Eagle_SX4

MTS sells new MJ specific fuel tank sending units. https://www.mtscompany.com/sendingunits.htm The bare sending unit is part number JPSU-7. You would need to modify the pump mount but the sending unit does work. I have one in my truck

Thinking more about my problem I think I may have figured out what is happening. The 91-95 high output fuel injection system uses 2 relays to function. The auto shut down relay and fuel pump relay. Both those relays are triggered by the ignition switch. While the engine is running and the key is on the relays close the circuit for the computer and fuel pump giving them battery voltage. So if you have a relay that was powered on by 12 volts but then only has 3 volts it is still enough to keep the relay triggered and full voltage going to the computer and the fuel pump. Making the engine continue to run after the key is off. My theory is that the alternators have both failed and back fed enough voltage on the ignition circut to keep those 2 relays open. Guess I will find out when the new alternator gets here.

Got the "new" alternator tested today and if failed all the tests. So another one is on the way. Luckily the parts store is honoring the warranty and another one is coming but won't be here till next Wednesday. I will update when the new one comes in.

I pulled every fuse and wire out of the fuse block except the computer and it still doesn't shut off. I moved the computer to the accessories circuit but that doesn't work because it doesn't maintain voltage on that circuit while cranking meaning the computer has no voltage and won't start. The other thing is that after I shut the key off the alternator Indicator bulb illuminates and stays on while the engine is running and key off. Here is the schematic for that. T7 on the second picture is the lug that bolts the the back of the alternator. I separated those wires and ran them both back to the starter relay. Which is where the + battery cable is located. If I remove either of those wires the car shuts off just fine, but doesn't charge the battery. Any thoughts other than I got 2 bad alternators in a row?

I know that if I remove the fuse for the computer it shuts off but I haven't tried any other ones. I will try some others tonight. I will look into that because it is possible there is something else I need to remove from the eagles harness. I did already remove the carburetor/ignition computer and wire harness.

Yeah I am sure it is not dieseling. My dad's eagle diesels occasionally so I do know what that is like. I can rev it just like when the key is on. I know it has something to do with the alternator circuit. I have separated all the positive leads near the battery and pulled them off one by one to see which wire is causing the issue. The only wire that lets the key function properly is when I disconnect the alternator wire from the battery. But that is not a good solution because then the battery would die pretty quick. How would I test that? I know after the key is off I still have 3 volts on the ignition circuit that eventually fades off after about 1 minute, but not immediately.

Spoke to soon. The car still doesn't turn off with the key. It worked for the first 3 times I turned off the car after the new alternator and now it is back to how it was before. Not shutting off with the key. The only way I can get it to shut off immediately is to press the e-brake after the car is off. But if I set the e-brake before I turn off the key, the engine doesn't shut off immediately. It continues to run for about 30 seconds.

I have been trying to figure out why my car would shut off with the key. I separated all the wires going to the battery and removed them one by one and swing if the problem would fix itself. The only wire that fixed the issue once removed was the alternator wire. I also noticed that even after key was off there was still 3 volts on the ignition circuit keeping the computer powered on. While running the battery voltage was always at 14 volts so I never thought the alternator could be the problem. I finally went and had the alternator tested and it failed on the charging circuit. Luckily I had a lifetime warranty on the alternator and I swapped it out in the parking lot and now the engine turns off with the key.

Here is my haul from an '87 Limited Cherokee Clean black Cluster trim with steering column piece,black hockey stick arm rests with trim, black AMC front seatbelts, nearly complete factory electrical schematics, spare throttle body to bore out. Couldn't pass on the black and grey limited door cards in mint condition. 87 1/2 these will be much better than the carpet pouches my current door cards have.

or even better https://www.ebay.com/itm/176249722620?fits=Make%3AJeep&itmmeta=01HRAQD5PDZE9ZKP8935VWDDH3&hash=item29094d56fc:g:eWoAAOSwP2dl1Xb4&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Io0I416t%2BcuV0AqsOfvf5NfCEyymUDHI%2BnxsSGvKJpIm8zLn08Ley%2Fphh1aBH77sNObkkVeBEFNbFF%2FIcxR9odv8%2B7Xrt5DP0f%2BtYrIyLTUv0pdwjmUMuwqMzQr6YeJw0AKOh2A50QXkTwsw9HQ6mAKVIhhWB3u9soiZ00illWyZHIdL9l4rBXwKO1hJbo2QMv%2BxviRmzQ5J5HD5NYI0%2FvF19LfyX%2FAXTofifi3xXyR8J7CSxsjM0DLt5I5yGqf9zsA583jeqSC6x8aNAvSotUtYlgZeSRaaq0yAtwLIvwq|tkp%3ABFBM1tu018Jj

This would be going in my Eagle which has an XJ tank in it. (see first post)

