Spinnakerblue89

Well... I didn't want to post about it yet in the "other cool projects" part of the forum but it looks like I have something else headed my way soon, courtesy of a neighbor up the road from me... It's not exactly a done deal yet but he's been sitting on this for a long time and he's sick of it taking up space. And despite its looks, it's actually much more solid than one would imagine. New floor pans, probably a grand in New and reman parts to go with it, only two big rust holes to really be concerned about, and it doesn't start! So I'm thinking about picking this up and seeing what I can do for this '84. If the deal goes through, I apologize ahead of time to my Comanche for having to sit... but I've always wanted to tinker around with one of these things. It helps I have an '88 Ranger that gave me plenty of relatable experience. Otherwise, I've just been rearranging the shop with the new air compressor since the old one took a crapolla on me...

I have to say Jeepcables for me was a superior product over the ones I got from Ksuspension. Not because they were better cables, for all I know they're too similar to really tell the difference apart. But because the labeling and instructions are better with Jeepcables. That said, I would still do business with both no problem.

I have a Tom Woods front drive shaft in my 2003 Landrover Discover II. Here's a fun fact: Those trucks left the factory with drive shafts that were greased but had no way to grease them, no fittings, a sort of sealed part. The problem is that the front drive shaft near the front connection is situated between 2 very hot catalytic converters that overtime does quite a number to the grease that's inside the driveshaft. And eventually it starts to squeal, and once it does, it is not long before that front shaft becomes a medieval weapon, breaks free, and goes straight through either the transmission or the transfer case. Don't believe it? There are pics to prove it! So I have a Tom Woods right now in it and seems to be doing just fine!

Today I learned!

I've ordered from you a few times actually. I'm sure there will be more. I just gotta get around to putting a new floor in, and everytime I'm getting there, something else pops up.

Screw it! When are you going to 3D Print an entire Comanche truck?

As of 1 October, 2024, are you still selling the seat brackets?

I think there is a topic in one of the sub forums here that this question was brought up. It's been a while but it seemed like after the cab corners, this was the next thing. I may have read to deeply into it though.

I once made the mistake of putting Xenon bulbs in my 2004 Mustang GT fog lights...... That plastic didn't take kindly to the heat.

You aren't kidding, a friend of mine put in some LEDs on his RAM 1500 several years ago and he said the spotlight affect was the least of his problems- the intensity of the lights focusing on one spot was blinding and distracting, and after he would get out of the truck after getting home at night, the light would follow in his vision annoyingly for a few minutes after the fact. Incidentally, they didn't last very long, but I don't recall for how long either.

A while back when I was replacing the headlights on my ZJ, I read about Halogen assemblies and LED assemblies and why the differences mattered due to how the light was dispersed and patterned.

Misspoke, it happens.

I dunno, I'm just curious. Got to thinking about this with my buddy coming over tomorrow with his '96 Cherokee to put in a new headlight setup. With a KSuspension headlight harness, IPF H4 headlight assemblies, and Sylvania Silverstar Ultra- 9003/H4s, I'm liking what I see at night. I have to adjust them again for the third time because everyone thinks I'm driving with highs on at night. I have the SS ultras in by Rover and ZJ as well, been running them for years now. But I think for my '88 Ranger, I'll try branching out with some Philips CrystalVision Platinums. What are you running in your rigs? What have your experiences been like?

So, I have done this to my Comanche and I did this very same thing to my '88 Ranger, because it uses a very similar setup with a very similar switch. It seems that adding in a relay or harness with a relay takes off a lot of the load from the switch and prevents the premature failures in a lot of the cases.

I can confirm. My '89 has a busted indicator that won't shift with the gear. I can drive the truck just fine. Thing is, I don't know what my options are. I hear that the part to fix it is in a GM shift column.

Yeah my ZJ drove just fine and then suddenly it took an electronic crap. I had no warning. Far be it from me to know for sure how you can test them, as my ZJ gave me the DTC code which narrowed everything down significantly, but there has to be a way you can test that it's the CPS or IC.

I can relate. My '93 ZJ left me in the parking lot at work one night. It would crank and crank and crank, but never turn over. So, I happened to have a new ignition coil because I was able to snag a good one for a few bucks. I'm sure it helped but it still did nothing to resolve the issue. Well it was the CPS alright, I finally replaced the sensor and made sure the timing was just right, and it fired up no issue. You may be on to something with the CPS.

I had a few minor electrical issues until I fixed the grounds and added a few. I also upgraded the cables under the hood.

Welcome- In the forum you will see a dedicated sub forum to "Cruiser54's mostly Remix Tips", it will identify the common ground points that are suspect, follow the advice given there because refreshing your grounds is a must. The ground wire on the block (passenger side) can be a problem child for sure. All of them can. I if your valve cover ever leaked or there is oil on that ground point, I cannot imagine that it helps with conductivity.

I've had mine on since November of last. So far no issues here.

I about figured as much. The one on my Ranger came from an S10.

Welcome! We share the same paint color, Spinnaker Blue Metallic! Right on!

For me the biggest factor is cost. It costs less to insure, it cost a lot less to buy the vehicle outright, and because it's a reliable vehicle, maintenance isn't much of an issue either. It doesn't cost $40k to repair the vehicle, so I don't need to spend $40K on a newer, *arguably* less reliable vehicle. That's just me. But in this economy, there is little to justify paying the exorbitant prices even on used vehicles if what you got works

Hey I saw one just like this for sale in my home town. Are they rare?

I would like to know this as well because I'm in the same boat as someone else here. The PO used a random mix/match of bolts and new mirrors do not necessarily come with hardware...