derf

That sounds right.

The pin is just a bolt with a round head. There's a standard nut on the other side. Be very careful if you take it apart. The springs are under tension. I use a couple of C clamps on either side of the pin to hold the pack together. I've also put the whole pack in a bench vice. Then it's just a matter of taking off the nut and the pin comes out. You should be able to get a good sense of the size of the bolt without removing the nut if you look at it closely. It's standard SAE: 5/16", 3/8", 7/16" or whatever.

I've seen individual clutches in the packs break inside of a D35. All that does is make it whine a little. It acts like an open differential when the clutch packs wear out. The worn metal dust floating around in the gear oil doesn't help your bearings, which can also make some noise when they start to go bad. While the axle is out, it's not a bad time to replace seals and the outer axle bearings no matter what you do. A drivetrain shop should be able to figure out what's good and what's bad and get you set up. If you really want a working limited slip, you can either get the unit rebuilt or spend a little more and get a better limited slip. Eaton makes a TrueTrac that I use and it's great. There's another company that started making one very similar in the last few years. I forget the name. It's less expensive than the TrueTrac but seems to be getting good reviews.

I ran to the grocery store this morning to do the weekly shopping I usually do on Sunday morning. About 2 dozen people lined up to get in. They had some TP and, more important to me, paper towels on the shelves. Limit one package per customer. Everything else in the store is "Limit 2 like items". I had 3 six packs of soda but they were all a different brand and that was OK. So some "common sense" limits going to to keep the panicky hoarders from going nuts. Some of the shelves are still empty. There isn't much pasta at all, and the soup aisle was nearly empty. But the fresh food seemed to be well stocked. I ended up grabbing a deal on buy one get one free pork chops and some chicken so I'm good for a while.

Yeah, at this point the factory limited slip is probably an open differential. Rebuild is not hard. Just make sure not to mix up the shims when you pull the differential. As far as the drive shaft, the different pinion length will mean you need to shorten the driveshaft. The lift would let you shorten it less. Have the truck on level ground and take a picture of the slip yoke. Put the new axle in and hook it up. See how much further in the slip yoke sits. If it's too much, find a driveline shop. They're in most significant cities. They have the tools they need to balance the shaft after shortening it. It's not difficult work but it is a niche and you want a professional with the right tools doing it. You can have them replace the ujoints while it's there as long as it's out. Any heavy equipment shop (truck, tractor, etc) would probably know a place they farm the work out to.

City of Denver just announced a lockdown "shelter in place" like other places have. I expect the state to follow suit shortly. We can still go to the grocery store, etc.

For just the oven and a fully disconnected stove top, 30A should handle it. But I'm paranoid and I absolutely would upgrade to a 50A circuit all the way through.

A friend of mine used Gold Star Transport to broker a transport. He brought a full size RAM from the east coast to Denver. It was running. I'm not sure if they will work with you for a non-running rig.

The amperage rating will be max total. So yeah, everything on high at once. If you want, it looks like you could easily disconnect the circuit for the burners on the top just by disconnecting some of the wires where you attach the power cord. That would ensure that you never reach the max load, even by accident. The plan sounds good. Assuming the wires check out, 30A breaker, 30A wall socket, matching 30A cord with plug for the oven. Maybe disconnect the wires for the top burners at the back there and you should most likely be good to go.

I agree with above. The newer Cherokees are completely different in almost every way. The conversion is possible but very expensive and difficult. The whole layout of the Jeep changed and they added a lot of computer control that also runs everything inside. The suspension is completely different. The engine layout rotated 90 degrees and they went to independent suspension front and rear. All of the wiring is one big integrated mess that is hard to split apart. You can make the swap but it would cost 10 times as much as it's worth, if not more. A 1997-2001 XJ conversion is the closest to "cheap and easy" as you will find. The entire XJ/MJ product line has the same basic engine and transmission layout and it kept basically the same (or at least similar) axles from 1984-2001. The wiring harness and computers did not drastically change so swapping computers and wiring is not very hard. Parts will interchange with only a small amount of effort compared to what it would take to swap in something else from a completely different donor. The 97+ XJ swap will be the most cost effective.

