AnotherOldJeepGuy

Good Point. Fossil fuel = Fossil fuel.

Thanks for all the info. I'll post how it goes, perhaps with some along the way pics to document things for anyone else that might want to see them. I am supersized Expedition injectors can be used, learn lots from this group!

One of the 6 is leaking, but it is not constantly leaking. I did manage to catch a time of "leaking a lot" on video, but I don't know how to get a video from my phone posted here. I am about to start disassembly debug. I do have a new injector I can install, but I can't tell for sure the injector is really the problem. I generally can't catch the active leak, I can just smell it and notice damp parts. When I could witness gas leaking, it was puddling below the point where the injector is installed into the engine, and I still could not see exactly where it was coming from. But if you compare the leaking injector to one that is not, it appears the injector is damp from top to bottom, suggesting the leak might be at the highest point, or, it was being squirted upwards and I just don't get to see that (and I don't see evidence on the inside of the hood to suggest anything has been squirting upward). During the time I caught this actively leaking, there was smoke coming out in a few places out from under the heat shield, I presume it was the leaking fuel being heated on the intake and evaporated. When I can't see the active leak, I don't see the smoke either. Note that I replaced the rings on all of the injectors about 6-9 months ago because of smelling gas and at lease one damp injector then (I think the same one but not sure). Since I had it out I replaced all the o-rings. I did not like the new o-rings because they seemed fatter, and because of that were very difficult to insert into the rail. The ID seemed to be sufficiently similar. What I didn't like was that the original (broken) had a flattened outer edge, the new one was round. I didn't have much luck finding any new ones that were flattened, and decided to assume the original may be flattened by being under pressure and heat for 30 years. So, most of the above is posted for comments at the moment, since as far as I can say right now, the only actual question I have is, do I need to get my hands on "pre-edge-flattened" rings, and if so any suggestion on where and/or part number, or are the new donut shaped ones OK (albeit very difficult to push in)? Thanks

I put checking that on the to-do list! Some repairs have to wait until I have both hands functional (got a splint on one at the moment). I took a road trip over the weekend, about 500 miles. Made it there and back so my issue is not terminal yet! I have an injector leaking now that may have been leaking less previously. Don't know if that would cause the problem but it does seem possible. Anyway, it is a visible leak so I don't need to guess if it needs fixed or not! Luckily I picked a new one up at the Advanced Auto closeout so I have one on hand. Always something that can be done to this old truck! If that gets too interesting I'll probably start a new thread on that repair (or find an existing one to add to).

Test drive completed, no change . I was not that surprised since most if not all of these connections did not really look like they were intended to be airtight. But even though they didn't change this particular issue, it probably can't hurt for these to be more snug anyway.

I have a new one in there now. I waited until I had the replacement in hand since I expected the something to break, and it did, working the old one off. The rubber at the engine end ripped rather than pulling off. So if the path was clogged in the hose before it should not be now. It was a bit of a struggle getting the new grommet in at the valve cover, but got it in there. Time will tell if I can tell that I actually accomplished anything useful .

I found only 1 actual opening so far... a mystery hole just before the large air hose to TB. I added a few snug zip ties where things were fairly loose. I don't know which if any of these are not really intended to be air tight anyway but they are more snug now. Now off for a test drive to NAPA to pick up a part on order that came in. Will make note if any of the tendency to die has changed.

Mine appears to have a recessed cover of some kind.

Nice write up, someday I may take on that update. AFAIK all the hands on junk yards in a 50mi (or larger) radius from Plano are now extinct! So I don't figure I'll have that option, but I'm guessing EBAY might work well. Anyway this one is on the to-do-a-bit-later list

Nothing is unplugged intentionally anyway and no plumbing has been touched any time near when the problem came up, unless accidentally. I'll look more closely just in case. I pickup up new Throttle and Crank Position Sensors in the Advanced Auto close out, one for $3 and the other for $1.80 (last one they had of each), so I can experiment with swapping if I need to. At least the TPS looks easy to get to, I've read the CPS is not.

@Salvagedcircuit I had not thought of heat shrink repairs. If I can find a leak I will keep that in mind as an option. The tapped repair from cruiser makes sense but seems a bit more risky, but doable for sure. I like you house routing much better than mine. Is this your design or an improvement from the factory? The way mine is is not modified by me at least, and I am the original owner, so if it is different from stock on mine I'd have to guess its part of some repair shop work in the past I don't remember. My hose routing interferes with changing the air filter much less that how yours is routed so if I have to rework this area I'll shoot for something that looks like yours.

