jimmy21669

Me too...

How do you guys find these so cheap?

You will brake front axle components on a fully locked Dana 30.

You can use either. I prefer the non-disco D30.

Exhaust Manifold crack?

You can use the AX15 and 231 found behind any 4.0 HO. They will all be 23 spline, as is yours. The T-cases were not clocked differently on XJ's and MJ's. The YJ's were clocked up, and it is the tranny output housing that is clocked, not the t-case. The SYE is for eliminating driveline vibrations due to high system angles, allowing the use of a double cardan shaft in the rear. This would require you to have a rear driveshaft made. Not worth the additional cost for a street machine. Hope this helps.

I did the 4WD conversion on my 2.5. You will need an AX4 or 5 that mates to a transfer case and cannot use your current tranny.

Ah yes, the mighty Gremlin!

No problem, and check out the links in my sig....

4.0 5 speed is more than likely 3:07.

How far out of Ohio is this place?

It is a Dana 30. If your rear is 3:55 and you are doing a 4wd conversion, it looks in good shape, and is worth the price. You may need to turn the rotors, but other that that, it looks plug and play.

Cocy, I live in Lorain if you need any help....I have some fab skills and a welder....

Agreed, it is cheaper to just pick up another axle with the right gears, and upgrade at the same time. From 3:07 to 3:55 will put some pep in your step if you are keeping stock tires. A 3:55 MJ axle should be easy to find, but better yet, if you have the means to move the perches, there is an OVER abundance of 3:55 XJ axles out there in 4.0 automatics. Then you can get the 8.25. My local JY sells them for $85. Regearing can cost $400 just to do it yourself, let alone if you have someone else do it.

Yes.

Unless your front axle was replaced with a non-CAD axle.

Jim: I'd like it also. I'll PM you with my email Thanks! You got it.

Send me your email address and I will send you the FSM for 1984-1993 MJ/XJ ( I know MJ went only to 92, but the FSM applies to both) Has every diagram you will need, but is too big to post here. Anyone else want it, I can send it too...I have it in .PDF format. Thanks Jim BTW...I have to split it and send it as winrar files due to its size (28MB).

I like that idea....

My best advice is to pressure wash everything and then WATCH for where the leak comes from. Things known to leak.... 1) Valve cover gasket 2) Rear main 3) Oil filter o-ring 4) oil sending unit 5) Blow-by Chasing it can be a chore and it is better to find the source. On my 96 XJ, oil was leaking THROUGH the pan due to corrosion and I had to replace the pan itself. In my experience, it LOOKS like the rear main, but again, I recommend cleaning and monitoring.

It's there....

I don't think they go to anything....

My 3 jeeps, all were wired different. My wife's radio stays on if the headlights are on....lol

AT for that app.

He stated it is missing. I like that dual cross member setup...quite inventive.