Zenobian_84

Going to be replacing my EMG within the next few days; would be today, but I don't have a torque wrench readily available, and won't until probably Thursday.. :fs1: I'm missing one bolt for sure, maybe more. I know the replacement bolts should grade 8, but is there other things I need besides bolts and washers? I've heard of there being "studs" there too, or maybe people install studs to get the bolts out easier without them getting sheared or broken off. If that's the case, should every bolt have a "stud"? Or can I just use the bolts and washers, without studs. Sorry for the newbie questions, but I've never really dealt with this sort of problem so far with my mechanical prowess. :(

My mistake. 9 hour shift at work will do that to you sometimes Didn't think a raised emblem would work, given the heat inside the engine compartment would cause the glue to dissipate perhaps? Or am I just over-thinking things here. :dunno: Also, to Ismurphy. Interesting, seems like it would work. Can't say I would do it in "Aluminum" though. More likely I'd go for a medium to darker shade of blue, to match my eventual striping I'm going to put on the truck.

Keeping in line with the unique theme I'm going for here with my truck, I thought of something while at work. Anybody remember these engines? If not, that's fine. It was before some of our times (mine included). The Tornado 230; the only OHC engine produced by Jeep. Basically, I want to apply the "Tornado" logo to my own valve cover, but am unsure of some things. I wanted to know if anyone has found a good way to apply small brush paint to detailed sections of a valve cover that can withstand the heat coming from it. I've heard people using model paint (Ismurphy), but am unsure if this would give me the results I'm looking for, or withstand gentle cleaning (wet paper towel mostly) and my main concern, the heat. Can anybody offer me any suggestions? :dunno: On a side note, is there any place that can make custom valve covers? Reason I ask, is there a way to get that "raised lettering" look like seen below; and yes, I know it the old VCs were pressed and constructed from cast aluminum most of the time.

Am also very interested in this. Most of the time, I see good bedliners at the P&P, but I don't want to spend the $ to play the, "will this fit?" game. :fs1:

Was reading your post on the Water pump earlier at work this morning. I feel your pain brother. :fs1:

There's a slim possibility that me and the GF will be moving up to Gainesville within the next few months and sharing an apartment with some friends of ours; mainly for schooling purposes. Long story about that though actually... But, several things have to happen though, and if we do end up moving, then my stash of MJ parts has to go; along with some other valuables of mine. :( :wall: Hopefully, I might be able to talk the GF and buddies into letting me stash them in the spare bedroom closet out of everyone's way :brows: Also, this move can probably only happen if our jobs are willing to relocate us into the Gainesville / surrounding area. Getting back on topic though, just wanted to get an idea if anyone on here is around the Gainesville area. Doesn't seem like to many people are out here near Tavares. In fact, Exgrayxj is about the only person I believe (over in Howey) that lives around me currently. If this move does end up happening, I wouldn't mind meeting up with some northern FL MJers :yes:

:cheers: :thumbsup: I like!

Hey, anything's possible. I turned my '87 SporTruck into a one of a kind SWB Laredo with some upscale interior :brows: You wouldn't believe some of the envious comments I've gotten from people I've met. :yes:

For anyone following the thread with the same problem: Removed the IAC. Solenoid was slightly sticky. Pulled out a bit and it seemed good to go. Cleaned the springs and little bushing pins. There was also carbon buildup on the electrical pack itself. Re-assembled it and installed back where it belonged. Started the truck up, same idling speed; removed the vacuum line from the EGR valve. That didn't make any difference, so I removed the connector from the TPS. Didn't make a difference at all; I even ran the truck with both the EGR and TPS connectors removed with no improvements. Any thoughts on what's next? Both the EGR valve and the vacuum lines running to and from the Throttle Body have vacuum, so I can't say there's a leak somewhere. My next guess would probably be the TPS, so that's what's going to get checked / adjusted. :fs1:

Have a feeling it's a combination of the ISA and Manifold. Anybody have pictures of the IAC on a 2.5, and how to check / remove it / clean it? There's quite a number of little things around the TB, and most of the descriptions I've read through forum searching on what the "IAC is, and how to remove it" don't help much. Thanks.

Anybody going to be free Wednesday-Friday (scheduled days off) for the next two weeks? If I can get this darn vacuum problem fixed I can travel around again.

