derf

If it's together with red locktite, you never need to take it that far apart ever again.

No real progress this summer. It's been too hot. The silver donor has been mostly processed. It's back in the yard for storage, many parts sitting in tubs in the cab, waiting. If it wver cools down, I'll get the garage cleaned and organized. First steps will be to take care of the big pile of axle parts. I'm going to strip them down to nothing. Then build them up from the ground up. New everything. Gears, lockers, high steer knuckles, truss with XJ/MJ mounting points for the long arms to bolt to. After that, the AX15 gets torn down and rebuilt. Once those are done and the parts pile is more manageable, the truck will get wheeled into the shop and any body work will begin.

Normally I only use blue. But the steering column is an exception. It will never have to be disassembled again. So red is appropriate in this specific case.

Sorry. Got distracted. I can take the arm off the red Jeep and send it if you want it.

Actually, the lock ring is under the steering wheel. You'll also want a steering wheel puller... https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25200-Steering-Wheel-Puller/dp/B000CMHKP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Mu56UPU2CJwiDX0Qtj3U87t_zQ29xRJwPExPdhnSuQVA1t5fy-49o5rtz_YoApSUT5arpiCcMPRaav8mgwOo8An6ZNXedQwcqCYR-tm4AHipavGORL03XsSdfmsWCyX4uwS6RkO5LoGWK-C10j1l-DnFBKkaACs02hshexndms6YCdoVK6eXS3q3yrZeKhn9Mq_d2KcCB-0XSo66jOYAIw.N_phbGg4qRzUzPKEBwXmFP5Y4YexQJpcIh9jsczImx8&dib_tag=se&keywords=gm+steering+wheel+puller&qid=1786037173&sr=8-6 You can google "GM steering column rebuild" and I bet there are some videos showing the process.

Common problem on GM tilt columns. The fix is a little tedious. And you need 2 specialty tools. Both not expensive. Basically you tear it apart all the way. Then the last piece is where the loose bolts are. Add some red locktite and tighten them up. Then put the whole thing back together. There's a lock ring on the steering wheel and you need a tool to press the wheel down enough to get it out. https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648466-Steering-Wheel-Plate/dp/B004KED7RU The pivot pins in the tilt joint need a special tool to make pulling them easier. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80652-Steering-Remover/dp/B000Q6JBL2

Second round. 1970 For daily driving duties, an Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser with the Rocket 455. A GMC K10 with the 396 big block for truck duty Of course, a Jeep needs to be in the mix. A CJ6 with the Dauntless V6. A GTO with the Ram Air 455 for cruising. And for top down fun, a Corvette convertible with the 454.

Not really. I can't quite see inside and there may be something open underneath. But there isn't an exposed hole.

As an aside, I'm planning the stereo for my MJ build. I'm using the @boxyjeep 6.5" speaker mounts for the rear and I'll put some dedicated woofers instead of a full on subwoofer. The fronts will be quality full range speakers.

Yeah, I don't trust people who have a vested interest in selling me their products. You don't need much to get decent sound out of the Infinity speakers. After all, it's a regular cab truck. There are probably better choices that would work well. And they always recommend a much bigger wiring kit than you really need. Those have a lot more profit margin. And they're probably 2x more capable than you need for the smaller amps. 8 gauge wire is likely all you need. Without a sub, you can probably get by with 10 gauge.

How big of an amp are you planning on running? For the compact 4 channel amps at 45-50W per channel (plenty for those speakers), you can get away with a 10 gauge wire. No matter what size wire, have a fuse near the battery. I've seen people burn their car up by not having a fuse. The insulation on the wire gets cut at the firewall and it shorts out. A fuse at the battery protects you.

I have my parts donor apart. I can take more pictures if you want.

In general, not sweating your snardlies off is a benefit in Moab. I've been there in July. It's a little warm.

Will you ship?

East Coast gear supply is my go-to for stuff like that.

I bought one of the generic cheap ones off RockAuto for the 258 in my CJ7. It fit well enough but it had a different size drain plug than factory. I had to get a different Fumoto valve.

1995 for me. YJ with the 4.0 and AX15 for Jeeping Buick Roadmaster wagon for daily driving. Came with the LT1 Chevy Implala SS for more B body fun. Corvette ZR1. 405 HP in the 90s was pretty impressive. Manual transmission, naturally. Ram 3500 diesel extended cab for hauling duties.

I was able to wrap up everything and take it for a mostly successful test drive. Steering and suspension in general are much improved. Up to the level you'd expect from a CJ7. So not great compared to my 2025 Subaru. But it did 55 MPH down the road without any trouble. I'm getting an intermittent check engine light from the Howell TBI. There is also a noise coming from the transmission or transfer case as I'm actually moving. Doesn't really change with speed. But it's there. I'm also hearing some pronounced valvetrain noise. Likely some collapsed lifters as the noise comes and goes. So a camshaft swap is in the cards. I'm pretty sure I don't trust it enough for a longer trip. And I have to get ready for my vacation road trip next weekend. So a wheeling trip is out for now. But it's running and driving more or less now.

But it looks better when properly equipped...

Maybe. I don't want to commit just yet.

Pretty much done fixing what the DSPO screwed up. The upper swaybar end links have a special bolt that is a little bit of a hassle. But replacing the under size hex bolts that were flopping around is worth it. Got everything torqued. I still need to grease the tie rod ends and ball joints. But we'll see about taking it for a drive tomorrow.

Too much weight. Subarus aren't very capable tow rigs.