Salvagedcircuit

It looks like the Rubbermaid Plastic Car Cup Holder Organizer Storage Tray 3318-20, has been officially discontinued. I tried to grab another as a spare and It's gone everywhere. I contacted the company, Pilot automotive, that acquired the Rubbermaid auto rights and they told me it's discontinued.

All the LS swap owners nod in agreement

Someone on comancheclub asked about a spare grommet a while back and I can't find the post. I CADed up the Oval shaped 4.0L Engine Control Harness Rubber Grommet. It is exact. These files are free to download. I declare these files as Creative Commons CC0. Anyone can use these files for any application etc... If you are in need of this grommet, you can 3D print one using TPU. If you want to go overboard, you can make a silicone mold using this same CAD. If there is enough demand, maybe you can convince@Dzimm to print these up and list em for sale. Enjoy! XJ MJ Oval firewall boot.STL XJ MJ Oval firewall boot.STEP

Wow, what a wild post. I don't see any axles there so everything is in parts. Bonkers!

Nice. Oil coat the bottom or undercoat that lil guy and you should be good!

Ooofh. Sorry to to hear it was a pain. I havn't done it myself. Any techniques that you found worked?

Here's his video: From my searches, the back glass and gasket are completely held in by urethane glue, the same stuff used to install windshields. I can imagine a series of plastic pry tools and painters putty knives will let you remove the gasket relatively easily. Once the gasket is off, he used 1/16in stainless braided cable, the same as the parking break cable. You can also just purchase 1/16in garage door wire from any hardware store, it's the same thing. Kody used a torch and a screwdriver to melt a hole in the urethane. A soldering iron would likely work the same. Don't forget a glove so you don't kill your hands. Good luck!

Actually, Kody kilmer on facebook did a video on how to remove the back glass let me find it.

That back glass is definitely a nice have. Too bad it's a process to remove correctly.

Updated! If you have the parts in my first post, let me know!

So, what you are saying is, the best thing to grab off a scrap comanche, is the entire comanche. Got it.

Thanks @schardein for the incredibly detailed and thorough response Also, thanks for the mcmastercarr link @GonzoTheGreat I plan on grabbing my set of taps and trying to recover the threads in the doors. If they are non recoverable, I'll drill the next size up and retap. I'm planning on using slightly longer sheet metal screws as the PO broke some of the plastic studs where the lower dash mounts. Edit: The door handle screws are M4-0.70 x16mm in length with an oval head profile. Thanks again!

The PO butchered the interior of my comanche and I have found a mixture of drywall screws, self tapping screws, sheet metal screws, zippies and machine screws holding together my lower dash and door handles. What are the stock screws used on the comanche lower dash and the door handles? My synopsis: The three screws retaining the lower dash, just below the steering wheel fasten into sheet metal and are probably machine screws. Possibly 8-32 Phillips Oval Head Screws? The remaining screws on the lower dash are probably self tapping #6 Oval Head Screws as they fasten into plastic studs (some of mine are cracked off). The screw below the ash tray is likely a machine screw. I am not sure about the door handles. It seems the AMC engineers really liked oval head philips as I cannot find those locally at all and I'm sure the OP was not inclined to seek them out. My interior is currently a medley of screws that is for sure. Thanks!

Neat! It's called the Roper Whitney Jr No. # 5. It comes in a kit up to 9/32. It comes in a nice plastic box. I purchased a new old stock one last christmas for my brother. Worth every penny of that $60. Roper also makes a larger hand punch, the XX, that goes up to 17/32. Both are still made in the states today, they just come in a plastic boxs instead of a metal ones. I have both and my brother uses them all the time to make head gaskets for older small engines.

You sir are awesome. Thanks a ton! I plan on using the 9/32 in punch on my roper whitney hand punch. It is an incredible handy tool for projects like these and gasket making. Thanks for everyone who chimed in and provided feedback. It helps tremendously.

I was thinking of putting an x-acto knife blade in the thread insert and putting the door card on. then looking at where the mark is and using a hole punch to make a proper hole.

Unfortunately, there was no designation on the back of my door cards. I covered the back of my door cards in neoprene, similar to how newer XJ's had the neoprene moisture barrier.

Do you know the height? It looks like the hole is directly on the centerline of the door handle pocket Thanks!

I'm adding hockey stick handles to a base model comanche with a door pull door. I was able to find the door insert for the handle, but now comes the dreaded hole cut. If anyone has a door card with a punch out for the hockey stick handle nearby, can you send me measurements where that 3rd hole is? I am interested in two lengths, shown in black and white. Thanks a ton!

Find one on the east coast with little rust is like winning the lotto! I luckily found a low rust one that was just moved to Massachusetts, but even so, I still had to replace the driver and passenger floor boards. Good luck with your restoration!

I don't think these have bee duplicated by phoenix graphics or @boxyjeep yet. I hope these landed in good hands

You have a message good sir

That's very possible. I somehow had (3) long torx t50 bolts and 3 shorter ones. I need to find a longer t50 from a junkyard or ebay now. Thanks Edit: In case anyone was wondering, the seatbelt bolt torque is likely 32 ft-lbs. Page 675 of the 97XJ "Lubrication and Maintenance" service manual

On another picturesque night of wrenching, I found beside me torx bolts of every shape and size. Does anyone know which size bolt is correct for the comanche seat belts? I attached a photo of the 88-90 parts diagram. There's supposed to be a washer (J400 7315) and a #10 bolt (J400 5507) on the top seat belt mount point and a #10 bolt (J400 5507) on the bottom most mount point. I believe the previous owner used a spare bolt from a cherokee or another amc or gm product at the time In my hand I have two torx T50 bolts, one shorter with a wider diameter shoulder and one longer with a smaller diameter shoulder. I believe the longer one is the correct bolt. The longer one is labeled as "1.87in Long" in the parts diagram which checks out with the measurements from my hand. The previous owner mixed and matched seat belt mechanisms and the shorter bolts simply will not grab enough into the bottom seat belt mount point. Thanks! These part diagrams are pulled from page 1192 of the 1988-to-1990-parts-catalog pdf: https://cdn.xjjeeps.com/pdf/en-us/1988-to-1990-parts-catalog.pdf