Incommando

Good point. The tranny uses its own control module to activate solenoids to control the gear selection. It could be as little as a pinched wire or bad ground.

Without a fully functioning trans and only 2wd that would not bring even $1,000 in my area. I bought my fully functional and reliable '91 for $400 and drove it about 400 miles the next day. Undercoating added at 110K may make the undercarriage "look good" but considering your location many potential buyers well worry that it was added to cover a problem. Or at least they would in this rusty area. *I am in no way implying that you did that* but many buyers who might pay top dollar will be concerned about what fresh undercoating may be hiding especially with the floor pan rust issues of the MJ. So it really comes back to what it is worth to you?

Recently told to me by a 4 year old neighbor: Why is a giraffe's neck so long? Because his feet stink!

REEEEEEEEE-tired. And loving it. Please pay your taxes on time so that you may support me to the level to which I have become accustomed.

:thumbsup:

With all due respect regarding intelligence and how many wheelers one may know I would point out that you clearly stated that not many people run them in the former post prior to completely contradicting yourself in the latter post. So.... :dunno: I also cannot find any pics of you using an 8274 especially on your 2wd MJ. Can you post some please? If the market was there the bumpers would be there. By Warns own figure the only model of the 8274 sold new is not one of their most popular. The average internet selling prices is around $2k with some higher and some lower. http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Winches-Jeep-Winch-Accessories/M8274-50-Self-Recovery-Winch.aspx?t_c=18&t_s=300&t_pt=100702&t_pn=WAR38631&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=Cj0KEQiA1NWnBRDchObfnYrbo78BEiQA-2jqBa6_Xg2LQQn6ctP5fpkz6_KRp1f8Bva7SM0CkQD_V4MaAvcG8P8HAQ I am not talking about craigslist price or the like for a 30 year old winch that will be good after rebuilding. It is a fine winch but it is far outsold by the more conventional type put out by many companies. Remember that small market thing and running off vendors? If someone is willing to step up and help us out and you don't want their product it would be an aid to the rest of us if you just moved on to the product you do want from another vendor. We have had so many problems getting products for our trucks.

If it is that contaminated I would try for a power flush. Otherwise I would buy cheap ATF and keep draining and refilling if the first draining helped at all.

Beat me by 2 seconds. lol

Door: any front door from any 4-door XJ Cherokee is a donor. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/body-chassis/154-0901-jeep-cherokee-xj-door-upgade/ Interior: stock restoration or custom?Many XJ parts will work but things like the headliner and seat supports are MJ-specific. If you can fabricate the sky is the limit. Lift: What are you looking for? Be honest: if you need a hardcore rock crawling rig build for that but don't lie to yourself about it if it is going to spend the majprity of its life on the street. Their are compromises either way you go and you should try to get what you actually need out of a lift. A 3" - 4.5" lift is most common. In my and many other's opinions Zone is a good company for an off-the-shelf lift. It performs well off road and on. Rollbar: a junkyard Dodge Dakota roll bar is a common swap for this. Most mini-or mid-size bars will fit. Compare the measurements of a bar you are interested in to the space you have.

Well it makes sense that the right leak could cause a cross-over contamination. That would also cause the over-full condition and fluid viscosity change. You have to fix the radiator anyway so I would do that. You need to flush the tranny anyway so do that after you get a good radiator in there. If it was me I would flush the tranny and cross my fingers.

The no rear bumper thing was common a crossed all makes. For decades the federal requirement for mirrors were one interior rearview mirror and on external mirror or two external mirrors. If you have a low-optioned vehicle then all they did was meet the minimum.

Thanks for the info about the mounting style. I was familiar with the rep of the 8274 but not the uncommon mounting style. The fact that not many people run them is wjy I questioned the necessity of changing anything to accommodate them. But it is not my company.

I think that is just a distortion due to the weird dimensions of the pic of the black truck. Adjusting for the angle of the 2 pics the edge bar seems to line up with the same location on the grille for both bars. That top pic is just jacked around.

That is one sharp concept

My '88 SWB with the factory tow package had a factory D44.

Just in case you didn't know the factory choices are the two on the top row and furthest to the right: Dana 35 & Dana 44. But nothing is assured on a 25 year old jeep. ( In just noticed that at some point or another in have had 8 of the 16 options on that chart in a jeep.)

Google "Dana 44 diff cover" and compare the shape to yours

Wombat what prevents the 8274 from being mounted as it shares the same 10x4.5 mounting pattern as almost every other winch out there? Even if it won't mount I would not worry too much about it not fitting that bumper: the 8274 is a fine winch but at $2,000 I rarely see them and I would bet you would be hard pressed to find even a dozen members with one mounted up. There is not enough market to warrant changing a design when you probably will never sell one for an 8274 user, anyway. The basic m8000 design winch made by so many probably outsells the 8274 by at least 50:1. As I said earlier: the bumper price is inline with other good bumpers. We are a funny lot. We B*&^h & moan that no one makes parts for our very small market and then we B*&^h & moan when someone does. Remember the rear bumper debacle a few years ago? The B*&^hing & moaning is partially responsible for killing that. I am 90% sure I will order a set of MJ ROCKers when they come out. Thanks for keeping us in mind

:thumbsup:

Snag me that tailgate. I will send you a couple of books of stamps and my address. :)

I wouldn't mind some tailight protection. Tailight prices are outrageous.

4 rear TJ flares work out pretty well.

Start eliminating the simple and free stuff first: is the t-case selector fully engaging the t-case? Wear can cause problems there. You already mentioned checking the posi-lok. That is a definite possibility. It is not hard to open the actuator and make sure that the fork is engaging.

So many 4.0's get hydrolocked.

People with CV's who want to 'wheel often convert to U-joints.