howeitsdone

No kidding lol. Unfortunately those numbers yield nothing when searching other than people in the same boat. But they're doing an out of chassis replacement and can get a micrometer on it so they never report anything. I know they would use .001 and STD together sometimes when they needed more like .0005 and that's apparent since I found a .001. I'm leaning toward the rest being STD even though they're not marked. That would make the most sense to me. Only concern is the rod bearings because I haven't found one with a size on it yet.

Well, dealer here had no clue. Other than miking the crank doesn’t seem I can order the right parts.

I’m assuming the bottom 7-digit is the P/N maybe

Thank you! I'm just having trouble identifying what sizes I have in the above photos. Only 1 had the .001 marking. I’m actually headed to the dealer now to ask them so I’ll keep you posted.

Also, this was the stamped info on the thrust washer. No indication of size.

Thanks guys. Ordering the Clevite rod bearings. Looks like the mains have no other option than Mopar. @AZJeff I clicked the product info next to the Clevite brand. So I'm assuming the X on mine might mean that. Figured it would translate maybe. Unless I'm wrong? Did yours have that too? I just don't know how to decode that bearing in the photo above.

There are so many different brands and types and for how inexpensive they are I just want to make sure I'm not buying crap. NAPA's are about $170 for Rod and Main while you can get same part numbers from Summit for under $100. Part # Referenced: 4289M 63310CPA Which honestly is sad because I always thought of NAPA as top dog, but when they price themselves out this badly it's hard to shop there. Any other part numbers folks have used that work just fine? Those are the highest price points from what I can tell. There are lots of different ones for less $$$. UPDATE: Main are .001 After HOURS of searching it appears the new Mopar part # is 83507080AB - Unfortunately no aftermarket options. @eaglescout526 Is there an updated part number for the thrust bearing or does that not have a size variation? Can only find standard sizing. Rod appear to be .001 as designated by the 'x'. Found that info on Rockauto

Westin Fey 7300 is the closest reproduction https://www.westinautomotive.com/fey-diamond-step-bumpers/1992/jeep/comanche

They look even better on the truck

Honestly, I think it's a good deal! Wish I was on that side of the country because I'd snag it. https://www.facebook.com/groups/341484192538182/permalink/6085085248178019/?sale_post_id=6085085248178019

Thought about bending a piece, but I think a stamped piece will look much nicer than what I can do. And the time saved will be well worth it. No one near me has any XJ/MJ parts for sale. I'd have to drive 7+hrs round trip to SLC. Done that twice. No thanks anymore lol. The time and gas spent will be far more than a $100 panel I'm guessing.

Sounds like a wiring and/or ground issue. I'd probably post in the help section to get more eyes

I think I'm going to ultimately end up with the LS route after hearing everyone's thoughts. For now I may do a JY 4.0 swap since I still need to replace my crank and would rather just plop something else in. Plus it's not like I can save the funds overnight. That would be nice! But I'll start collecting over the next few months. LT from TruckTech did this swap last year and I have mine modeled a bit after it. Clearly not going LQ4 but essentially the same process. That's partly why I have the "LS Simple" line or a similar thing from another company. That'll allow me to adjust the accessories as needed. Plus the LS1/LS6 or L76, etc. intake. The video series below is actually really helpful because he explains the "Whys" and "Hows" and is pretty knowledgeable on these motors. There's another video of someone doing a 4.8 & AX15 but isn't quite as polished and he bought the wrong parts at the beginning. In his latest video he tried a small launch and snapped the rear DS yoke. Clearly enough power flowing which has me excited! Since I'm Renix, I don't really have much in the way of a PDC up front so I've got plenty of room for the battery and whatever else. Will definitely keep the battery up front with a little fab. Oh and I've definitely added to that list since posting as I read through other's builds and do more research

Guess I should update. Took it for about a 1k mile trip through the desert last week then stripped her down in a couple hours on Sat morning. Lots of "chores" and finding out where the clunks and rattles are coming from in the front. Apparently I installed the reverse idler backwards and that was the cause of my engagement issue. I had a feeling that was it. Chipped the back of two teeth. I'll run it like this for now since that's the rear side and the contact points will still be good. Also going ahead and using the new 5th gear synchro from the kit and throwing on 3rd to cure the grinding. When I removed 3rd gear, my dumbass let the 3/4 hub hit the ground and crack it. So a new one will be here Friday. Can't be mad if it's my fault Will install a new oil pan gasket as I think something happened when trying to fix the RMS months ago and now it leaks in a couple spots. No biggie. The 231 won't shift into 4lo so I'll pop that open this weekend too and see what's up. Might be the plastic fork slider things. Those were kind of damaged when I swapped the input gear. Bought them but never installed. Also found oil on the top of the bell housing so I'm thinking something is up with the VCG even though I put a rubber Fel-Pro on there last year. I'll inspect once everything is back under the truck and order a new one if needed. It'll be a fun weekend!

Anyone seen these for sale yet? Need to get a driver's side and quarter panel section.

