howeitsdone

I've already damaged the thread with vise-grips. That didn't seem to work though. It's an $0.83 part so not concerned with damaging it. I just don't have two 9/16"-16 nuts unfortunately or I would have tried that first. There's a stud that needs removal at the crossmember too and I tried jam-nutting it with no success. So I think I'll head to Autozone tomorrow and get an extractor. But now that I'm thinking about it I guess I could go to ACE and get two nuts to try that first since it's cheaper.

Started on the NP242 swap today. For not having stubby or ratcheting wrenches, I'd say removal went fairly smoothly....until I got to the last bolt. It seized somehow and took the stud out instead. So I managed to remove the stud and pull the TC off, but now I can't remove the bolt from the stud itself. So I'm off to the hardware store in the morning to buy something to saw it off. Not so sure a cutoff would be smart and not thinking I can fit a Sawzall under there so may need to cut by hand. Might try a stud extractor and just hold the nut with the wrench. Then I went to swap the vacuum thing for the light since I don't have a harness yet and found out they're two different depths. So I'll have to address the electrical at another time. No big deal there. Honestly, I'd have the 242 in already if it weren't for that stud.

@MiNi Beast Installed the windshield. It's my understanding the rubber trim started in '94 which was what I was hoping to have installed. The installer wouldn't do it though so he put back the old trim. There were some slight bends when put back in place, but nothing crazy. It doesn't lay flat everywhere because of this, but after a week I never paid any attention and works for me.

Makes me wonder what a Comanche could do!...

Well, guess I better start working on it again lol I've honestly been driving it around town as my daily. Almost 900mi on it since this project started. Trying to keep to a minimum though now that salt is on the ground and I haven't refreshed the underbody yet. Since moving, I haven't had anything in the garage set-up. So first thing was buying a toolbox and building a couple tables/shelves this past week. Now that I've got that completed, I can finally start turning a wrench again. I've been slowly collecting the NP242 swap parts and the last will be here tomorrow. Plus the new clutch has been sitting looking for a job. I'll try to knock those two out together. Tonight I figured I would start on the decal removal. I'll probably hit a section each day this week. Boy does that factory color look great! Crazy how it's been almost pristine for 30+ years under there.

@matquecol Amazon has on sale right now for $150 HERE. You'll still need the adapter. Autozone has it for $40 HERE. Autozone has the Chrome too for about $10 less if you want that instead. Part numbers verified from the source

It's 6.5hrs from me. Might be a little too far, but I know I'd certainly revive that thing. Would be simple to swap my 88 power into it.

Looking good! Those Alcan springs are more tempting every day. How was the ride on rough terrain?

Thanks @MiNi Beast but appears that's a 231. This is what I was looking for on the left:

Thanks, but think I'd rather get the whole thing for that price. Jeep Cherokee XJ 97-01 Transfer Case Select Shifter 242

As title states, looking for the shift gate only from a NP242 shifter. It's the right one in this pic:

If you've got some adjustability as needed, I would personally use a different clamp like below. I know it's for braided wire, but would hold significantly better than the current style clamp. You could also do a permanent crimp like the black wire you have there, but that sacrifices being serviceable without cutting. Whether your lever is from an XJ or not, most operate the same essentially. Pulls on a wire/cable that pulls on the rear cables. So as long as you've got it like you do it will work just fine.

That dually is sick!

It's awful right?? lol I was going to replace the header panel with similar year since it's actually cracked a lot of places, but I figure I'll just wait it out until I do a 97+ clip.

Made the move from Georgia to Utah this week. She held up nicely on the dolly. After packing the rear, it sat about 5" lower. Swayed like crazy due to the weight distribution. Not a fun way to drive 2,000mi for sure, but it does make a great enclosed trailer Can't wait to get everything situated so I can continue working on it.

Quadratec is one of their partners. I'm sure they'll receive stock soon. This was just announced within the last couple of hours so I doubt anyone has them yet.

The rear panels are now finally available! Key Parts said it will take a couple of days to reach retailers. https://www.keypartsonline.com/comanche-mj/

$20k price tag with $20 photos

That's what I did (Top was 1st try, Bottom was 2nd) and the bead was certainly not the best, but would've been fine. But for some reason (maybe ground or just cheap welder) it just wanted to spit the weld. I'd like to acquire one and eventually learn, but this was simply to get the floor in before I move next week and won't have access to a welder.

I didn't document much when doing this, but I swapped the D30 for one from a '98 XJ with 3.55s. Got it from the same guy as the replacement D35. Since it didn't come with rotors I replaced the knuckles with my '88 because I already had new everything for it. Next time I have to do the front brakes I will probably swap it back. I also replaced the worn LBJs with the ones I had just installed in the '88 axle as well. Other than needing an alignment, it's running well. I've been putting off the clutch until I move (I've already purchased it). Today, I had a full load from my storage unit and was in reverse to the driveway. I had to back into a curb and when the front wheels rested on the curb I gave it gas but the tranny just gave a loud bang and didn't go anywhere. Just wouldn't pull the weight. I ended up bumping it and made it fine, but hate that it happened. Hopefully it's ONLY the clutch and not something else. Drove just fine after. 4wd is a bit wonky. Doesn't seem happy. Will be a fun discovery. Side note, the RC suspension is actually not bad when under load. It's stiff for sure, but was very enjoyable on the 20min ride home. 1st "Off-Road" use

In search of the adjustment nut for the parking brake. #18 as shown here Part # 06502499

This, I didn't realize my lights worked until I removed the interior trim and realized it tilted...

I removed the grill and had great access to the petcock. YMMV

The fix for that brown wire is to inspect the ignition switch itself. Does your radio work? It should if your blower and wipers work. Then there's power being sent and may not be the switch, but possible. My initial thought was your switch is fine but since you're turning your blower on and that's causing the issue then it's voltage consistency issue between the two. Did you clean the terminals within the fuse panel? I had corrosion issues keeping my T/S from working properly. The blower, wipers, and radio worked fine, but not my signals. That connector for the blower and signals was my issue. You're getting power which is a good sign. I'm not entirely sure the cause of slow blinkers other than thinking the voltage is being interrupted somehow. Will have to see what others say.