Incommando

I am thrilled that the Badgers did it. To be blunt I hate Calipari. His ungraciousness in losing as shown during some of the post-game interviews is so par for the course.

:rotf:

You can cut those off and use the spring plate mounted MJ shock studs but it will limit your articulation some. Not an issue for a street truck but it might be for an off-roader. I bought two cheap weld-on shock mounts and put them behind my axle (stock location on a SWB...LWB is in front). I can run a longer shock and the shock is tucked up out of the way. http://www.barnes4wd.com/Bent-Curved-Axle-Shock-Bracket-Pair_p_114.html The plus is you can sell the D44 for huge money for those who just have to have one. You are giving up almost nothing to the 29-spline 8.25 as the MJ/XJ D44 is about the smallest tubed D44 made. BTW: the fore/aft shock mounting is supposed to help control axle wrap...

The advantage to runnning the stock tank in the tool box is that you don't have to rig a pump and the replacement parts remain the same.. Just listing options.

The 80's may have been awesome in the Netherlands...but not here

The 80's kinda, well, sucked. And that fancy '80s dimmer technology? it's has been around for at least 30 years before the 80's. Whippersnappers.

You can get a good in the bed locking tool box just slightly larger than the tank for about $60. Mount the tank to the box. mount the box to the bed. Plumb through a hole drilled through both floors. Use grommets. Cut a hole and attach a CJ/YJ/TJ style gas surround to the side of the tool box for filling. you could also run a fuel transfer tube out of the box and up to a filler ( even the factory one) mounted in the bed under the bed rail. This is the type I have seen used in a Cherokee. You might need a slightly different size. http://www.zoro.com/i/G0816715/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=Cj0KEQjwi-moBRDL4Omf9d_LndMBEiQAQtFf848Q-_5ppzItGZJnigBycFVnKQgNs7pJLE_V9grqA9UaAj6u8P8HAQ

Spicer. They are $20-$25 apiece. How cheap do they need to be before people stop buying off-brand? I don't know why anyone buys anything else unless they are going the high-dollar CTM type route...more on that in a minute. I know the three sets may have been warrantied but after the second set it would be pretty clear that they are not up to snuff or their is another issue. New Spicer shafts set up for 5-760x u-joints using full-circle retention clips are very strong and can be done for under $300 with the u-joints installed. I have a pair in my garage I got from Amazon for $275 shipped last Tuesday. You can also tack weld the caps or buy support bridges from places like IRO to up the ante. That set-up is a bargain for the strength increase. RCV's are the shizzle...for $1,100! I would rather have a u-joint pop and act like a fuse when I can slip a spare shaft in in 15 minutes ( or change the u-joint in 20) and be on the trail again. Try that with the RCV's after they survive but pass the force onto your differential and it explodes. Just like CTM's. If you are hitting it that hard that you need them then you probably just need to bite the bullet and swap in a better front axle. Don't forget that the RCV's are only guaranteed for up to a 35" tire. Tens of thousands of folks are running stock big-joint shafts on 35's successfully. http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJ30-XJ You see far more stock CV guys looking for conventional u-joint shafts to swap then the other way around. For a street jeep they may be fine but the stockers are not an upgrade anywhere else. Anyone looking for a "ride quality increase" by switching to CV's maybe isn't in the right vehicle anyway... lol :banana:

The same jeep as would be best for a boy: the one she wants.

I run 32's with 3.55's gears in a locked 29-spline SOA 8.25 but a 4.0/AW4. It does fine on and off road. Could it be better? Yep. But it is solid. I went 'wheeling both days last weekend: 120 miles @75 on the highway and did everything that any other 31/32/33" tired jeep of any model there could do.

Sorry, but at $50 that was a cheap lesson when it comes to figuring out that you should not do business that way.

3.5 hours each way for me. But with free shipping I always get my stuff from Summit and Jeg's ( 60 minutes each way) next day no matter what time I order it without paying for speedier delivery. It comes in handy.

There is a whole thread gone bad on here somewhere about gee-gaws and mods like that for the gullible to buy/do. It is hilarious.