A 30A breaker protecting a 20A plug is a big fire risk. The fact that he's got 30A circuits in there suggests the wiring may be sufficient for 30A. But double check the actual wires themselves. 10 gauge minimum. 8 would be better. Any less and you'll want to pull new wire. And since you're going to do that, pull 50A rated. May as well. You can still put a 30A breaker on 50A wire and a 30A plug. If the wires themselves are sufficient, you can easily swap out the breaker to 30A. And just running the single oven without the stove top burners, you're more likely to run under 30A than not. Best bet is to find the model number of the oven and google it. You'd be surprised at how easy it is to find manuals and documentation these days. That would tell you the rating of the unit.

What is the rating of the breaker for this outlet? What is the capacity of the wire (usually printed on the wire itself)? Most ovens are 30-50A, all told. Working current will probably be less since you're only running the oven and not the stove. It may be a 20A circuit since that's all that a compressor may need. Double check everything before you just swap out the plug. If you can't find the rating of the wire, make sure it's at least 10ga to support 30A. Thicker to support more.

Some good news on the subject from Johns Hopkins University. Apparently blood plasma from recovered patients helps to treat people currently infected. The antibodies in the plasma helps to fight the disease and teach the body of the person infected to make their own faster. This has a lot of promise as a treatment until we can find a good vaccination. https://hub.jhu.edu/2020/03/13/covid-19-antibody-sera-arturo-casadevall/

I'd agree with having the vent/drain holes in the frame if you can. Also, you can get spray cans of rust proofing paint specifically set up with a long flexible nozzle designed to paint the inside of tubing. They're great for painting the inside of frames that have holes like factory frames do. One example: https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Internal-Coating-Aerosol-Nozzle/dp/B00MROX1J4

I read all 5 books of the Hitchhiker's Trillogy when it came out and have a leather bound edition of all the books. Definitely a lighthearted and fun read. They were made into a movie that was... disappointing. Though Alan Rickman as the voice of Marvin was absolutely perfect. The BBC made an incomplete miniseries based on the first two books I believe. It was a bit better if you like British TV. I forgot a few books in my list. Arthur C. Clarke wrote a number of great books including 2001, 2010, 2061, and 3001 Isaac Asimov is another writer with many great works including I Robot as well as the whole Foundation series.

My sister came up with a good saying. "That's a problem I can solve with money." By all means if you like doing something, enjoy it. I totally understand the satisfaction of splitting a cord of wood so you can feed the fire yourself. I do it once in a while myself. But most of the time I pay the gas company so I can have a machine take care of heating my house and I don't have to do anything.

Exactly. Do what you can to stay prepared. Anticipate contingencies. Roll with what actually happens as best as you can. Ignore the doom and gloom from "news" sites about what might happen. Life is much happier.

I love plasma cutters and grinders.

It gets better. The back hole for the track bar bracket. Hey, if it doesn't line up, just drill another hole.

Apparently Hellen Keller fixed this bracket before we got to it.

The Martian is a good book. Better than the movie. I like to read some of the classics like Animal Farm, 1984, Fahrenheit 451, The Andromeda Strain, etc.

My Warn XD900 (not to be confused with the XD9000i with the integrated control pack) is the same size as the M8000.

The only way to get a true handle on this is to start aggressive testing of everyone and then putting anyone who tests positive into quarantine. At some point, we're going to figure out a vaccine for this. But with all of the anti-vaxxers out there, that's only going to put a dent in the spread instead of solving it.

The MJ, from the factory in the US, did not come with DRL. Only regular manually controlled headlights. Do you have an aftermarket DRL setup?

My thoughts exactly. I regularly isolate myself from the general population for a variety of reasons.