oleskool

Decided to deal with the sliding rear glass. Purchased this latch on eBay and glued it in place. So far so good.

The harbor freight trans jack is definitely worth the money. It made life much easier. While the trans was out I decided to start the interior repaint. Got the mini console and lower dash panel coated along with the grab handle. The rest will come out and be painted in a few weeks.

Been doing a lot with little time to document everything. First thing first. A month ago the throw out bearing decided to try and leave me on the side of the road. Gear jammed it home and then the fun commenced. New clutch, slave cylinder, clutch pedal bushing and trans / t case seals. Topped off with Redline MT90 fluid and fresh ATF +4. I had to modify the pilot bearing puller to top it off lol.

Been waiting, let me know @krustyballer16

Redline MTL all the way

Thanks for the input. I fully plan to go external slave but I’m in the middle of a move and need to get this thing back up and running quickly. Everything else I own has a Dana 300 or an Atlas so I separate them before dropping.

So my little truck decided to try and leave me on the side of the road today. It’s an AX15 internal slave. The slave started leaking. Luckily I can gear jam and got it home. I'm no stranger to clutch installs but I typically separate the t case from the trans. What’s the preferred method for dropping the t case and trans. All in one or one at a time? Any tips and tricks are gladly appreciated.

Well with my dad in and out of surgery I haven’t had a lot of time to work on the ole truck. Took a little bit of time this weekend to install outer window seals since the drivers side was roasted. Also cleaned up a couple jeeps and finally got to use the foam cannon I picked up lol.

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/fog-lamp-switch Found these available locally, I was planning on using them.

Well driving home from work and the brake pedal got tight as normal. Felt a strange click in the pedal and then she keeps falling to the floor Limped her home and checked the master cylinder. All levels were good. Decided to run it around the neighborhood with the window down. Picked up a strange noise coming from the driver rear. Pulled it back up to the garage and pulled the tire/drum. Look what fell out Brake adjuster along with a couple other brackets come tumbling out lol. The only thing I can figure out is that this was a drum I rebuilt one night in July when I redid all the brakes. It was late and may have not adjusted out the slack in the adjuster / shoes. I’m guessing it finally popped loose allowing the spring to lose tension etc. put it all back together, adjusted the shoes properly this time and it’s good as new. Fingers crossed it was human error.

Killed a little time waiting on snow to melt this morning and decided to fix the door catch on the drivers side. Tired of getting hit when I’m on a hill etc lol. Pretty straight forward. Had to remove the door panel and speaker to gain access. you can see the PO used a cap screw to hold the arm on lol. 2 10mm nuts and she was ready to come out. Hit the first nut with a ratchet and noticed it wasn’t doing a damn thing. Stick my arm in there and found out why. The assembly was in 3pcs haha. that’s how it came out of the truck after screwing around with it a few minutes. Went to put the new one in and quickly learned the China crap was slightly bent making it a little tricky for the studs to line up with the holes. Finessed those into place and lightly put the 10mm nuts back on. After that I installed a new door pin. Much easier if the catch is loose. after using a long lunch to seat the pin. Boom she was ready to put back together. Good as new!

Well I finally put in the oil filler gasket I made. The old one was so stiff that it allowed the cap to move up and down by a 1/8”. This viton gasket I made fits snug. Fingers crossed it seals tightly in the long term. So far so good though.

Decided to install the Jeep Cables headlight switch relay wiring harness upgrade. Pretty straight forward and as always top notch quality. Took about 1hr installing with the removal and installation of the grill and headlights.

I’ll update you on my fix. I cut the seal tonight. I’ll install it tomorrow and clean the cover hood to see how it functions.

There is the part number to search for a new cap and seal. I’ve had to double the thickness of the seal to make it seat correctly. That’s why I have the viton 1/8” sheet.

I also finally got material in for the oil filler cap seal. Purchased 1/8” sheet of rubber sheet of Viton. Now I’m just waiting for the gasket cutter to show up. Hopefully this keep the most of oil from showing up in the valve cover from the loose gasket from the factory.

Decided to throw the new hood seal in this afternoon when I had a few minutes. Quick and easy. The old one was falling apart as I was pulling it out. Somce I was working I figured I would cyst the paint a little from where the PO used undercoating to paint the truck. Didn’t turn out to bad.

