MJRemi

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2436712927.html

Our Porsche Cayenne had a bad coolant leak which turns out to be a very common problem but according to Porsche is not a defect. :hmm: The connections from the cooling system to the bottom of the engine are plastic and will split wide open, spilling all the coolant within a matter of minutes. The engine has to be hoisted, the starter removed, and the aluminum replacement coolant kit (remember, not a defect) installed.If the leak destroyed the starter, replace starter. Kit....................$500 Starter...............$800 Labor.................$1500 Total..................$2800 For Sale!! 2004 Porsche Cayenne S :mad:

If the 91 is behind a 5spd 4.0, then it is a AX15.

The D44 were 2 3/4" so the D35 might be a tad smaller. The 8'' should be OK but you can cut the 9'' if you want the 1" insurance. Sorry I can't be more helpful with the D35.

I think any spring shop or driveline shop in your area will have the correct u bolts. Just tell them which axle you have. Also, JEGS carries them and I got mine from Husky Spring online but mine were for D44.

I recently got such a great deal on some KYBs that I had to get them. The shocks I took off the truck were on it when I bought it a few months ago and I don't know how many miles are on them but they seemed to be in fine working condition. They are either Gabriels or Monroes but I'm out of town for a week and will confirm when I return. You can have all 4 for $20 + SH from Escondido, CA. If interested, let me know and I can post pics upon returning home if needed.

I forget which Western movie I saw that had a scene with an Indian and a cowboy sitting at the cowboys fire. The Indian said " White man build big fire. Sit far away. Indian build small fire. Sit close. Both stay warm. Although I agree, the White Man's fire is more funner.

Congratulations! See if we can get a group discount on ball caps. :brows:

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/2414043297.html

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17968 This is a great post by Hornbrod regarding the load sensor.

I spent my morning at a junk yard hoping to find a shift knob locknut. I found 3 XJs and grabbed a few pieces but nothing special. My brother said he saw another one in the next isle and I was just about done but you know we can't help but look. He is not into Jeeps and didn't know what to really look for. So I haul my cart down to the LAST XJ in the yard and it has an all black interior. I have never found all black before this day. The dash is flawless without nary a scratch. But wait! The lower dash has been bent to a 90 degree angle so some effing moron could remove "something" from underneath. Said moron also cut the door panels to get the mirrors and broke the center console to remove the auto shifter. After ranting to my brother for several minutes about the situation, I tried to remove the upper dash which was in perfect condition. I hit a wall and couldn't figure out how to remove this friggen dash. I left with the front seats, steering wheel, visors, and seat belts. I left angry at the moron and at myself. If anyone near San Diego wants the dash, it's at Ecology Auto in Oceanside and June 4th & 5th are 50% off.

Have fun with your build but on a side note, I think shelbyluv has dibs on that avatar. :dunno:

yup and 31s will not rub at all with them on there. its somewhere about a quarter to a half inch of room left at full flex i get. starter went out. so i guess thats what ill do to it today. Right now I have 225/75/15 Michilins but I want to get some 31 BFGs before summer is over.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant/ct ... 72706.html

Installed the 1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers. Now the rear wheels look "right".

:banana: Had a driveline shop install the D44 Drop shackles U bolt yoke U joint Leaf bushings Spring perches Axle U bolts Synthetic fluid, etc.

Somebody within driving distance HAS GOT to check this one out!!

I changed out the rear diff fluid with Super Tech Syn 75w90. I also trimmed down the Chevy drop shackles to fit the MJ frame but I won't know for sure until I remove the old ones. I trimmed the rubber to the same width as the bolt sleeve so hopefully that will be enough.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/ct ... 79745.html

Well, I couldn't get the original switch off. The nut just started rounding off so I cleaned the switch in place and wiggled it around a little to re-align. The brake lights come on but only with a fair amount of pressure. A light touch to the pedal will not activate the brake lights so I will swap out the switch when I install the ZJ booster. ( hacksaw the switch bolt )

I'm swapping my booster for a ZJ booster in about 4 weeks. Looking at it, I don't understand how the ZJ rod can function exactly like the MJ rod, even if cut flat. The MJ rod is a bit lower on the pedal. I'm going to cut the two rods and weld the MJ rod onto the ZJ booster so I don't change any angles or heights.

It didn't appear to be either and I cleaned the contact prongs. I just finished checking and cleaning every tail light connector and all seems OK. I will try swapping the pedal switch out for one I have on the bench from a 86. If that doesn't do it then I'm baffled because all the other lighting functions work.

I noticed my brake lights were intermittent the other night when i was backing into my driveway. They came on/off as I applied constant pressure. Now they don't come on at all. My hazards work fine and all my fuses are OK. I cleaned the contacts on the brake pedal switch but no effect. Bad switch? Loose wire? Bulbs and connectors would prevent hazards from working, right?

That's so you don't have to pull over at rest areas anymore!

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2391074093.html