th :eek: This is from HTP/America Inc, good company, bought a lot from them, and never had a problem with products or shipping ;) http://www.usaweld.com/030-ER70S-6-Stee ... /21030.htm http://www.usaweld.com/035-ER70S-6-Stee ... /21035.htm http://www.usaweld.com/023-ER70S-6-Stee ... /21023.htm

Yea, I just notice this tonight when I was looking up something for a Tech answer. :fs1: But.......it said that the domain name is up for renewal on 4/21 (Yesterday) so Hopefully it will be back up shortly :D And YES, it's a great source for our Renix era MJ's :yes:

Most, not all Pioneers had the back carpet, never seen one in a Sportruck, unless.......it had bucket seats, then it had the back carpet.

oh anouther thing is the stalk has cruise controll but the truck don't. does that sound right? His very first post said he has the delay on the MFS. If that's true, it might have been bypassed by someone already. No, I think all that means is he has a wiper stalk w. delay plugged into the MFS. One thought for you........ If you push the stalk in, and turn it clockwise, it will pop right out of the MFS. So........anyone could have installed a delay wiper/cruse stalk in your truck, and then you would think.........'Gee......I got all these goodies' :teehee: :teehee: So think about it, if you don't have the sterno motor under the hood for the curse, you don't have it.......if you don't have the DW control box under the dash.....you don't have it, and the seller of your truck pulled a fast one on you........maybe :dunno: Just because something is there, and it looks like the real thing........It might not be :hmm: So, pop the stalk out, and if the wire for the curse is not hooked up, AssUme that the delay wiper extra wire is also not there :eek:

Most, not all, of the OEM fuel pump in the MJ were Bosch pumps. If you look on rockauto.com, they list this - CARTER Part # P74155 More Info {In Tank Fuel Pump and Strainer Set} w/Bosch OE Pump Part Image $84.79 *notice the ......w/Bosch......* The other pump spec'ed, which I've never seen in an MJ was the Walbro pump. Where this "Airtex" is coming from :dunno: I see Rock also has it listed. Unless, you have really deep pockets, and want to buy the only OEM pump left in the country and be proud of that fact........go for it :D Oh, and if your sock filter was gummed up, Yes, clean out the tank the best you can, before you install a new pump. And change the frame filter before any major running.

Your question is really open ended...... Like what engine, year, mileage.....ect. The hard cranking could be CPS starting to go bad. The high idle at start and hard cranking could be the Throttle Body needs a good cleaning, including the IAC and adjustment to the stepper motor. The clutch chatter could be 'hot spots' on the flywheel, and slipping, bad clutch disk. Take a breeze thru the DIY section and check out on what to test, then it can be narrow down ;)

Kool.........I like the simple fixes :yes: Less :typing: I have to do And......Your Welcome :cheers:

Check the Ballast Resistor on the left front fender - The white porcelain looking thing behind the air box, that controls voltage to the fuel pump after start, and common item to go bad. Unplug the two Orange wires, and connect them together, with like a paper clip, if the truck starts and runs, there's your problem, and about a $8 part :D

If your looking for just the sending unit - A sending unit from '87 - '90 will work from a 4.0 engine, But, The pump is different. There is a difference on the SWB (18 gallon tank) and the LWB (23.5 gallon tank) with the sender unit (long arm = SWB and short arm = LWB) So........what ya have, SWB or LWB??? And yes, I'm asking all this, because I might be able to help you out :D

When why are you worried about destroying the old one, if you have a replacement :dunno: :shake: If you're pulling the shifter handle off the column for re-building the column, then the trim knob don't need to be removed.

I didn't have any problem with seeing the "column shifter" in your post. Yes, they are glued on from the factory, in most cases, like the one's I have, there all loose, and your might have been at one time..........and the previous owner did the "epoxy" set for life to the end knob. If you really need to take it off.........looks like you only have one choice.......destroy it. But.........why do you need to remove it????? the column shifter is held in with a roller pin :dunno:

So.........it turned out to be a simple fix??? Ah, yea, the mini worm clamps are needed on the flex line from the pump to the sending unit output. Well.........glad you got it fixed :D I bet the truck runs alot better now :yes: Just one of them 'ole K.I.S.S. things :doh:

Yea, I hear ya on that one........run into the same problem up here :doh: But........we don't have a problem finding low mileage XJ's that are totally rotted out :roll:

You back again :eek: :hmm: So the new fuel pump didn't get the pressure above 23psi??? And you ran a jumper from the fuse box to the pump, with an extra ground.........so that checks that the pump is getting 12VDC. And, you checked the fuel pressure before the frame filter.........correct?? If a line is pinched or clogged, it would not increase the pressure, it would reduce "flow" and drop the pressure at the fuel rail. Only thing I can think of is the rubber fuel lines from the sending unit, to the hard lines, and the rubber lines on both sides of the frame filter. If you replace the lines, make sure you get some high pressure fuel line. There is a chance that the soft (rubber) lines have internally collapse, or swelled up and are causing a blockage, after all.........they are 20+ years old. When you replaced the 2nd fuel pump.........did you reach in and clean the bottom of the tank??? How was the sock filter on pump #1??? Clean??? Dirty??? Also, if your getting around 40 psi off the supply line before the frame filter, then you narrowed it down some.........now you need to check the supply line from the front of the filter, up to the fuel rail. Take a good look at the hard fuel line where it's mounted on the frame under the drivers floor board, see if there any major corrosion on it, exterior corrosion and cause a internal blockage. Last :idea: I have is the pull the fuel lines off the rail, and replace the quick connectors/o-rings. A part of the o-ring could have worked loose, and plugged the in-put of the fuel rail. Part of what you wrote is........when you pinched the return line, and the pressure didn't change.........then there has to be a bad spot in the supply line, because when you pinch the return line, the pressure should shoot right up, your not getting the pressure, 31psi or the flow that you need. Hate for you going thru all this work.......like changing out the fuel pump.......again, but your there, we're here, and can't just check this and check that. Also, from what you all wrote before, it sure sounded like the "new defected fuel pump" Just for S&G's, list the make and model number of the pump you installed, both :brows:

Where's the pictures of the leaking gas tank :dunno: Just where is the tank leaking???? At the O-ring for the sending unit?? At the supply line/return line on the sending unit cap?? Or, on the steel tank it's self?? I would say rockauto for your location, http://www.raybuck.com is another option. And no, you can not install a 23.5 LWB tank on a SWB MJ, it will hit the rear axle :eek: Just make sure you get a replacement tank for FI, one that has the reserve pan inside the tank.

You need to get rid of all the rust you have around the pinch seam, a wire wheel/brush is better that grinding, you don't want to distort the pinch seam at all. Then you need to prime the bare metal, and top coat it with some good quality paint, like rustoluem. If you continue on with installing the windshield, you'll need some fast cure urethane sealant, either primer-less type, or regular urethane sealant with a bottle of primer. If you want to replace the metal trim with the one piece rubber gasket used on the '94+, this is one source - http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showL ... elID=39265