pizzaman09

Glad that you made the best of an unfortunate situation. It's stories like this that makes me happy to live where I do. Your Comanche looks great, white with a black grill is one of my favorite combos.

This is very interesting, I just cadded up some of the lever trim pieces the other day, was planning to mill them out of aluminum.

Did some white chocolate covered strawberries today. Crazy delicious was the verdict.

Actually I frequently take my old Austin Healey up to valve float and then grab the next gear... For the Comanche, typically I shift all over the place, 1500 is a shortshift, 4500 is the end of the world. In the end it's driving a manual, you have the power to choose how and when you shift. I've driven my Comanche like a big rig hauling a heavy trailer, with slow deliberate shifts, on the flip side I've raced it up to speed as quick as I can banging shifts out.

I've been eyeing up the idea of making a guard for that gap for a while. Haven't put any pen to paper yet but if really like to make some rear wheel well liners.

RENIX utilizes a MAP sensor instead of a MAF. That said, vacuum leaks are not helpful to either.

I think the product you are looking for is named DeoxIT. There are a couple of different varieties so you may want to do a bit of research.

Most parts stores have rotating racks of these sorts of clips. The rivets on the seat trim are very similar to these BMW plastic rivits which are super inexpensive. I was planning to use one of these to hold the plastic trim on my seat in the refurbishment I'm doing right now. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-fender-liner-rivet-51161881149?ads_cmpid=21608260482&ads_adid=164927063021&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=715103588145&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-2338160550696&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_NC9BhCkARIsABSnSTaSTWzMcPyftG-9Os8OR32t8SbJBBeEq0Ln_TVeaV9ykPFMxomiKsYaAvW3EALw_wcB

I love it. Awesome, color, awesome drivetrain, and a heavy suspension.

Well, the connection in the bottom is easy to find. This thread has photos of the two connectors. The thin one comes from the stalk, the blocky connector goes to the cruise system. https://comancheclub.com/topic/54804-cruise-control-stalk-connector-connects-to-what-connector/

The broken end is probably in the steering column, but the other connection end is under the dash and accessible. It is challenging but one can fish the new wire down the column.

That is the wire for the cruise control.

If you get another stalk to try, just put it in under the dash to try before going through the fun process of fishing a wire down the steering column. The stall was the issue my cruise control has, it just had a worn out cruise switch.

I can't say I blame you for swapping the wheels. The gold was sharp but I remember they were basket weave style, and rose are the worst to keep clean. Yeah, BaT isn't technically any better than any other website for buying and selling cars other than you get a lot of eyes on the vehicle and people comment about what they see. It's still buying a vehicle long distance sight unseen. Hopefully sorting it out hasn't been too much trouble. My Comanche purchase wasn't much different, was supposed to be rust free and clean, it took me 5 minutes to find a softball sized hole in the drivers floor pan and a squirrel near in the air box. That said it too has cleaned up to be an amazing truck. Enjoy yours!

There is a lot of serious off road capability here.

Was this truck on Bring a Trailer? It's beautiful, I followed the auction closely.

Putting the long bed to work I see. Very nice. I love seeing Comanches used as trucks. Check also the little vacuum actuated valve right behind that, it is plastic and gets brittle with age. I actually watched mine explode when investigating cooling issues.

Those lights are wonderful.

I purchased this, works great. Only complaint is the mist function doesn't spring back all the way without a little help as it's a decently tight assembly. I assume it will wear in with use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BPHV18C?ref_=icdp_ba_mweb_mb_pd_bap_m_grid_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_aw_ya_bia_gf&clientRefMarker=pd_bap_m_grid_rp_0_1_ec_ppx_aw_ya_bia_gf&heartsTeamIdentifier=buyagain&psc=1&heartDisabled=true

Brake clean won't do much to remove silicone oil. At work we use silicon oil in some products, MEK and Acetone work well to remove it. Isopropyl alcohol doesn't touch it.

I have a hard time with these fake videos of vintage vehicles made new, they seem very prevalent. I suspect they would do a two door Gladiator first so as to not stir up the controversy of another Indian tribe name. However I would be down for Jeep to do a remake of the Comanche with a useful two door cab and decent length bed.

Just size, I replaced the missing stud and nut on mine with a grade 8, 3/8-16 bolt from the hardware store.

You could definitely stand to tighten the belt some. If I remember the adjustment is on the power steering pump.

Silicone based products like dielectric grease are a bad idea, they are extremely, extremely difficult to clean off and will definitely reduce the friction on the pulleys. That said silicone will at least not damage the belt like hydrocarbon based oils would, so from that perspective it's not the worst choice. Why not just replace the belt? I haven't priced them out but I have to imagine a serpentine belt can be had for under $20.

I did all of mine on the ground from underneath with a variety of wrenches but primarily a ratcheting box end wrench. They were not easy and I have skinny orangutan arms. I could imagine it being a reasonably easy job if you take out the air box from the top. The air box is fairly easy. Also, check to make sure all 6 are there, I was actually missing a stud completely on the back most one.