Incommando

:thumbsup:

Looks good, Jacob. Here is how far I have made it on mine: I have an 8.25 swapped in and the leafs mounted on the Barnes perches. I still have to swap the D30 in ( this is a conversion to 4wd at the same time) and do the front lift. The SOA gave me 5" of lift at the rear with 2wd springs. It looks like a little more then 5" but that is because I had previously cut out a lot of rust and added the TJ rear flares at all four corners Here is the new tire/wheel combo: Mounted on 7" wide rims these measure 32 1/8"s.

Are spare tire winches something someone wants? I was shocked to find mine still worked & lowered the factory spare to the ground with a SOA!

That bench does look good

And is that the yoke end or pinion end Pete? Looking at mine the non rubber end would be the yoke end (transmission side) thanks

Shifter & Linkage if it is there. Make sure you get the piece that attaches to the tunnel underneath the floor pan. #14 in the diagram Image Not Found

And is that the yoke end or pinion end Pete?

Http://Www.Ntwonline.com

Makes a big difference in how you mount the shocks. For example doing an SOA and flipping the stock mounts on top of the leaf springs would mean your shocks would remain pretty close to stock length. That may be great for those doing an SOA for looks on a street truck but would limit your articulation. Welding mounts lower on tube may result in a a shock that is 5-6 inches longer.

I need #14, #16, #10, #31 Image Not Found Got them locally

Got back to work on it today. Got the transfer case in and and the rear axle swapped out. No more D35! The 8.25 is in & tacked in place using the Barnes spring plates, perches, and u-bolts. I still have to weld on the lower shock mounts. rear slung under Front at stock height & rear SOA Front leveled to rear via floor jack ( long level on bed rail ) Using the factory 2wd springs and the much taller than stock Barnes spring perches I netted exactly 5" of lift with the weight on the axle. I measured from the center of the axle hub to the bottom of the flare. For reference the tires in the picture are 245/75/r16's

Tom Woods makes some dandy stuff.

Drive shafts are around $10 at the jy's around here. Buying a thinner one and having of cut is much cheaper than having one built.

All the best to both of you

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/time-beef-things-up-build-thread-sorts-540357/index7.html

Could you adapt those "armored" ones the xj guys use?

Pirate has a ton of these under their Cherokee section if you don't get what you need here

Nothing wrong with Rusty's IMHO. Those shocks are most likely just like everyone else's white-bodied shock and are made by Tenneco who also makes Rancho.

No need to limit yourself to an early version. In fact I would avoid one of the CAD era donors. Just about any XJ would work. I would find a late model with the large u-joint front and the stronger 23-spline AW4/231 as the earlier versions were 21 spline. I would also snag the 29-spline rear 8.25 axle as not only would it match the front for sure it is a strong upgrade over the D35 rear found in most MJ's. If you could find a suitable XJ with a blown motor or that had been wrecked and you could snag what you needed before scraping the rest you may not have to spend that much at all.

Simple. Find 4wd donor for front axle, drive shafts, tranny, t case, shifter. Replace 2wd auto with 4wd auto. Bolt on t-case. Bolt off beam axle front and replace with donor front axle. Connect front drive shaft. Attach shifter. Get/make appropriate length rear drive shaft. There are numerous in-depth threads here and elsewhere on the net.

I was 16. My brother had this supercharged Nova street car that would run 9's on slicks. It had a Muncie M22 4 speed with a vertigate shifter. As probably only 3 of us actually remember those shifters a vertigate is a manual transmission shifter where everything is in-line so the shifter does does not move to the side. It was faster than a standard shifter. You would pull up on this little scissor handle thing and go forward and up for 1st gear. Holding up on the finger holes and pulling straight backwards got you 2nd gear. Dropping the finger hole handle and going forward again got you 3rd and then coming straight back got you 4th. Everything was in a vertical line and that is what gave it its name. 1st/3rd and 2nd/4th where in the same place on the shifter except that the other handle kept the rails pulled up into a different position when you pulled up on it. You only had to pull back or go forward about 4" for any shift. To engage reverse you left the shifter in neutral and flipped a small rod that was shaped like a capital R that was on the rear of the shifter. The rest of the shifter had nothing to do with reverse. I had just turned 16 and only had my temps. My brother, who is 12 years older and had been known to have a drink now and then, taunted me into doing a burn-out in his Nova. I back it down the driveway and then put it in 1st. I take it up to 5,500 and dump the clutch. All hell breaks loose...noise....smoke...strange smells... and the windshield shatters. I am stunned. I look down and the top of the transmission tunnel is GONE and the firewall is ripped open. The flywheel had broken off of the crank and shot up through the car missing my right foot by about 4"s. It acted like a saw blade and ripped through the car and straight up into the air, landing in the yard. What we believe might have happened was that, although this was supposedly not possible, I had left the reverse shifter engaged. Then I put it in first but had the clutch in. When I dumped the clutch the tranny locked and sheared everything lose. It is possible that the rear of the crank broke first or that any number of things could have happened...who knows? The car had been seriously abused and should have had a blow-proof bell housing anyway. More afraid that he had just killed me than anything else I didn't even get in too much trouble even though it destroyed the engine, transmission, and the car was now junk. The body wasn't that great to begin with. He used it for street racing for money and having a ragged out sleeper that was all go with no show was common. I did buy him another 454 as a start on his new engine build.

I have always referred to that as the butt dyno. Buddy did the 5.0 injector mod on his '95 XJ. It to made a noticeable increase in throttle response. He says he did not realize an MPG increase but that could be due to the fun of the increased throttle response. He got them for off of craigslist for $15 from a Mustang guy who was going to bigger injectors. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/mustang-injectors-666038/ That looks to be what the ebay link above is offering

You are too easy. It was all my having fun. All of it. Playing with people who take themselves that seriously is a blast.

Eh, no biggee. It is the internet, as pointed out. Anyone who gets worked up in real life over something on a forum probably needs to take a few deep breaths

Is this what your diff looks like? https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/products.php?product=Dana-60-Detroit-TrueTrac