Incommando

If you get stuck in a mud hole you can remove the carpeting and place it under your tires.Nice I didn't think that the Pioneer and Chief overlapped many model years?

I guess that depends on whether you are writing or reading your post. :thumbsup:

I have posted several pics of 265/75/16 (32x11 or so) pretty well tucked into the fender wheels with factory backspacing plus 1.25" spacers and factory bumpstops. I'll add one when I get home.

Tom Wood's and BillaVista from Pirate agree. I would go with that info. At least 50% of the time the conventional wisdom that everyone just knows is right is totally wrong. Blanket statements about tilting the rear pinion up without knowing the u-joint set-up of the axle is a prime example of this.

I wore a long-sleeved T-shirt and shorts today,too. The high was 40.

They do not eat up wheel bearings anymore than changing backspacing with aftermarket wheels. The factory wheels are at 5-5.5" and most aftermarket are 3.5-4". The forces are the same whther it is changed with spacers or rim backspacing. Many many XJ,MJ,YJ,TJ,KJ, ZJ owners have used both spacers and aftermarket wheels with no problems despite having the same hub design. I put 90k miles on a lifted KJ with spacers & 31's that I wheeled as hard as my MJ with zero issues. Hubcentric is safer but keep in mind than many of those black steel wheels you see are univeral and lug centric not hub centric and are used without ill effect. The spacers are very common. If they list them for a TJ they are correct for your MJ. I got my TenAlloy at Morris 4x4 and they were about $30 cheaper then spidertrax at the time. I used 2" at the rear and 1.25" to even up the track width.

The angle of the pinion depends on your u-joints not your lift. Unless you are running a shaft with a CV joint then the pinion yoke and t-case output yoke should be parallel for the joints to work properly. You only point the pinion yoke up if you have a CV joint. People do it but it may not be right. The use of shims should be to correct changes to the yoke angle back to parralel. I don't have a link as I am on my phone but if you go to tom wood's site it explains it.

I have been hearing that "this generation" line for the last generation or two but these kids have done well in the Gulf Wars of whatever name you want to use.

Master cylindars are relatively cheap anyway even if you have to replace it. I got the booster,master, & valve in one piece and it worked great by just plumbing the lines to the XJ valve and bypassing the rear sensor valve.

You can generally get a good price on RE stuff at www.mud flaps.com. find the part # you want, go to the site, search it up. You can neat their prices sometimes on Amazon but day in and day out their prices are good.

Every year all branches of the military combined have about 180,000 "openings" for new recruits Every year about 4.1 million people turn 18. Yeah. Math.

Not to hijack the thread, but what are your thoughts on using 4 rear TJ flares of the FLAT/cutout variety on a MJ? In think that would work fine. Yeah the TJ flares are only for coverage.

I have a new version of Rusty's front trail bumper (winch under the bumper) and I can attest that it will take a licking. If the OP is just looking to cover larger wheel wells after removing rust the easiest way is 4 REAR tj flares at all four corners. A little plastic trimming and they mount right up. Why people put those tj fronts on an MJ/XJ and wind up with redundant lights and a mess at the front is something I do not understand:

I have one of their old 4x5 utility trailers. EDIT: Ooops. Not a U-haul. It has A-1 Rentals welded into the fender brace.

Someone is sniffing around honey boo boos mom,too...takes all kinds... :)

Aisen Warner was a joint venture between IIRC Toyota and Borg-Warner and they sold trannies to anyone not just one make. So you might find an Ax5,AX15, or AW4 in most anything although they may use a different name.

I could live with that mounting

:hmm: :hmm: :hmm: ......You Just Did....... :dunno: I missed that..... He has both posted a new topic and replied. Trolled.....

I am just the opposite: I have nice factory lenses and I would like something so that I don't bust these up on the trails. I could keep them in the garage in case I ever wanted to go backwards.They are getting hard to replace.

If you are signed in there is a green "button" above the right side of the big green bar that is at the head of the list of topics. it says "start new topic." Press that and away you go.... To reply to a topic press the green button that is in the same location within a thread that you have opened. It says "reply to this topic."

In your list of things that you have not replaced is the coil itself. Just a few bucks off of Rock Auto. A timing light on the coil wire will show if its pulse is erratic.

Those look good. I like those all-in-one tail lights as well.

144 b-ball teams are eligible for the NCAA tournament. 68 make it. Making that tournament is hardly an accomplishment when almost 50% of the teams do

Gateway Gumbo Monster Mudders! ( Only us old timers know them probably)

So what is the value of such a conversion? You will never recover the cost in fuel savings. I am reminded of the whole thing about more dollars then sense, to be honest. It certainly will not increase the resale value of the vehicle enough to warrant the cost. You would be light years ahead by even buying one of those over-priced stroker crate engines for power & simplicity. I guess I never have been one for the "because it can be done" argument for doing things.