Incommando

The old MJ seemed sluggish. I could find no reason. Changed the fuel filter even though it is only 8 months old and I put in a new tank at the same time. No change and no pressure in the line when I cracked it. Put a gauge on the fuel pressure and found 32 psi. The pressure bleeds off immediately when the engine is turned off and it retains no pressure when the engine is off. Grrrr. It looks like I should have 40-42 psi. I sprung for the better Bosch pump 8 months ago. We will see how the warranty works

There are instructions online for building your own boostwerks style linkage and they show an AX15 version. I started to go that route but it was more $$$ to build my own then buy theirs.

Do not confuse a Grand Cherokee with a Cherokee. They are not the same

That does look like a good product

Not quite. There was also a "tow package" that was not the metric ton package. It included many of the some parts but was also available on a short bed and also gave you a 5,000# tow capacity. I have the Fey bumper. On a Comanche the Fey bumper itself is rated at 350/3,500 using a ball on the bumper. It is in the literature that comes with it and stamped into the bumper itself. That should be adequate for your needs and is fairly cheap from jegs.com and summit racing.com among others. Incommando, Can you point me to the documentation for the "tow package"for the short wheel base truck? Perhaps/likely the H.D. cooling Auto trans, Dana 44 were available on the short wheel base. But the Metric/Big Ton package required the long wheel base truck. My source is the 1991 Comanche user manual that came with the truck and my original window sticker. Other limitations on the 5000 trailer weight limits were the front area of the trailer was limited (from memory, 25 sq ft?) and an equalizing hitch was required for more than 3500 lbs. My comments about the bumper capacity were directly from the Comanche user manual and specifically about the factory bumper. The capacity of the Fey bumper - if that is what they stamp it with - well they know the limits of their bumper. But what about when you bolt it to a Comanche? I would "think" the truck limits for the bumper are the are the ones to use. After all a chain is only as strong as the weakest link. It is also true that two firms can have different views of what the bumper/truck combination limits are. Again, I am just quoting factory limits I am aware of. Lots of people, including me have hauled more than the factory limits. Personally I have put over 3100 lbs in the bed of my truck. 88 owners Manual that came with my tow package SWB D44 rear axle 4.0/aw4/tranny cooler 4x4 XJ. And your 91 manual reads slightly differently than mine. I think the manuals' reference to the capacity of the factory bumpers means it is referring to that bumper. Changing the bumper throws that out of the window. Thinking that the aftermarket bumper specs exactly equals the factory one and so has exactly the same rating per the manual doesn't compute.Oh well. Toodles.

Confucius says: Nothing is written stone when referring to Jeeps. Truer words were never posted

Far better than a factory LSD. Sort of in between a Standard LSD and a locker if you know how to use them. If you drag your brakes ever so slightly when things are bad they actually lock to some degree. I only have experience with them in a front application, though. They are invisible in the front so should be in the rear as well

jK mirrors are pretty dandy.... On a JK anyway

The rear sight lines are sucky. It is like driving a submarine.

I'm almost there, minus the rear 4link... Love it. I wouldn't mine leafs at all 4 corners either

I want an MJ Truggy. There are plenty of rusted out unsalvagable MJ's in this region so it would not be killing a good one. Tons,39-40 inch tires, linked front and rear

U no likey my welded turbo muffler with just a turndown? Yeah a tailpipe is on the to-do list. I learned from jeeps in front of me that flooring it gave you some wheel spin but only got you half way up. I was trying to be easy on the gas but hard enough to make to the top.

This mud is as slick as snot. It is hard to even get moving. It isn't deep mud but it offers no traction. https://youtu.be/Mh-bNx--0_I Haspin Acres ORP Laurel, IN 7/11/15

The MJ has twice as many mounting bolts on the crossmember and that might be one reason? Or maybe they just never mocked it up to an MJ

Yes if you have a stock style driveshaft. On level ground measure the output yoke angle on the t-case and then duplicate it on the pinion yoke.

In this pic I was an combination mud & water hole. It suddenly dropped into an off-camber rut. For reference the water/mud line that is across my left headlight and just in front of the air intake? 43". This is a budget boosted XJ on 31"s stuck in the how I made it through. When we removed his air box to check mud had clogged the drain holes and his filter was wet. In another thread some people questioned the need to relocate the air intake. You be the judge

I didn't get the "seal" comment, either.

