AnotherOldJeepGuy

@fiatslug87, the part within the blue square in the pic below moved to the right (as orientated in the picture, which is movement away from the engine) when I cranked up the RPM. That looks to me like something more like a shaft that a diaphragm, but, it did move and I didn't see anything else moving. Is this the movement I should be witnessing to pass the Valve Opening Test? If the answer to that question is "Yes", then is this the same thing I should try to move manually when idling to do the Valve Closing Test?

Yeah, I was hoping to make some improvement here

I do have a part that looks like what is identified as EGR valve in Figure 48 in the second post. I have not tested it. I'll read the instructions a few more times and see if I can make any headway on testing it. I don't have a tachometer, so I'll have to take a wild guess of hitting the 1500 RPM step, and I don't have any kind of vacuum gauge, but I should at least be able to the steps that don't require that piece of equipment. On to fix attempt number, hmm, I think I lost count....

Old O2 sensor out, new O2 sensor in. Stalls exactly the same. Is this another one of those cases where the computer needs to relearn, or is the effect of the new sensor instant?

Got the new O2 Sensor today from Rock Auto. Step 4 has some conditional stuff in there about M18 v M12 sensors and whether or not a "flange" exists. Given the specs, the Thread Diameter of the one I got is 18mm, can I assume that would make it a M18 sensor? I don't see anything in the description that would help me know if there is a "flange" or not. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1644114&cc=1181720&pt=5132&jsn=3

Agreed. Late last night I had a memory cell come back on so I looked it up this morning. That memory was from quite a while back, and the cruise has not worked since quite a while back. The memory was from a service done, recommended by a mechanic, that once looked up, was "tighten steering column" and was done in 2008. Back in those days way before the relatively recent retirement I did less of the repairs myself and took fewer road trips (which is essentially the only time I use cruise) since 3 kids would not really fit in the cab at the same time. It is entirely possible that recommended service included severing that wire, and I can easily see that by the time I had the opportunity to use it again enough time had passed that I may not have made the connection, pun intended. In either case, the wire is open now, and its a bit late to take it back to that shop and call them on it.

So it sounds like if I could identify the accessible wire under the dash, I could just connect that point to the loose end at the control arm, and verify the cruse control functionally before attempting the more difficult fishing expedition for a more cosmetic fix. For that matter, if that makes cruse functional, I could just secure that connection outside the column and call it a day, it would not be the only thing less than visually attractive in the cab..

Ah OK. Well I would assume I do since the cruse control used to work.

At the moment all I am sure of are the same 2 bullets but with the input from @pizzaman09 I feel like my amount of sure about my guess on the wire is stronger.

Now if I could only reach the other end!

For the moment I only know two things about the cruise control that did at one time work: 1. Cruise doesn't work. 2. There appears to be a broken wire that may or may not have anything to do with this problem. FWIW, the other functions of the control do still work, so that would seem to suggest the one thing that doesn't work might be due to the one thing I can see that is presumably broken (I'll assume a disconnected wires is not per spec). If I could see/reach the other end of the broken wire I would try reconnecting it, but I can only see the piece in the pic. But since I have multiple other more pressing issues, I'll keep this one on the back burner, and be a fly on the wall to this thread for the time being.

@knever3, please post how your repair works out. My factory cruise control has been replaced with my right foot for quite a few years now, I would not mind getting the original back!

I found a couple, neither the one I saw before, so I'll tack them on here for future reference for me or anyone else looking.. This one is not 100% inclusive, but it's probably good enough. This one is useful overall, but doesn't specifically cover replacing the HK7

Thanks but that's not it. If I ever find it again I'll both bookmark it and post it here.

Somewhere here there is a post, that includes a youtube link of a guy replacing the Fuel Regulator snap in connector. But a bunch of searches later, I cannot find that post, or any youtube post that has a video of doing this for that matter . I would prefer doing this right the first time, so if you happen to know where that post is, or any video doing this, please provide a link! Thanks!

Ah this pic shows that you don't need to take the fan off, you only have to get to the top|!. Much better!

It was a tiny amount of dielectric grease, in the neighborhood of a large teardrop on each side, but I hear what you are saying. I tightened the belt this morning pretty snug and it got worse, then I backed it off just a hair and it stopped (for now). When I do get to replacing it, I think I need to see if the local parts store loaner tools include something to identify the proper belt tension. I looked over the area in expectation of putting on a new belt, and it looks like the same bolts are all you need to loosen to get the slack for a new belt. Getting it over the fan seems like the hard part, is it necessary to remove the primary fan to put on the belt?

Interesting looking gadget. I looked at the website but didn't see any how-to-use info. Anyway, could this be a case of "If it was a snake it would have bit me"?! It does seem my belt probably could be tighter. I can push down (using my existing belt tension check tool) just above the pulley in front of the water pump to it touching the belt as it crosses that pulley. That distance is about a 3/4" depression and it did not take much force to get it there. I am guessing that might be a bit too loose! About how far at the same point should I easily be able to depress the belt?

Yeah that's on the ever growing to-do list, was looking for a quick short term solution. No squeaking at the moment....

I was able to put eyes on all 6, so making progress and none are missing, so that's good.

Well I sure could not see that many! It could be that all the crud buildup is hiding some, or could also be missing. I need to put some engine cleaner to work in the area and see if any emerge. Did not think about removing the air box, that sounds helpful. My arms may have some of the same attributes but I think the top approach might work better for me. I'll put this new info to the test and see what I see. Is there anything outer than size I would need to match if I need to replace missing pieces? Thanks

I drove up on my ramps and looked underneath, and besides the two circled in the pick below that I already got from the top, I could see only two more that I did not get from the top, but there were some obstacles to look around. Is 2 additional not including the ends bolts (circled in blue below) the correct number or are there more down there I just could not see past the obstructions? It did look to me that one might be able to get these from the top, if one had x-ray vision and could see from the top where to aim the socket! Or if one had a helper that could look from underneath and direct one, but I am not sure I'd ever manage to make contact from the top working by myself! But with some time and most likely a few choice comments along the way I might be able to get to them from underneath. Although I did spray water today while it was ramped up so that I could see that I was spraying in the right place, and no rpm change, so maybe the bottom ones are not loose anyway.

Great! These are not outrageous, but they are not exactly cheap either

I looked at Rock Auto for the O2 Sensor. and I see the information below. This forum conversation seems to be talking about a single sensor, is there more than one I need to replace in my quest to" stop the stall"?