pizzaman09

I had this problem on a Suzuki Samurai where they parked at about a 45 degree angle, finished swiping up, then swiped down then went back up to 45 degrees. You have a clocking problem somewhere in the system.

I understand your pain, I typically play with 90s vintage BMWs with their plastic pressurized cooling systems. The Jeeps are practically reliable vs the BMWs. At the very least you can spend a hour disassembling to the timing cover to find out if there is an obvious drive issue, like a stretched chain or sheared key. Luckily the 4.0L is not an interference engine so it is unlikely that the valves or pistons made contact. You might try changing your oil, I've had collapsed lifters make a lot of nasty sounds that were fixed by an oil change.

Just a random picture up in the field being used to remove old barbed wire.

That's disappointing to hear. What makes you think it needs major repair? The timing chain isn't a terrible repair and the parts are fairly cheap.

Yeah, I'm actually well aware. I simply didn't have any other aerosol type things around and had the door cards fully off.

I have found similar issues with my street cars, particularly a BMW M5 where in the winter the water would freeze into and onto the rotor and then cause a zero brake situation when backing out of parking spots.

I probably should have, but I honestly justed used some WD40. We will see if I live to regret that decision.

Looks like it will be a great project! I completely agree with you on the pre 97 front end, they are just sharper and fit the Cherokee/Comanche design better. That is unless it is painted in a gloss coat of battleship grey... Get it road worthy and start having fun! Comanches are hard to come by but worth the wait!

That dash turned out amazing, I'd love to know a bit about the products and process you used for fixing the dash.

What happens when you put it in neutral and coast? I have a random thought that you might check for is a locked up front brake caliper. I've had non returning front pistons cause some pretty epic vibrations. My other thought is that you have a bad pilot bearing.

I second the idea to stay away from the drilled and slotted rotors. I put them on a few of my vehicles and find that they vibrate sometimes under braking. Power stop is the only brand of brake rotors I've found that didn't warp on my 99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight after 2 weeks of driving one them. Power Stop makes quality products for sure. On my Comanche, I was a bit disappointed in my stopping power even though feel was great and firm. I upgraded to some nice Hawk HPS pads, the more aggressive pad has really improved the stopping power.

Thanks for the reply, definitely some things to look at. I replaced the injectors a year ago with Chinese knock off 4 hole Volvo injectors, they work phenomenally. The o-rings were all new at that time. The regulator is probably original with 260k miles on it.

I've had a lot of parts ordered then find out they don't actually have it. Particularly when I'm shopping for parts for my 99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight. I had a set of control arms on that car on order for 6 months before they cancelled and said that they just were not going to make them. The worst though is finding a site that says they have something in stock to find out that they actually didn't.

The stripe graphics are particularly well done. I like it.

1990 Renix 4.0L, when I rev out the truck hard in first, second or third gear, I get the smell of raw gas for a few seconds. Does anyone have any thoughts on what it could be? Typically I'd suggest this smell occurs if I get near 4000 rpm plus.

Not metric ton but I do have a D44. The trailer in this photo has 93 tires of mostly large SUV sizes. We estimated the weight between 5-6k lbs trailer and load. We also put about 1k in the bed.

My first Comanche had the flat towing setup on it. A previous owner used it to push around airplanes. The person who bought the truck from me loved the front receiver for his farm. He even sent me a photo a year after buying the truck with the excited caption that I can't get this truck stuck, it was covered in mud and hauling a log splitter. I know this won't give you deer protection but it is a very useful setup, could be a good starting point for a custom bumper.

Just installed two new door mirrors with manual remotes such that I can move the glass! While in the doors I fixed a broken speaker wire and lubricated all of the inner door workings. I had no idea how nicely the windows could roll up and down or how easy it could be to lock and unlock the doors!

I am one of these people. I've very much overloaded my Comanche many times on both sets of alloy wheels I have with no issues as a result. I have a set of Eliminator wheels , which are quite beefy, and a set of late 90s Cherokee 5 spoke wheels.

You are welcome! Do you mind sharing the link to where you found the seals sold individually?

Precision parts sells a full door seal kit. It's available many places such as here: https://www.jegs.com/i/Precision/757/DK+6110+84/10002/-1 I believe I've seen the seal you are talking about for sale individually but I'm not immediately finding it in my quick search.

Those female connectors are just 1/4" spade connectors. Any old spade connectors will do as the OEM ones are not even sealed. The square housing ones on the Comanche seem to be pretty common in period, I've seen similar connectors on an 80s Toyota and on a 90s BMW.

What a fantastic looking truck. Your purchase story sounds like mine, the guy selling it was getting a ton of messages about it, but I was the only one who managed to find his small dealership website and call him about it.

You recently changed the manifold I see. Go and double check that all of your manifold bolts are tights.

The black plastic component you speak up, which should be forward of the ballast resistor on the fender, should be a vacuum valve that controls the EGR valve. So it doesn't have anything to do with the fuel system. The fuel system is fairly simple in these trucks. For what you are suggesting, I'd start by checking the ground for the fuel pump at the drivers side tail light and confirm your ballast resistor bypass still works.