6 cans of Rustoleum. $30 or so. Flat on the hood and from the belt line down and gloss everywhere else: The plan was for this to be temporary fix after I mated a blue bed onto my maroon truck but who knows? Starting point prior to replacing bed with the blue one:

I am a short bed fan and you can do plenty on 32's . I am also an HO (91-92) fan and previously owned an '88. There is a thread in my sig from when I did the conversion but here is something that I cooked up: I did this last spring. Pretty simple as the 2wd beam axle uses all of the same suspension as the solid axle from the 4x4. If you can use a wrench you can do this swap on the front. Unbolt one, bolt in the other. A few hours work. You will need a matching AW4 and transfer case. Spline counts changed some between years so it is easier to get a matched set and get one as close to the year of your truck as possible to alleviate any possible electronics matching problems. Some claim issues with swapping years. I used a '98 set-up in my '91 with no problems. Obviously XJ donors are the most plentiful. Get the t-case shifter at the same time or use the option below. Drop the fluid lines & shifter linkage, drop the rear drive shaft being careful about the fluid in the tranny, unbolt the 4 converter to flexplate bolts, unbolt the bell housing ( the top two are a weird inverted torx thingy...can be a PITA), drop the cross member, & as you drop the tranny disconnect the electronics. Be sure to keep the cross member & mount oriented correctly as they can go back together backwards and cause alignment issues. Attach the electronics/speedo to the new pieces, hoist it in place, & re-install the crossmember as it is the same for 2wd/4wd. Attach the bell housing bolts, attach the flex plate bolts, attach the lines. You will need to screw with the exhaust as the main hanger is attached to the cross member. I took my exhaust completely off to weld up the manifold and to go custom past the head pipe. If you are going to go off-road in any kind of wet area take this time to extend your tranny breather tube. It is much easier out of the truck. The t-case shifter can be a royal pain to source and mount especially in the rust belt. A far better solution, both in ease of installation and later performance, is this shifter linkage: http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/231-HD-Shift-Linkage-Auto-Trans-_p_25.html . That is $38 well spent. To install the shifter itself pull back your carpet and unbolt the access plate. Bolt the t-case shifter into place from the interior side. Attach that new linkage from below. Attach the original tranny shifter linkage. The front drive shaft is pure XJ. Maybe grab it with the tranny & stuff. The rear drive shaft is more tricky. First of all the original is too long and will need to be shortened. The new length will depend on the t-case and rear axle that you use. here is a chart that will help: http://comancheclub.com/topic/18925-looking-for-driveshaft-lengths-of-stock-trucks/ . The next problem is that that although the 4wd trucks used a conventional rear drive shaft from the factory the 2wd trucks used a bizarre ( and giant) two-piece arrangement with an inner and an outer tube. In between is a full-length rubber sleeve that connects the two tubes. That rubber makes re-welding harder and the shaft often cannot be re-balanced if that rubber has shifted over the years. You cannot get an XJ shaft as the MJ has a longer wheel base. That leaves having a custom shaft built or doing what I did: I found a conventional shaft in the pick-in-pull that was longer but used the same 1310 u-joints. I had this shortened and re-balanced as that is usually about a third of the price of a custom shaft. needed: 4wd AW4 & matching t-case T-case shifter & boot t-case linkage front driveshaft Front Dana 30 HP front from an MJ/XJ in a gear ratio to match your rear. ( the early CAD axles are less desirable and use smaller u-joints. '96-99 up are better donors. A 2000/2001 XJ or a TJ front end will bolt in but they are the weaker low pinion designs and it will be hard to match the ratio with a tj front. ) custom rear drive shaft of one flavor or another I tried to make this as complete as possible but I may have forgotten something. Good luck.

I would love to see it but it would probably crash the Internet

Use 4 REAR TJ flares

My Boostwerks works flawlessly at a fraction of the cost of the Novak. I, like most, will have installed one or the other but not both. The Boostwerks install is simple and the adjustment process is easy. If you can comprehend the workings of a turnbuckle you have it down.