Thanks all. Sounds like strokers are moreso a thing of the past then. @Limeyjeeper for the cost of the Golen stroker it makes way more sense to go LS for only a bit more in cost. I looked at the Titan because I didn't feel I needed anything super powerful. When originally looking at the Golen I immediately thought LS instead lol @ghetdjc320 I started compiling a sheet for keeping track of research and cost. Fortunately there's only a few Novak parts that I'd even need as the bell housing adapter comes with tons of parts already. My cost is about 4k off your estimated 10k. What am I missing? Do I have the wrong Terminator? Clearly taxes and shipping excluded. Some things can certainly be scored used vs new too and I'll be looking for that. And that's my personal choice as I'm not scared of used things. There's even a local L76 intake and rail for $400 with 250 miles on it. Not opposed to swapping in an R151 1st gear. What else does Marlin do to it? I thought it was just the 1st gear swap. Everything else seems about the same. I just rebuilt mine so no sweat to work on it. Edit: Added $500 (should it be more?) for misc hoses and random stuff.

Yeah, I'm hoping he chimes in with the "Why" he feels that way. Does he need more power or did things break? Appreciate the input! Clearly with a SC you're intent was to go VERY fast

I'm at 300k miles and a PO scratched the crank @ RMS so it's gotta come out regardless to swap the crank, bearings, & rings. My thought with the stroker is that if it's already out, just replace with different parts. But if it's coming out regardless then I thought an LS might be an option. Just don't want to waste the money if I won't use it. Hoping to hear folks that stroked and have problems or why they chose that route/love it. Because it seems an LS is ideal, but something tells me I'll go swap one in and it'll be much more complicated than anticipated lol. Correct. Was more using it as a "this is the direction I want to go" in a sense. An LS with Auto trans would be more of a direct comparison, but my point is that I want/need torque. I suppose a stroker is still rev limited while a LS opens up the high-end, but if I can make ~315lbft with the stroker at like 2.5k then I'm not sure the higher RPM is needed. That's already almost 100 more than stock. Not trying to win races, just don't want to go 30mph up a hill lol. Plus I want to haul and drive on the freeway without problems. That's where I am currently.

I don't see myself building this truck to anything more-than. The ultimate goal is to have plenty of power when needed. I'm sure @neohic can attest, but living in the mountains requires a bit more torque unless you'd like to get to your destination next week. Right now I can't tow anything with it unless the route is flat essentially and I'm not in the "just re-gear" camp. For reference, my WK2 has 400lbft torque and essentially the same gearing (3.45) and I can race through the mountains with the trailer on the back. So once I reach enough torque for those purposes, I'll be good. Since the stroker aims for 340lbft I feel it's right where I need it. But is a tough decision because it's "Max the 4.0, or Start from the 5.3" Which stroker version did you do? Does it chop through the Rockies just fine or is that part of your point? Definitely plan on keeping unless something extraordinary happens. But I know I won't need any more power than a base LS. So I'm in a dilemma of will I be wasting the extra couple of thousand bucks if I swap in the LS.

I'm ready to either rebuild or swap and curious on both sides of the coin. Happy to save funds for either to do it right. Doing all the work myself so no labor markup. Stroker build: Either build one or buy one. I can get one pre-built from Titan or others for under $4,000 or build the one below (which is better) from my block for what looks to be about the same cost. I looked at THIS guy's journey, but prices have changed since 2005 unfortunately 4.7 "Medium-Buck" Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods Custom forged +0.060" bore pistons, compression height 1.380", dish volume 15cc 10.2:1 CR CompCams 68-235-4 210/218 degree camshaft Russ Pottenger ported Edelbrock 60cc aluminum cylinder head Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket 0.043" quench height Flometrics F&B 68mm billet TB Accel 30lb/hr injectors 290hp @ 5100rpm, 340lbft @ 3700rpm 5.3 LS Build: Keeping the AX15/231. I don't drive it hard and only occasionally want to wheel it. Maybe one day a 3500 or 4500 but not now. For just the swap I'm estimating around $4,500 since I don't need trans-back. Is that on par for a basic swap or am I dreaming? Clearly the motor cost will vary, but I can find them for anywhere between $600-$1,200 depending on accessories included or a lucky d.o.t.d. Initial Novak estimate is about $1,700 for various items Leaves the rest of cost for a Holley system. What am I missing? With either, I'd assume frame stiffeners are needed, or not really required for my use? A stroker is easier, but I just can't decide. Leaning toward Stroker personally due to ease.

Apparently fall is in full swing and the leaves are now falling pretty rapidly

Well, based on my spare National bearing in the garage I'd say the one on the left looks a lot like mine

Yup. You gotta drive home in a good mood 😁

Lol I can barely tell what’s even being sold. Not a single photo of the whole thing. Is the front end completely gone? I’ll pay the $1 I guess.

If he's not making them anymore let me know. I've got the supplies and made one for myself. I'm in Moab currently but can get a photo and details when I return home.