derf

It's an interesting idea. However, history has shown that trying to convert a gas engine to diesel doesn't usually end well. The only ones that worked out were the industrial gas engines in medium and heavy duty trucks that were way overbuilt. If you lift some of your restrictions like allowing a fully custom head, it would be easier. Managing a turbo with a cross flow head is much easier. But you still have the clamping force restrictions of the head bolts and that's going to be a huge limitation. You'll have a limit on how much torque you can make. There's also the issue of being over square. The bigger bore and shorter stroke isn't the best way to design a diesel. You want it to be the other way around. The smaller bore and longer stroke of the 258 would be better. I like the idea. In theory anyway. I'm just not sure it would work well.

I was working on some steering parts and got a recommendation on how to pull the tie rod ends. I'm not sure how this helps.

Got the engine and transmission stabbed into the truck.

Engine is starting to look more like an engine.

Passenger side brake drum wasn't cooperating so I convinced it to come off. Them I found out why. Fortunately, this was discovered as I was already rebuilding the rear axle anyway.

Time for a few upgrades...

Yeah, it is pretty nice. I'm not looking forward to that part of my MJ build when that gets rolling.

Today was transfer case rebuild day. It's now ready to go back in.

I did some more work getting the truck ready to receive the engine. I'm swapping over some sheet metal on the front clip from a donor (in the background). And it's easier to access the engine bay with stuff out of the way so with some help I pulled the hood, cowl and driver's side fender.

It always seems I spend the most money on parts I get for free...

And yes. I hve considered putting the powerstroke into the MJ it's sitting next to. I just don't want to do all the fab work to make it fit...

Engine is back from the machine shop.

I'm going to be out that way week before Labor Day. I don't have much vacation to burn beyond that.

I've had this project for a while. Making slow progress on it. It's a 1997 F250HD 4x4 with the 7.3 diesel. It has some body damage and the engine wasn't running. But I got it for a steal. Turns out the #2 cylinder was toast. 160 PSI compression when the rest were around 360. So it sat for a bit. I did post a pic of the MJ with the engine in the back. It sits... a little low with that much in the back. I have a donor for the sheet metal and other bits. It has a running and driving 460/E4OD 2wd powertrain that will be for sale. I also swapped in a Dana 60 from an F350 to replace the TTB Dana 50 that was in it. That's a lot easier to do with no engine in the way. I found myself with a couple days off so i got the 7.3 torn down and ready for the machine shop. The MJ makes for a good workspace for that. I'm going to be working on this over the summer. It should end up being a good tow rig to haul the MJ when I get it done next year.

I started to look at the R2.8 swap but it won't pass emissions here. It was never sold in a production vehicle in the US. So I started looking at a TDI swap. There are companies out there that will rework a factory harness to be a standalone setup. Just hook up a couple of power leads (battery, switched power from the key, a starter wire) and some grounds. There are adapters for the AX15. The AW4 is computer controlled so you'd have to do some custom work there. You'll need to figure out an intercooler. There's room to have an air to water setup. Or build a custom core support that lets you run air hoses to an air to air intercooler. Other than that it's normal engine swap stuff. Custom motor mounts, custom radiator and heater hoses, custom AC lines. You'll probably want to get a fresh replacement fuel tank and set up a lift pump that can handle diesel. Exhaust will be fully custom. It's a do-able swap. But you'll need a healthy budget for all the little stuff that adds up well into 4 or even 5 figures.

There are lots of options. From guides on what parts to find and do it on the cheap to various kits to full crate engines. It just depends on your budget. Look up the information listed above. As far as emissions, that depends on your build. A mild camshaft and the right injectors will let you run a factory computer and be in the right spot to pass a sniffer test.

It's getting harder and harder to find parts for an AMC V8. And the 401 doesn't take an overbore very well. I'd focus on the 360 if I was going to swap in an AMC these days. Though I'm much more likely to take out an AMC and replace it with a GM or Ford V8. Those are a lot easier to find parts for. That would be my plan if I go back to full size Jeeps.

The 360 is a physically large engine. You can make it fit but it will take a lot of custom work. And nobody makes any swap kits that will help. I'd go with a 3.4 from a GM F body (Camaro/Firebird). Grab the whole wiring harness with the engine and it's a straightforward swap. If the donor has the 4L60 automatic, I'd keep that as well. Easy to adapt it to the Jeep t-case (or just run it as 2wd if that's what you have). That way you get a pretty good overdrive.

I have looked into a Liberty CRD swap in the past and it required ABS inputs to run the computer right, or so I've been told. That may be more important with the 545RFE behind the CRD than it is for the 3.7 and its transmission. My hazy memory tells me the NP242 in the KJ did away with the speed sensor in the tail housing. Some transmissions have a tail shaft VSS that the computer uses to manage shifting decisions. Others rely on wheel speed sensors and some arithmetic for the controller to know what to do.

I believe it also relies on ABS sensors to shift the transmission as well as display speed on the speedometer so you'd have to work that out too.

3D trail in Moab. First day of Easter Jeep Safari.

Yeah, for the automatic, make sure you run the appropriate auto trans fluid. It's not all the same and it matters what goes in. Put the same stuff in the NP231. That's a little more flexible in what it can take but if you run the same in the trans and t-case it's easier to keep track of.

At one point I was up to 6 battery terminal cleaning tools and 4 Dana 44 hub nut sockets once I found it all after a move. I force myself to keep the number of total project (active and pending) as low as possible. And I've started using bins and ziplock backs to keep things organized when I pull stuff apart.