Doing some more research on this topic. I found out Jeep started using turbine style pumps for the Cherokees in 94. I was planning on buying a sending unit assembly for the 94-95 Cherokee as it has the turbine style pump and most importantly there would be no modifications necessary. I can't find one for sale anywhere. MTS only makes ones up to 93 but not the 94-95 one. Other than Junkyards does anyone know of a source for this hanger? The 94-95 Bosch pumps (#69544) seem to be available and spec'd for the 4.0 high output. Also a much better replacement than the roller vane pumps. The YJ wrangler used this pump from 91-95 for both the 2.5 and 4.0 liters. The Cherokees only used it from 94-early 96 before they switched to plastic tanks. Crown Automotive makes one for the 96 Cherokee. Part# 5003869AA. The problem with that one is it has an integrated Fuel Pressure Regulator and a different plug. This is a picture of the Crown part

Last weekend I picked up 5 TJ canyon rims. They need new tires, but at $75 for the set I couldn't pass up the deal. 4 of the tires are 10 years old and severely cracked. The spare still has the original tire from 2002.

Here is the tear down of the engine video was posted 2 weeks ago. Crazy how well it survived.

My dad has an 89 Chevy k2500 and it also has the Saginaw steering column but the circuit for the intermittent wipers is different. The Chevy has all the intermittent circuits in the wiper motor housing and not as a separate box. The switch might fit inside the column but the circuits are not the same.

That one does look different than the 12009's I have. Both of them get stuck sometimes at about .6 volts and it won't go into closed loop. Sometimes they seem to work fine. Cycling between .9 and 4.9. I think my issue might be with my injectors though because my ST value is usually about 0-30 and faults rich when they bounce off of 0.

Has anyone tried a GM 3 wire oxygen sensor? I am trying to track down an O2 sensor issue and found that not many people have had luck with the new sensors. I started looking on Rock Auto for a GM vehicle with a 3 wire O2 sensor and found that from 92-94 the 4.3 V6 used a 3 wire sensor with a male weather pack connecter on it. Bosch #13077 or NTK #21003. They are much cheaper than the jeep ones and was wondering if I swapped the connector would it work?

This is the write up I did on puting TJ shafts into the CAD housing. With the later shafts you also get the larger u-joints

According to Novak's website that one should be a 21 spline input shaft which is not what you want you will want something with 23 splines. Here is Novak's write up on NP231 input shafts. https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np-nvg-input-gears/

Yes it would have been easier to drill it on the work bench. By the time I realized the clocking was different the transmission was already in the truck and I didn't want to take it out again. I have a 242 in my truck. It fit nicely once I redrilled the transmission for the proper clocking angle. If the 242 is larger than the 241 you should not have to modify the body at all as long as the transfer case is clocked correctly.

If you do get an AX15 drilled for a wrangler you will need to redrill for the Cherokee/Comanche transfer case clocking. The transfer case will not bolt up to it unless you cut or severely bash the floor. The problem then becomes you might need to make new seat brackets or find different seats. My truck had an AX15 in it when I bought it. But someone put the wrong fluid in and it ate the synchros. I managed to buy a second one for cheap and rebuilt it. Only after I swapped the freshly rebuilt one in did I realize it had come out of a wrangler. The transfer case would not line up with the holes drilled in the output flange. I ended up drilling the new holes in the transmission with it under the truck. It was not fun.

Advance adapters sells a brand new bellhousing for the AX15. It comes with lots of parts. https://www.advanceadapters.com/4894 They also offer a conversion kit for internal to external as well. https://www.advanceadapters.com/4993 I got my braided clutch line from them and it works great. Don't get the braided line from Rock Auto it is not long enough. Here is a list of parts I used to connect the 91-95 master cylinder to the external slave. HOSE-60 STAINLESS -3 FITTING SKU: 716130-60 https://www.advanceadapters.com/hose-60-stainless-3-fitting It is a 60 inch -3 AN line and they sell adapters separately to connect to what ever master/slave combo you have. These are the adapters I used. FITTING JEEP TJ MASTER CYL. SKU: 716130TJ https://www.advanceadapters.com/4560 Used on the slave cylinder FITTING- JEEP YJ MASTER CYL SKU: 716130 https://www.advanceadapters.com/5046 Used on the 91-95 master cylinder.

I have a set 2 sets of turbines. I noticed another difference is the wheel mounting flange thickness varies. Not sure how much but some are thicker than others

I also noticed an increase in pedal pressures when I swapped to an external slave cylinder. As far as I understand it is because of the location slave cylinder. With the external cylinder the pivot of the clutch fork is farther away increasing the pressure needed to disengage the clutch. With a hydraulic throw out bearing (internal slave) there is no arm for it to pivot on, resulting in a lighter pedal.

That is awesome you found and aluminum slave cylinder. I was forced to use a plastic one when I did the external swap. I used a 91-96 master cylinder. They can be found in aluminum. The reason I swapped to a later one was because I had replaced 3 brand new renix ones in a year before I thought there must be a better design. I haven't had any issues with the newer style since. There are 2 things you need to do in order for it to work. First enlarge the hole where the clutch pedal mounts. Second elongate the lower hole because the the bolt spacing is slightly narrowed compared renix years.