Is it a closed system? On my '87, the Temp Sensor is on the back of the block, behind the valve cover. Never heard of having to bleed a 2.5 through the temp sender. :dunno: Although, if the sender is crusty, I'd suggest you replace it. Shouldn't be more than 8 sheckles for a new sender. If the truck isn't a closed system, then you shouldn't have to bleed it. I didn't when I replaced the upper and lower rad. hoses. Although I did spend some $ on a Stant pressure release valve cap for the radiator. Whenever I release the pressure in the rad. the excess air bubbles into the overflow tank.

And power steering deosnt rob horsepower at speed like the AC compressor does. When mine kicks in, you KNOW it. It drags the engine down noticably. But I love having it here in the south. Only reason I'm on the fence with PS is that it's more bracketry, lines, pump, and a replacement steering box to get in my way when I work. Mostly it's the price tag for the steering box that's keeping me on the fence. Maybe I'll end up doing both if I can get a doner vehicle w/ the entire setup...

Replaced the worn out / cracked lines. Seemed to make a slight difference in the idle. Idle's around 2500 right now instead of 3000, so it's getting there. Next on the agenda is this, the ticking time bomb. I have no idea how long the gasket has been like this. The arrowed part juts up above the manifold/intake ports and doesn't sit flush against everything like the rest of the gasket does. I'm going to just ASSUME here, that it should not be doing this, and that a properly installed gasket should sit completely flush against the block? I'm also going to go ahead and assume that there is supposed to be a bolt here? Again, I have no idea how long it's been like this. It could have been like this since I got the truck to begin with. If there's supposed to be a bolt here, then that would 95% likely explain why the engine shimmies and shakes around while it runs. :headpop: I blame both the PO and myself for not realizing this sooner. :fool: :thwak: Going to go buy a new gasket, along with a bolt.... possibly. Can the bolt that's still there (@ end of manifold, closest to firewall) be used again, and if not, should I go get a new set from the dealership? Or can I use bolts from the hardware store? Grade 8 I assume. Not sure if I have to get them heat treated, but I would think so. Also on the to get list, a new Exhaust Manifold to replace this one. Won't be for a while though...

Pretty sure I have that pulley. I'll take a few snaps of my engine bay in the morning. Also, to Ismurphy, yup, no Power Steering. Maybe one day I'll shell out to install it, but as it stands right now, it's really unnecessary. Well, to me at least. There's very few times I wish I had it, but those are few and far between.

Only need the arms! The only difference between the old and new wiper assembly is the electrical plug on the motor. :cheers: Awesome. Will definitely be doing this upgrade next time I go out to the P&P.

Anybody have a few pictures of how a 2.5 engine bay is setup from the factory with A/C, without the Power Steering components (resevoir, pulley, etc)? Don't know if any 2.5 A/C trucks were even shipped this way from the factory. Going to be saving up the $ to add A/C to the truck down the road, and I wanted to know if I can mount all the A/C stuff without having any P/S junk (pulleys etc.) If anything, I'll even take some 2.5 engine bay shots with A/C and P/S setups, just so I can save them to my PC so I can get an idea of how everything should look when I get done. Thanks. :cheers:

:clapping: :thumbsup: You know, the more I look at these pictures, the more I'm impressed with the TC. The interior stylings alone make up for the unusual body style in my book; but then again, it's the whole package that makes it such a unique sight to behold. So, with that being said, I retract my earlier statement. The TC is definitely a one of a kind, symbol of the 80's. I'm super impressed with the door panels; and I wish I could find a cool pair like that at the JY. :brows: :fs1: Isn't that the ECU (in front of the overflow bottle) on the passenger side; and if so, what's it doing there? If not, what is that thing?

Nice job on the exhaust and SOA lift. :thumbsup: I always did like Maroon MJs. :clapping:

Scoured my engine bay today checking all the vacuum lines. The only line I could find that was in terrible shape was this one. It runs from the Heater Core to some little vacuum connector doohicky. Does the HC even affect vacuum for the truck? The Doodad in question. What is this thing? Can't seem to locate it in my repair manual... :dunno: The only other line that's in questionable shape. Connects at this Y-Joint; left side goes to the vacuum ball, the right goes to the air box, I believe. I was told previously that the part blocked off controls the HVAC for the non-existant 4x4; correct? Will be replacing this ragged line down the road, to avoid more problems later.