Well more goodies have showed up or will be showing up for the truck. I have several cans of SEM Shadow Blue with plastic and vinyl prep / cleaner soap. My plan is to coat all the interior pieces from the sun fade and refresh them. SMS headliner should be delivered in a few weeks so I will knock out all the interior painting and headliner swap at once. I have a new hood seal that needs to be installed to keep water from running down the firewall. I remedied the problem for now by building a barricade on the driver's side to keep water from getting to the firewall fuse box connector. Seems to work great but I still want to fix it properly. Top priority on the list is replacing the clutch master cylinder that is starting to leak a little on the floor board / fuse box. With the holidays its been hard finding time but I will try to knock it out this weekend I am also tracking down OE style switches. I have found alot of interesting options, I run nice carling rocker switches in my JK for lockers, etc but I do not really want that in this truck. I found some Eaton switches that are exact matches except for the wire terminals on the back and they do not have the small light when power is on. I then stumbled on some duralast switches from Autozone that are 100% OE matches. These are $41 each but I may give them a try to see how they look and feel. I am trying to keep the OE feel on this truck as much as possible With that said, lots of pic and time spent wrenching is in my future haha.

All have been checked and verified but for a disclaimer the truck has been running perfect for days with no cold start up issues what so ever haha. I need it to have the issue again sadly to re-measure all the sensors with a voltmeter to better understand what is happening. Right now everything checks out 100% good

Checked the IAT again this morning. It was a brisk 70 degrees here in upstate SC I measured the IAT sensor and got 3401 ohms. According the the chart I should be at 3400 ohms. Since my issue is at start up after sitting all night I think this isn’t the culprit. I also measured the ground resistance this morning on the TPS and got .9 ohms. It’s muggy outside but it’s staying around a similar value. I haven’t read the percent error of my particular meter but it would be enough to fluctuate ~.15 ohms I’m guessing based on the calibrated units I have at work and their percent errors. after checking sensors and grounds I tried to crank the truck and it fired right up like normal. It rained last night as well so if moisture is the issue it should have showed it’s head again this morning I haven’t got to the CTS yet, headed out for a New Years Day lunch so my better half is trying to keep me clean lol. I’ll check it later today too.

I’ll check that too. I measured resistance again tonight while I was under the hood. I get 1.1 ohms. So a noticeable drop in resistance. I'm guessing I need to dig out the crimps on the ground wires and eliminate them.

Quick interpolation. Intake was roughly 90 degrees from driving it today. Here is what I got. Measured around 1980 ohms and that interpolates to 93 degrees. I’ll check it cold in the morning too.

Yes sir. I’ve done most of your mods. The only connector I haven’t been to yet is the Computer. The only ground I haven’t touched is the dash ground. I haven’t spliced the blower motor ground yet either. Every connector I could get to has been cleaned, brushed and packed with dielectric grease. It’s a super odd issue. I’ve had to troubleshoot a lot of electrical with my CJs but this one is throwing me for a loop. The fact it runs great rain or shine except for mornings when it wants to throw this issue up confuses me. I would understand if it was a rain / humidity issue or cold etc. drove it in the rain all day yesterday just fine. No issues what do ever. I have not done step 6 yet. That’s next on the list just to eliminate grounding issues that are intermittent.

Well since I’m troubleshooting a random rough running issue and I was under the hood checking grounds I figured I might as well address the little Ted heat switch vacuum and my charcoal canister. The red vac line is in pieces and I didn’t want to cause anymore damage so I did a little redneck fix on it just to get me through the winter. If I change dashes out next spring I’ll deal with it properly or just eliminate the circuit. We shall see. For the canister I have been smelling fuel like crazy. With everything else I’ve been working on it hasn’t been on the top of my list but today i decided it needed to be fixed The canister had been plugged by the PO due to the plastic intake like being broke and the tank vent line basically being non existent. Luckily I had fuel line laying around that would fit tightly inside the plastic line and then I adapted it down to the proper hose size for the canister. I also had the right fuel line size for the tank line too. Pieces it all together so hopefully the canister works! I’ve dealt with them on my CJs and I know how old canister can be when the activated charcoal isn’t good anymore. On a side note…. Do they make replacement air intake emission lines that run to the canister. I searched but didn’t find anything.

Haha. It’s the simple pleasures.