pizzaman09

I was trying to use 3/16" rivets today and broke my old Pop brand rivet tool. I purchased the available tool at Home Depot by Arrow, and found it broke on the first rivet. I am trying to install new tailgate bumpers which use a large rivet. Does anyone have a recommendation on a high quality pop rivet tool that will actually work on big 3/16" rivets?

I ran into this when I asked a tire shop to look into why my spare was leaking. They wouldn't look at it as it was over 5 years old. I work in the rubber industry, there is no technical reason why an old tire would be bad if it's been more or less unused. Obviously look for dry rot, but generally if rubber has been kept in an area where is isn't attacked by ozone, it will be just fine. Specifically I work in helicopter elastomeric parts, think the rubber bearings that hold the blade to the rotor. The industry standard is to allow any part up to 5 years after the cure date to be installed. After that there is no calendar life for removal from aircraft, simply on condition inspection for removable criteria. Most natural rubber products like tires will stiffen as they age, a lot of this stiffness will break back down with use but the tires will be on average stiffer which is usually not helpful for grip and comfort.

You should! Having never done it before, I was able to do it in just over an hour laying on the ground on a 40 deg F day.

Cool truck! Looking forward to seeing this come together. Does it run well?

Today's project was the transfer case output seal as a continuation of my crusade against all leaks from the Jeep whether fluid or wind or vacuum. Old one was clearly leaking I found it tricky to get the old one out, ended up clamping on the flange with some vice grips and hitting the vice grips on the jaw with a hammer towards the back of the truck. Roughly like what I show in the photo below. The old seal was very worn, about 1/16" inside diameter larger compared to the new seal. The transfer case also received some fresh ATF.

I've definitely considered doing this with my CAD as I frequently use low range to backup to a trailer and it's easier on the t case to not bind it up on the concrete driveway. The transfer case linkage kit is a nice upgrade, fiddly to install but much smoother to engage.

My Comanche was used as a dealer parts truck too. Apparently the original owner of my truck sold it back to the original selling dealer after driving it for 16 years and putting 239k miles on it. The dealer decided to use it as their parts truck for 15 years putting another 10k miles on it and doing some nice maintenance like the clutch and swapping the AC to R134A. The dealer sold it to a former employee who had started his own corner car lot and he used it to tow his boat for a year. He got it painted and looking decent. I picked it up and started down the path of fixing probably 16 years of differed maintenance. I was pleased to have printed records of all work the dealer did on the truck in the 15 years they owned it.

I aware that there was an outcry over the square headlights. I personally like the grill on the YJ, it's very clean with a nice kink I. The middle for style.

I'm a big fan of the YJ as well, I think it's the sharpest of the Wrangler designs. There are some great round headlights Jeeps too, if love to have an FC or a flat fender.

The first one reminds me of the weird generation Toyota FJ55 Land cruiser. The second has a Lada Nieva look to it and the final one is very much early Range Rover. I'm not sure why anyone would want round headlights on a Jeep....

You are making me think, I wonder if I've ever tested the horn in mine, never considered using it.

Good stuff, I shall have to consider fully flushing it when it's a reasonable temperature outside.

Sounds like a project! Are you thinking of building from a new computer or fixing what's wrong with the old ones?

It will run but it will run better and a lot more efficiently with a working oxygen sensor.

Honestly it wasn't as scary as I figured it would be, I just took my time and didn't rush. Only thing I did not do was take apart the spool valve, but I did throw a bunch of brake clean through it. Additionally I pre-gamed the whole activity by tearing down and rebuilding a harbor freight brake vacuum to pull the fluid out of the tank. I could see how getting fresh fluid in the system would help, I need to flush mine yet, when I added fluid to the system a bunch of red junk came through when bleeding.

I find this funny, one of the only Jeep owners that's every given my Comanche a thumbs up was a person in a CJ. It gets tons of attention but not really from other Jeep owners unless their Jeep is vintage. I'm glad you are getting to use yours, it's a beautiful truck and will be happier if you drive it more frequently.

Replaced all of the seals in the power steering pump and the low pressure return line. All of the seals were square from compression set, one crumbled upon removal and the bearing was a bit worn feeling. There sure are many parts to one of these pumps but luckily there is a ton on info on the Saginaw pump. A significant degreasing occurred to get rid of 34 years of gunk. More or less reassembled, only challenge I faced was removing the backing plate. I wapped it with a hammer many times to loosened it from its seal then pushed the shaft from the pulley side with a small arbor press to pop it out. I highly recommend renting a power steering pump pulley puller and install tool from your local auto parts store. The process of removal and install went smoothly. I was very surprised when I got it running that the steering is smoother! It was pretty smooth to begin with and now it's silky smooth to turn. The full seal and bearing kit cost me $11 on Rock Auto. It had every seal and the bearing. It was good use of this frigid 15 degree day we are having.

Congratulations! Some fine upgrades to this truck, particularly the external slave AX-15 and NP242 transfer case.

I watched this video the other day. I'm interested to try something else out. My method of loctite rust converter then prime and paint has not exactly worked out great. I've used some phosphoric acid products at seem to have worked well.

For a strange addition to this topic, I have found that with the fog light switch on, my fog lights also stay on with the sentinel light control that leaves the headlights on for 45 seconds after turning the car ignition.

I have a Flowmaster Flow FX muffler on my truck and love it. It's quite on the road but makes a phenomenal sound at idle. Appears to be quite high quality.

In my opinion, any classic will get what someone is willing to pay, if not it will sit like you saw. Comanche's are very thin on the ground in the US, I spent 3 years looking for the one I wanted before springing for it. I didn't much care what it cost if there was minimal rust and it had the options I wanted. I ended up spending $9800 for for my more or less loaded Eliminator with 250k miles on it. It was not in as good of shape as advertised but I knew everything could be sorted as it was straight, unmodified and all broken parts were included in the sale.

I see what I did wrong, I missed an "n" my apologies! 😂

Which language? I work with many Italians and that translates to Happy New Year.

Buon Ano! Happy New Year!