Incommando

If I ever put full-widths under mine I would consider the leaf swap on the front.

thanks. That is decent pricing.

Do you have a link for these?

Hell yeah, weld a trashcan to the TB!You could buy your air filters at the hardware store.... :)

If you look at the flex in those pics you could argue that leafs are not really such a step backwards. Sometimes the location of the diff housing or things like radius arm mounts make mounting the factory coil buckets and control arm mounts difficult.

The article is recent even if the used an old pic. The H2 was on the gmt900 platform.... same as the Tahoe/Yukon. The H3 was on the gmt355 platform.... same as the Canyon/Colorado. Only the H1 was an AMGeneral design. Unless GM can come up with a better starting point than either of those used for the H2 or H3 it won't matter what it looks like. They will have no off-road chops.

Find some used Moab rims off of a TJ Rubicon. Run some 265/75r16 tires to get about 32x11 rubber. Google it up as these are not uncommon swaps onto XJ's and some MJ's on here have them as well. They are not actually chrome but they do have a silver alloy finish.

I think that the OP is referring to putting leaf springs on the front axle in place of the factory quadralink. This is not uncommon when upgrading to heavier duty axles as they are usually wider. It is sometimes simpler to adapt leafs to the frame than the stock suspension to the axle. As the pics you posted show you can get very good articulation out of leaf spring suspensions. My big concern with buying such a converted rig is just what you mentioned: the quality of the fabrication. If I had someone whose knowledge and experience allowed them to give me a good opinion that it was OK I would buy one if the price was right.

I thought the breathing in a room versus outside analogy was about as simple as one could make it. Access to air there is no demand for helps nothing. You would probably run 12" of lift because, you know, it would make clearing 28" tires easier even though there is no need for it. Goof. :)

You are on the right track but there is quite a bit more to a "ram air" effect than that. For example some "functional" scoops that supposedly provided a ram air effect actual caused a reduction in air flow as the opening for the scoop was not positioned properly. The air flow was directed higher than the scoop opening by the aerodynamics of the car, for example. Also at just passive intake velocities you may not get any more "packing" of the cylinder. The valve still only opens so far. Where a true turbo or supercharger packs in air by pressurizing the air several times that of the atmosphere how much, if any, does a "ram air" scoop do it? Does it increase velocity enough to do anything? How much velocity is lost at the first 90 degree turn in the routing? But you are on the right track with trying to force more air into the engine. Passive screens will do nothing of the sort. It would at most allow the engine to suck in more air but only if it could not suck in enough before the addition of the screen. Either way doing a mod because you think it will help doesn't show anything unless you can prove that it helps. "Well it ought to help..." is hardly proof of anything.

Again: access to more air is useless unless the engine is lacking air to begin with. Nothing with this posted mod showed the deficiency that needed corrected and it certainly did not prove any gain. Going back before the butthurt I said that the mod may help...or it may not. Nothing showed it one way or the other. What I did say was that for some people, not all but some, that mod had potentially harmful side effects that should be considered by those users. Bottom line: saying that access to more air can't hurt is nonsense until you prove more air is needed. Nothing in this thread showed that deficiency or any gain from the mod.

http://blog.4wheelonline.com/2015/01/29/gm-plans-to-revive-the-hummer-to-take-down-jeep-wrangler/

Nope. I am suggesting that even stock it lets too much water in and it would only get worse when the Winnipeg Supercharger screen is added. :banana: So I stood in my living room. 24'x12' x10' ceilings. Closed all of the doors. Breathed just fine. Went outside. Unlimited air available. Breathed the same amount. So the volume of air available to me made no difference as my air requirement was met just fine already. Hmmmm. The volume needed is important, not the volume available? Having extra volume that is not used is a pointless? Shocking concepts. $10!!! Adds Horsepower!!!! Hey the ad says it works so you know it must. Manufacturers never lie about their products, do they? http://www.ebay.com/itm/FITS-JDM-BLUE-SUPERCHARGE-TURBO-SINGLE-JET-BLADE-TORNADO-ECO-GAS-FUEL-SAVER-FAN-/121222129122?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c3966e5e2 And an ELECTRIC version! I am sure you boys down to the Possum Lodge have already figured out how to do this with a leaf blower.... :thumbsup: All in fun. With a name like Jethro you can't help but joke about everything, right?

Ain't that the truth.

Most (all?) states do not require a rear bumper on trucks or didn't for decades, anyway. Trucks were shipped without bumpers in many cases and the dealer sold you an add-on bumper if you wanted one. This also allowed you to get the custom bumper you needed/wanted from the start. A common southern and maybe western thing was a dealer bumper with the dealer's name welded onto it in some obnoxiously large manner.

Neat. At $125 ready to go the price isn't bad

Did you try that Tornado "Manitoba Turbo" that I linked? I just wanted your opinion on whether the 75 horsepower estimate was better or worse then what the mesh screen supercharger provides.

Psssttttt....posted before your rant: "Another vote for using caution if you do any play in water. The factory air box let's enough water in that hydrolocking an engine is a real concern without adding more ways for water to get in." Clearly stating to any literate English speaker that my post was for those who play in water. :thumbsup: And: "I am assuming some only wheel in dry conditions or their truck is kept on the pavement. That is fine but not all use their truck that way." :brows: Reading comprehension is important, eh? :cheers: nearly free turbo: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171654249401?lpid=82&chn=ps. Gotta be worth 75 horsepower :eek:

My '88 4.0/auto with no a/c but the factory tow package had the aux fan. I assume it was original but can't prove it. A lot of things get changed in 25 years. My '91 4.0/auto without a/c does not have the aux fan. When I added one I found the plug under the air box. I think it was Hornbrod who told me it was under there.

He is halfway there. :thumbsup: Ford license much of their hybrid pieces from Toyota. Can't wait to see pics of it lifted :yes:

Something's wrong here, because gauges (but not the tachometer) were standard equipment on the Pioneer trim level It may depend on the year but gauges were definitely not standard on a '91 Pioneer.

The little u-joints on the column to box steering shaft can be worn or even broken and cause such slop. Not uncommon in the rust belt if nowhere else.

At minimum I would do trussing and/or internal sleeving, better axle side link mounts, and chromo shafts if you intend to use a hpD30. People always use tire size as a measuring stick but there is more to it. What may survive at 190 horsepower is a whole different story at 400.

Love that idea

I am a manual fan even though my MJ is auto. Even my Liberty was a 6speed stick. A good tranny like a T18 or NP435 adds a ton of off road ability by lowering your crawl ratio while keeping street able axle gearing.