Nice, clean install Don. :thumbsup: My only question is, do you have to get the entire 97+ assembly (motor, linkage, arms) to install the arms? Or can you just slap those bad boys onto the old points protruding from the cowl?

If only I had the money.... :fs1: :brows:

AX-4 Tranny. 4 Speed on the floor, if you don't know the AX Family of tranny types. Do manuals even have downshift cables? I've never heard of such a thing (D-Shift cable)

Usually, people only swap in a HEI for FSJs, because most of the time its somewhat of an improvement for the antiquated technology found in the 258s, and small block AMC V8s. With that being said, the HEI is only useful because these engines were bogged down with an overabundance of electrical wiring from the factory setup; most of it was to control lousy and over-designed emission crap. Believe me when I say this, you're better off with keeping a Renix/HO ignition distributor than going to an HEI setup. If you've ever seen the inside of a 70s and 80s Full Size Jeep, you'll know why.

The MJ seems to have caught a serious problem. Here's the story :fs1: Sorry for the ridiculously long post, but I figure if anyone's going to help, they should know exactly whats going on. ---------------- Drove to work last night around 10 pm. The last few weeks, nothing amiss has happened while driving it. Shifted flawlessly, idled where it should, never overheated, oil pressure was in the good. 5 minutes of driving down the road (my job is only about 10 minutes away from my house) the truck started to get a high idle of around a constant 1400 when I was sitting at a red light. Seeing as how this sometimes happens randomly (has been doing this since I first got the truck) I didn't think too much of it. Instead of fluctuating back down to around 900/1000 where it usually idles, it stayed at 1400, and began to climb. Needless to say, I started driving again and shifted gears, noticing that each time it seemed as though I had the gas pedal 3/4 of the way to the floor, even though I didn't. When shifting gears, I noticed a slight clunk when going into second, but figured it was due to the idling. I got to work and parked the truck, where it sat for 9 hours. I got off work about an hour ago, and started it up. Everything seemed back to normal. I drove about a half a mile, and, what a shocker, it started acting up again; but worse than it was last night. Instead of idling at around 1400 at a stop light, it idled at 1900, and kept climbing. I had to turn the truck off at least 5 times because of my fear of the engine blowing due to this happening; with each time upon starting, it would be at a higher RPM rating. The final time I turned it off before I got home, the idling at reached 3400 RPMs. I pulled off the side of the road about a 1/2 mile from my house to check the engine compartment. Other than it being a little hotter than normal (I contribute this to the idling, because the truck ran at about 200 degrees the entire time) everything was fine, and I couldn't visually see anything wrong. I did notice however the last day or two that the truck's oil gauge ran over the OK line once or twice (about 65/70) for about 10 minutes, then would go back to where it usually is at around 55. Lastly, when I pulled into my house, I opened the hood for another visual check; I decided to check the throttle cable because I thought something might have come loose because the pedal seems to be slightly lower than it usually is. When I pulled the throttle arm, I noticed it gave off a clunk, and the cable shuddered when I let go. ------------------ So... I'm at a loss for ideas right now. Here is what I know. :wall: 1. Something like this just doesn't happen unless something has gone out or has failed. If the truck ran perfectly ok up until last night when I drove it around (I drove it yesterday morning as well with no signs of a problem) what could be making it act like this? 2. I was thinking it could be a vacuum leak somewhere that has grown bigger. I've been thinking of replacing the manifold gasket with a new one, seeing as how I had a similar high idle problem right before I replaced the O2 Sensor a few months ago. Could this be a possible culprit as well? 3. Could the throttle cable have gone south? Or could there be something wrong with the gas pedal? What keeps the pedal from falling to the floor, because it doesn't seem as resistant as it used to be. 4. Removed the cover off the throttle body to check if anything was wrong. Opened the flange all the way and white smoke poured out. Am I correct in guessing this is just excess fuel smoke being burned from the still hot motor? As always, especially now, help is appreciated. :dunno: I have 3 days to fix this problem before I have to go back to work. UPDATE: Had my dad speak to 3 mechanics where he works at within the last 20 minutes. They all agreed it was a vacuum line that either got disconected, or has rotted out. I believe I know which @#$%ing line it is. It's the line that runs to the vacuum ball behind the front clip. Could this line be the culprit?