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howeitsdone

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Everything posted by howeitsdone

  1. howeitsdone
    Heck yeah! Let the fun begin.
  2. howeitsdone
  3. howeitsdone
    WJ Brake Booster parts came in today. Check valve and boot need to be replaced. Plus I bought some line to bend my own since it didn't come with the flexible WJ lines. Otherwise got both for a great deal and will install as soon as the WK2 is done in the garage which should be sometime this weekend.
  4. howeitsdone
    Since when are Jeep mods "practical"?
  5. howeitsdone
    Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Hanson-Offroad-MJ4002-P-Rear-Bumper/dp/B009FPKRSQ Listed as just under $600 delivered I know it's got brackets, but wow. Would like to see an overland rear though.
  6. howeitsdone
    Has anyone on here done a conversion? Easy to find an axle, it's just the fender that would require a bit of time.
  7. howeitsdone
    It's a true bumper hitch where you install a ball. There isn't a receiver.
  8. howeitsdone
    Completely different. Almost everything transfer case & doors forward is identical. Transfer case back is all different except axle.
  9. howeitsdone
    Just depends. On one hand, you'll have the parts for if you find 4wd AX15 as they'll just swap over. On the other hand, if you later find one with an external then you spent all that money converting the 2wd instead. The bell housing for external slave is not cheap. I'd personally keep it internal until you've got a concrete plan. That would keep cost to a minimum at leas and keep you on the road. But you still need the x-member. DeadJeep sells for $130+ shipping I believe. So now it's a $230+ Transmission
  10. howeitsdone
    FWIW, my BA10 has 300k miles on it and performs like a dream. I wouldn't count it out just because a part needs replacing Definitely track down that leak to make sure it's coming from the slave itself and not from the line or MC. But as mentioned above you'll need the x-member (mount is already attached in photo).
  11. howeitsdone
    That trans is 2wd but sounds like you're wanting 4wd? There are a few write-ups in the DIY section: https://comancheclub.com/forum/10-mj-tech-diy-projects-and-write-ups/
  12. howeitsdone
    Most likely a typo and meant to be $16,000
  13. howeitsdone
    Bought motor mounts but looks like I'll have to return. They gave me a one piece and it looks like I need a two-piece.
  14. howeitsdone
    I drove it yesterday and found it makes this noise when the engine is bogging during coasting too. Say I'm in 4th and coasting from 35mph down to 20mph, it will start knocking then. Might be leaning more toward pilot than slave. REALLY hate that I'm going to have to drop everything again, but seems like the only solution.
  15. howeitsdone
    That’s the seal I used and it’s just fine. There is also truck topper seal at Lowes for like $10. Its the flat kind.
  16. howeitsdone
    Another day, another noise... My initial thoughts are pilot bearing or throwout. Only does this with clutch disengaged. Speed usually doesn't matter.
  17. howeitsdone
    @HtchevyiiYou certainly don't have the wind issue for sure, but can fit way more gear under/around a RTT. Pros & cons I suppose. Mine is also a LWB and that extra foot is crucial, I feel, since we don't have backseats to store anything like a fridge. For a SWB I think the RTT is ideal. I'd really like to find a way to build a rack around the topper kind of like you mentioned. There are also tons of ways to build your own RTT for WAY less than buying one.
  18. howeitsdone
    POR-15 is a great product. Your preparation will determine if it works or not. I've sprayed over old metal and the rust has seeped through over time. If you take the time to sand it all down and apply it properly then no reason it shouldn't last many years. Of course, many folks in that area will also recommend to coat with something like Fluid Film to increase protection during those rough months too.
  19. howeitsdone
    Thanks. All good on those fronts. I just ripped the mount when servicing. The vibration is purely from the motor. On the other hand. I no longer have the weird high torque issue with the TC/Trans banging around. Switching back to the 231 seemed to have solved that. Whether it's from installation process or the TC itself, I'm not sure, but it works! I have been climbing tough mountains in 1st and 2nd gear with absolutely no issues at all. I'm actually really impressed with the BA10/5 because it performs so well compared to what everyone says. It's nice when everything (except motor vibrations) works!
  20. howeitsdone
    Nice! I'll watch some tonight for sure. Interested to learn your setup. I do something similar, except mine has a shell and is far less pretty. On a trip currently and been traveling through Grand Teton National Park the last few days! Forgive the mess. On day 6...
  21. howeitsdone
    I used to operate a plasma table years ago. It’s addicting finding things to make!
  22. howeitsdone
    If you’re pulling a good vacuum then it could simply be air in your master or a bad hose unless you can spot a leak. I sometimes forget bad boosters make it hard not soft. 30+ years does weird things to these brake systems. I’ve used a vacuum bleeder, 2-man crew, and now I’ve got speed bleeders. Short of replacing the booster and master I’ve done all I can as well to fix it. Maybe someone with any further knowledge will respond tomorrow. Good luck!
  23. howeitsdone
    Typically the booster isn’t working properly anymore when this happens. I have the same issue and the booster has been determined to be at fault. It’s not building the right pressure anymore. Although, the master should never be empty and sounds like that may have been the case when you cleaned it. Not sure if that introduced some unwanted air. Plenty of write-ups on upgrading to WJ boosters that are dual diaphragm. But isn’t without some work. The rear prop-valve parts aren’t going to be found anymore, but it’s perfectly fine to remove if you’d like. Will require a prop valve at the master.
  24. howeitsdone
    Determined the vibration is from the motor. I bet I stressed the mounts just enough when lowering the trans to swap the TC out. The front of the motor shakes quite a bit and the rear is pretty stable. I can only assume it's because the trans mount provides enough support. I've also got two trans mount bolts that just spin once tightened which is most likely causing my high-torque buckling issue. The trans isn't tight enough to the mount (which needs to be replaced, but for ~$80 I might save that toward an ax15). I should have taken teflon and wrapped the bolts but only just now thought of that lol.
  25. howeitsdone
    Put the 231 in tonight and drove it around the block. I've got really bad driveline vibration now. I know the TC is good because I was using it in Nov/Dec. So I'm stumped. Probably going to ask around.
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