Thanks @GonzoTheGreat The assembly to the left as pictured is newly replaced, about 6 weeks ago. It got broken when I replaced the valve cover gasket. The half to the right is original. Since this issue didn't happen then, just happened at the cleaning, perhaps I "cleaned" off some crud that was sealing the system. I'll try looking closer.

Tagging in here since my new symptom is the same. and this thread seems to be current. I recently tried cleaning up all the oil/crud in the area below using Gunk engine cleaner. I went through the process twice. After this I have this same dying issue. For the most part it dyes if I completely take my foot off the throttle. A scenario that is pretty repeatable is to come out of the local grocery, start up fine, start across the lot a bit and take my foot off the pedal and it will die. Only the area pictured was included in this cleaning. What is in this area or below it that got messed up? Is the CPS in this area?

Great! I didn't use the right word soup in my search

Was able to read the ABS Blink Codes, said 3 of 4 wheel speed sensors were complaining. Since I have a hard time believing 3 sensors just went bad simultaneously after working for 28 years, I opted for resetting the ABS codes (found a way to do this without a meter as well). Also added some break fluid since it was setting just on the MIN mark and my son said the Brake light was coming on just when taking a long left turn. Went on a 20 minute test drive, which included a visit to a vacant lot and getting in a bunch of long left turns, and slamming the breaks enough to get ABS to engage at least once, and so far, , no Brake or ABS lights. I'll believe it is fixed after some time passes, but good for the first few minutes at least.

Thanks for the Dorman number just in case. I did try to find it from RockAuto, but could not. Maybe will have better luck with the number if Napa falls through.

Got a a call from the local Napa, the reason it got cancelled last time, and the reason they could not fill it as ordered this time was because the only place that had it was in Colorado and the website could not handle the order, because there was a shipping charge to add. Perhaps if I had selected ship to me in the first place rather than pick up in store the order would have worked. Solution was that I had it cancelled again, and stopped in the brink n mortar store and they could process it. It did add $10, which was not optimal but given it might be the only one left in the US, I decided I could cough up the freight charge this time. Of course, until I see it in the flesh I won't be 100% confident the 3rd time was really the charm. To be continued....

I'll play the game then, just ordered it again....

Arg, Easy come easy go. My order at Napa was cancelled. No reason given but I would assume the only reason they would cancel an order is because they don't actually have it.

Well other than the rubber at the valve cover possibly falling in and forcing me to pull the cover to get it, the risk does seem to be low since Napa sells the hose end to end for $15. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE7151365

Well, I tried to take that off and clean it out, but the connection at the other end, into the intake I think, was very stuck and after a while I stopped trying for fear that the recoil from pulling hard enough to get it off was surely going to break the plastic hose. Perhaps I need to try again...

So in another post I noted replacing the plastic hose assembly to the left. I am now wondering why there is so much oil crud built up in the areas circled? Doesn't seem like oil should be over in those areas. I found a possibly related post here, but I don't know it applies. My engine seems to be running fine, I don't hear ticking, the biggest problem I have that I know of anyway is oil leaks below that I plan to work on in the future. I found a post on another forum noting "oil squirting issues". I don't think I want to take off my newly re-gasket-ed valve cover to see if this is happening, I really don't want to invent work to do, I have enough things I know I need to do! Here is a snapshot from that forum link that was interesting, but I was not able to find the MADXJ info or even the MADXJ site. So any commented on the original point here, the accumulated crud? Thanks!

Looking for "all sales final at this location" doesn't work anymore on the web because it looks like they have removed the stores that are/were closing, perhaps they have now closed. I didn't score as well as @strictlyxjs, but I did get a water pump for under $10 and a bit of oil and antifreeze at big discount so I can't complain .

I was able to find on Toyota Nation how to read the ABS codes by putting a jumper across pins on the diagnostic port and watching the ABS dash light blink, and also how to reset ABS codes with that same jumper to see if any thing done is successful. So I can start there without a meter. Now if I can dig up some other secret method to cycle the ABS to bleed it, I'll be a step closer.