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howeitsdone

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Everything posted by howeitsdone

  1. howeitsdone
    Today was an experience for sure. Welded a section of the floor in. Before you say anything, yes I know the welds looks god awful. But I tell you it's in there for life. I've never welded a day in my life until today. Seam sealer will be my savior in this case it seems. But, hey, I don't have a giant hole in there anymore! I still have to further sand and paint. I only sprayed something down for now so it wouldn't rust overnight since I had driven a few hours to have access to a welder and ran out of time. The piece of metal is actually from a rear driver XJ panel. Fit well all things considered.
  2. howeitsdone
    Following out of curiosity. I almost wonder if the bearing or flywheel itself could cause this. What happens if you are stopped, put it in gear, and slowly let the clutch out? Does it just die like it should?
  3. howeitsdone
    You tried KSU? https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p8/Remanufactured%3A_4_Port_Upgraded_Fuel_Injectors_XJ%2FMJ.html#/
  4. howeitsdone
    Yeah, it looks like bearing/race material so I'm sure a rebuild kit is in my future. I move in two weeks so I'll put that on hold for now.
  5. howeitsdone
    That relay could be the horn. It's a tight fit in there. Easy test is turning on the key and honk lol
  6. howeitsdone
    There is a 1/4" bolt in the center of the C100 connector on the exterior side. You won't be able to see it, and it may be a work of engineering to put together something to get a socket & wrench in there, but once that's removed it will be free with some tugging. That clip is just holding the top and bottom connector together. It doesn't actually hold the interior/exterior pieces to one another. I removed the 3 bolts from my washer reservoir and set it on the brake master cyl. to make it easier. You can remove the fuse panel from the C100 interior connector by prying the tabs on each of the screw housings. Shouldn't take much. And you can remove without going through the above process if you prefer.
  7. howeitsdone
    Looking so good! Wasn't a fan of the 97+ style for these trucks at first, but I've seen a couple now, including this one, that really convince me!
  8. howeitsdone
    An easy misfire/no spark test is to remove and re-install a plug from the distributor cap or block one-by-one when running. If the performance stays the same, then that plug is good. If it does change, then you've got an issue somewhere between the spark plug and distributor usually. Else, it's something internal or fuel related. But can still help to narrow down a particular cylinder if that's your issue. Sounds like you may need a 2nd person for that since it won't stay running.
  9. howeitsdone
    Got an NP242 out of an '89 Cherokee this morning from the JY. Took it apart to find a wonderful sight on the magnet There was almost no fluid in it, but what was in it was fairly clean, so I'm guessing they drove with low fluid for a bit. Crazy because the bearings appear to be in good condition and so are all the gear teeth. I was looking like: WHERE DID THIS METAL COME FROM? lol. I could repair my floorboards with this amount of metal. Someone has been into it before, so maybe they just didn't clean the magnet... I hope... Anyway, cleaned what remained and applied some RTV to all of the mating surfaces & loctite to the bolts. Snugged them all down and I'll torque them tomorrow when the RTV has time to harden.
  10. howeitsdone
    Bookmarking this for future use.
  11. howeitsdone
    After $100 and a 2 hour round-trip I found a 21 spline. So unfortunately I won’t be doing a writeup on swapping or modifying anything. But hey, maybe I’ll be one of a handful that have ever had an AWD BA10/5
  12. howeitsdone
    Why are you torturing us?
  13. howeitsdone
    Maybe this will be way easier than anticipated then. The yokes obviously changed in later years, but if they are interchangeable with my 231 then I should be good to go. After a LOT of internet sleuthing, I managed to find this site where someone did the reverse of what I'm doing. Showing that it doesn't matter if you buy the wrong spline as long as you have the correct one to swap out. However, the 231 & 242 changed input gear sizes in '94. So I will need to locate a pre '94 to do a simple swap and not have to buy a new gear. Setting out early tomorrow to the JY to buy one I suppose.
  14. howeitsdone
    Okay, so essentially I could take a couple of items from my '88 231 and put it on any year 242 to make it work then. Just can't find info on the mounting changes so I'm assuming it was the same throughout it's life. I suppose the only way to find out is to try it since I can't find a single person that's done this swap.
  15. howeitsdone
    I sure will! Here's a thought: Did the mounting change between pre-90/91 and later? I've just read that you could swap the input shafts between the 231 and 242. If that's the case, I could get any year 242 and simply swap the 21 spline in from my 231. Am I missing something there? The only thing I can think of is the speedo cable going from analog to digital and may not work in that case.
  16. howeitsdone
    New windshield. It's like seeing in 4k. For future reference, I ordered it as a '94 windshield (cheaper) and trim fit just fine.
  17. howeitsdone
    Thanks guys. Is the mounting straightforward or do I need to modify/adapt anything if I were to find a pre '91 242? Thinking bolt pattern and shaft length specifically.
  18. howeitsdone
    That 97+ front looks sick!
  19. howeitsdone
    Thinking of cutting a bit off the top of it to get a look in there before going all-out.
  20. howeitsdone
    The floor rust is mostly de-scaled now. I just need to get a convertor and finish it off. Maybe I can just spray a black reformer on there, dunno. I'll have to make the 4 hour round-trip to my brother-in-law's to have welder access. Trying to do that next Saturday. I also picked up a Dana 30 out of a '98 from the guy who sold me the D35 last week. It's got 3.55s so I can get my 4x4 back. It'll need new UCA bushings and new BJs, but those are simple replacements. Honestly, the disassembly was 10,000x better than doing the '88. So much less stressful. And it took me maybe 30min.
  21. howeitsdone
    Time to get the floor done. Been dreading this one. Fortunately most is on the surface. Soaking in PB currently and will begin the wire brush makeover today to see where we stand. Hoping that frame rail is good enough to not have to remove...
  22. howeitsdone
    @Pete M
  23. howeitsdone
    Nah, that's...uh...factory!
  24. howeitsdone
    Update: I called on the 242 and he said it had 28 input splines. That doesn't seem right as they should be 21 or 23... Is he meaning output? I didn't want to correct him since he's there and I'm not.
  25. howeitsdone
    I'm looking to replace my NP231 with a NP242. Moving to where it snows so I want the full-time functionality. Can someone point me to what I will need? Found THIS but I'm sure the splines are different (23 vs 21) from a BA10/5. I already know I need the linkage and the shift pattern piece. Another near me, but I'll have to call for details. I looked in the master DIY thread and search but everything is for a 231. I know most go from 242 to 231. Do I have to have an AX-15 regardless? What about the output splines? Do they matter?
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