Big_Mark

here's an article that I found this morning, Best Live TV Streaming Service for Cord Cutters in 2023 (cnet.com)

For sheer content to $ Value, Discovery+ is a steal, check it out. In my opinion the best streaming appliance is any Roku device. All streaming platforms seem to have a "channel" (What they call apps) on Roku, and the thing can be connected to any HDMI t.v. or monitor. Smart T.v.s are ok but can be slow, or run out of ram (important when streaming).

I'm a nerd so I have a small server in my "Nerd closet" that has a Over the Air HD antennae receiver in it, running a Plex server. Plex is cool because if you run a plex sever at home, you can store all of your music files, home videos, pictures on it then watch them over the web, or on your Roku or any "smart "device that has the Plex app. The Plex app is cool because it has a bunch of free streaming channels, AMC, PBS, etc. The Plex app is free but there is a subscription service, that unless you run the server at home (you don't have to run a server), probably isn't worth the monthly fee, however every 3-4 months there is a "lifetime Plex pass" offer for $100., which I bought. Since the over the air antennae requires the Plex pass to function, the onetime fee was well worth it. I still get my local news channels, and a bunch of other random channels over the antennae (OTA), which was all we were watching with our Comcast subscription ($127. month) so the lifetime Plex pass has paid for itself. Another bonus with the OTA and the local plex server was the other day our internet went out, but our power stayed on, so we were still able to watch TV using OTA. If you are tech savvy Plex is a great way to cut the cord. Besides Plex, I also subscribe to Disney/Hulu, Netflix, etc as shows we are interested are available, all on a Roku device. It took a minute to get used to the new way of watching but after a few weeks we got used to it around here, and I can spend that $127 a month on old Jeepy!!

What material did you use? Fleece blanket, proper headliner material, other? I have a new to me headliner without material that is in really good shape and have been thinking about reinforcing it at the velcro locations. sides (like you did) and in the location I intend to mount "the Sun" (my overhead light.)

$12,000 !? Not a good buy IMHO

Thanks for the feedback, I think that "crack" is just something in the casting. The only way to find out what the noise is to pull the case, more to follow!

roger roger

I'm replacing the chain because when I'm in 4wd, low under load there is a "rollercoaster" *Clack* *Clack* *Clack* *Clack* noise that seems to be coming from the Tcase. When I take the Jeep out of 4wd it goes away. Pretty sure it's a sloppy chain whacking the inside of the case.

Much obliged!

Thanks for the look up! Wow, the P.O. swapped out the Dana 44 for an 8.25 what a wasted effort, oh well.

Thanks Eagle, this helps me compile my "custom components" list, my guess is the transmission came from the same donor rig. So is this transferase "better" than the original or about the same? In regard to reliability, strength, etc.? There is nothing like owning a grab bag Jeep!

Sorry gang I missed your comments here, I agree this is likely a homebrew installation. I suspect they were the stock fog lights (I have the switch but no fog lights) that somebody moved into the bumper. Personally, I'm not a "put lights everywhere" kind of guy, but lights might look better than these fugly holes. Pete, if I wire them up there will def be a relay involved.

Right now ole Jeepys interior is ripped apart as I am preparing to install a rubber "carpet" new interior door skins and door speakers. I would like to replace the plastic seal/skin/film thingy while I am at it to help control road noise and seal it all up just a little bit more. So where do I get that stuff? or What is it called Google has failed me so I am turning to the knowledge pool called Comanche club!

this is one of the many reasons I call them "Jerks" lolz I'm glad (and sad?) to know I am not alone

We went to Walker Valley ORV for a new year's day run (I rode) here's the view from the top! Also I am working on on board air using my A/C pump and when I dug out the AC cutoff switch harness I found this JERK living in the end of it! Anybody else living with stink bugs? They are a new pest here in the PNW, and the get everywhere

He was definitely a great driver, soar in peace brother!

Cool video, I always wondered how the bearing fits in those kits. So, did it make any noticeable difference in driving, steering response?

this sounds like experience talking

Drain all engine fluids before pulling engine. Make sure the harnesses (wiring) are disconnected before pulling engine. make sure the motor mounts are unbolted make sure your engine stand bolts are ready to go take your time pulling the engine, if it's not moving, figure out why, don't just crank it up to see if it "gets past" the thing, find out what "the ting" is Have towels and bucket handy, it will still drip fluids even after draining them

Here's what I ended up with Glad to have the air box area cleared of a tiny bit more of ugly wires.

I pulled out the plug in the new radiator and the threads were, finer (not pipe thread), I went to Napa and dug through the fittings bin to no avail, so I ended up just buying the t-stat housing with the sensor hole in it. This is much easier to do than try to find the unicorn pipe fitting, woot!

Thanks again Ronkinn, fortunately I do have the wiring, and it's quite apparent how they work so no need for the diagram. The po wired in a switch to manually turn the fan on and off. Now that I found out why (cut/broken wire) I hope the fan works as designed now. If so I'll pull out the jumper wire/switch that I use to turn that fan on and off on demand.

Thanks for the tip rokinn!

Thanks guys, @cruiser54 nothing is wrong with the one in the radiator other than I don't want to mess up the new radiator by removing the plug and the wires going to the sending unit/switch were pinched/cut when I pulled out the air box. As I've been watching videos to determine is my sending unit/switch location is "normal" or not it seems like the Cherocars on Youtube all have the t-stat housing with the sensor in it, not in the radiator. I think I'll just keep it stock and will pull the plug out then put some plastic loom/wire protection on the wires to the sending unit/switch so they don't get cut again.