derf

Last axle video for a bit. I'm going to move on to body work next.

Yeah, it's on the way. I have to pull the drivetrain and do some body work. Then paint. Then the cage will probably be done. This is a slow project but I will have videos of most of it.

Welding high steer knuckles.

Video took a while to get released but welding fun in this one.

Using revs per mile with that equation will make you as accurate as the manufacturer is. Granted, that's not precise by any means but it's the best baseline to go with for general use. You'll generally be within 1MPH of actual speed with that method. That's assuming, of course, that your mechanical speedometer is anywhere in the vicinity of accurate. And that's not always a given either.

Inflated diameter is inaccurate for figuring out the speedo gear. Best bet is to find the published spec for the exact tire you are running. It should have a revolutions per mile number. That number is based on the actual rolling diameter of the tire on a vehicle on the road. Plug it in to this equation: Rev per mile × axle ratio × 13 ÷ 1000 = tooth count. Round down to have your speedo read a hair higher than actual speed.

Knowing exactly which tire you are using will help you figure out which gear you want. Most 32" tires are not 32" in diameter and that affects which speedo gear you want.

Some cutting and welding fun.

I've seen too many people trying to sell an allegedly valuable car but they can't find a buyer. They get a whole lot of "I wish I could..." and "Someone should grab that" responses but no one shows up with cash. So it ends up getting scrapped. That has happened to me once. Almost twice. I hated to scrap the old CJ but after a couple of months no one showed up. Fortunately someone got the J10 though they stole it from me at the price they offered. Still, it was more than the scrap yard.

The pricks are on the outside of a porcupine.

Short video of the first fit of the truss.

Videos of the axle builds are coming out after a brief delay.

The stamp on the envelope will probably cost more than the value of the check.

I bought a t60 socket, popped the torx part out of the socket, got a long box end wrench that fit over the torx bit, then another wrench as an extension.

Carrier break on a 44 is 3.73 and down. If I were building a stock-ish MJ I'd do 3.73s and TrueTracs front and rear. And at least 30x9.5/15 tires.

Not my Jeep. I already have too many projects going. Someone should scoop this one up. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/hartsel-86-jeep-comanche-diesel-manual/7643796725.html

Usually the driver download site should have instructions.

First, you need to download it probably. Maybe on another computer and use a thumb drive to copy it over.

A USB wifi dongle should work without too much effort. At least with a modern version of linux.

New shiny bits inbound.

Last of the brake parts came in for the rear. So it's together and ready to go. I'll get a few more parts on the front 60 and stow it for the time being. But before I get much further it's time to address an old nemesis.

Sometimes it's the Del key, depending on the BIOS manufacturer. But yeah, once in that menu, change the boot order so the CD goes first.

More slow progress.