If you ever hear of "throttle body injection" or "TBI" now you will known what they are talking about.

Sounds like an episode of The Walking Dead

It uses what looks like a high-tech carb in the usual carb location. It has one or more injectors in the throttle body itself so that the air & fuel enter the intake at the same time just like a carb. There are not separate injectors at each cylinder.

Thank you to you both. I think I will pull the cluster as I just swapped it in a few months ago. It would be more likely that I screwed something up. :) Thanks for the info on the connector, Hornbrod. That will make it easier for sure.

Yeah the CAD is like the MJ's. All of that was from memory so my memory of the CAD years could be a little off. The D44 rear was last used in '79. From '80-'85 the AMC rear was used. The cover looks like half of a basketball. In '86 they switches back to the D44 rear.

'91 OBD1 4.0. Looked down and the tach was bouncing like crazy but the engine was smooth and just like it should be. Then the tach just quit reading. I checked the dist.connections and they are tight. No other electrical issues. Ideas?

Yeah that truck has had a lot of swapping. That stud is from the sway bar link. Your sway bar is missing. You can see the spot where the bar mounted in the upper right of the pic on the frame. It is cleaner. Although there was a fairly rare dual front shock option that stud is not for a shock. Your shock is in the correct position. The dual shock setup had one shock mounted where yours is and the additional shock attached on top of the axle tube. They used a taller frame-side mount to place the top mount of the second shock higher then the original so the shocks had the same length and travel. On my phone it looks like the spring plate is swapped side to side as to me it looks like the stud is behind the axle. I am 90% sure it should be in front of the axle. Maybe it is but I can't tell on my phone screen. The factory rear for an '81 J10 was for sure a model 23 ( everyone calls them model 20's but that is the CJ. version.) If it has 8-lugs it could be the D60 rear from the J20 as the cover is very similar just bigger. Either way the rear is not original. IIRC the front is not actually auto locking at the hubs. In '81 they used solid slugs to eliminate the multi-piece lockout. The228/229 fronts used a vacuum operated fork on the passenger side axle to move the two piece shaft together when in 4wd. It is called Central Axle Disconnect or CAD. That t-case is a 208 and the AM on the tag is for American Motors. The 228 and especially the 229 often failed. I would say your truck was auto and had a 228/229 and they swapped in a 208 when the original failed. That would mean that the front axle was correct for the truck. Running that axle with a 208 is no problem at all.

:rotf:

I had 120,000 trouble free miles out of my 3.7. Two buddies have almost 200K. But it seems that they must have regular oil changes in my observation. These engines are fairly expensive to both re-build or buy used so buying one for the price of scrapping the truck might concern me if I planned on keeping it.

things get interesting I'm a 35 year old truck. The shifter sounds like the 208 which would be right for the 258/stick.

It is very popular to swap the grill, plates, and headlights from a late 60's FSJ onto a newer one. It is known a a "gladiator swap." The 228/229 is a full-time case. The front axle will not have locking hubs but a solid cap on the end. The part time case that year was an np208. Except for fleet service the 208 was used on the stick shift trucks. On my phone screen it looks like that axle is the non-lockout version. Factory front axle would have lockouts if it had a part time 208. That distributor is a common upgrade as the factory ignition was not well loved. Basically the top is a GM V8 HEI distributor with integral coil with the shaft for the AMC motor. Davis Unified Ignition ( DUI )is the high end brand but Chinese knock offs are readily available.

To repair the rusted frame on my CJ7 I got some rectangular tubing roughly the size of the frame. I cut the top of the tube off with an angle grinder to make it a c-channel that reached the top of the frame. After getting off all the rust and using a rust converter on the original frame I then tapped the c-channel onto it from below. Welded the top of the channel to the frame. I only had about $100 in the fix and it covered most of the frame on both sides. Doing a smaller area would not be expensive at all. If you have any 4x4 clubs in your area and you get with them you can often find a decent welder dude to help you out for a few bucks or a few brews.