BeaterComanche86

Sports bar, chrome rear bumper, full gauge cluster, and the 2.5...I like it. Not a bad price at $4500 but let’s see those floors...

Thanks for clearing this up, I was just curious and in no way trying to criticize. And your right MJ taillights are tough to find and when you do most will charge a premium for them since they are quite rare so using what’s available was a good choice. But it looks like you’ve done a ton of body work and put a lot of time into making her look as good as she does

I thought the same but weren’t the reverse lights still on the bottom with the Dakota? Either way the fit looks good. @elycomanche can you shed some light on this?

If the price is right I’d be in for a LWB version. Looking forward to see how these turn out.

Damn you got me with the last pic lol But seriously good find on those wheels, I’ve always liked them

I haven’t had that one, this was the first beer I’ve had by them but I’ll give olde mother’s a try next time I’m in Fredrick. Idiom has some good brews too, I’ve been on a sour kick for a while and they a few to chose from. Also your rye IPA sounds like it’s gonna be good

Attaboy Beer out of Fredrick, MD. Smooth and crisp pale ale.

Picked up some spark plugs today, I figured after running so rich for so long they old ones were toast. Here’s the old one lined up from front to back, all pretty consistently cruddy but #3 looks worse then the others. They were all gaped pretty close to the recommended .035 which was surprising. I noticed better response after swapping these out, went with the classic Champion copper plugs. Cheap improvements are always nice, time for a beer

That’s blue looks great! Also I think your taillights are upside down.

I would guess the bumpers and chin have quick disconnects like these: Seems like it’s more for the “art” of modifications than any functionality.

I’ve never liked chrome on cars I’ve owned before but I’m coming around too it, I think it really compliments the MJ. Could have went with black but I think I made the right choice. Center caps

BOSOZOKU! Surprised this hasn’t caught on in the states.

Thinking about order this myself https://www.dieselorings.com/schrader-valve-fuel-injection-rated-1-8-mnpt.html

I’m not the biggest fan of drums but don’t really hate them either, for me the hardest part is remember how it all goes together. Glad to help, us 2.5 guys gotta look out for each other. And I will say there weren’t to many options when I went so I had to get what I could.

Took a brake from engine stuff to work on my leaky wheel cylinder (pun intended). No pics of that other my reminder pic of how the springs go together, also you can see how dirty it was in there after my first can of brake clean so you can imagine how bad it was before. Standard stuff, take it apart and put it back together. Got the brakes bled properly and painted the drums cause silver looks better than rust, personal preference. I’ve been working on cleaning up my wheels cause they look like this: They look a ton better, so I’ll post some after photos tomorrow when the suns out. Cliff hanger...

So continuing the saga of running rich: I swapped the correct gasket onto the throttle body, it did run a smidge worse with the first one I put on. Once that was back together I got to work checking the fuel pressure. Ended up buying a test kit and fitting that threads onto the test port. It’s not a Schrader valve but it threads right in to the throttlebody test port so you can slide a hose with a clamp right on. Works like a charm, so measure the pressure and it was about 16 psi, looking for 14 psi. Took the TB off to get the solder ball out of the adjuster, after a few minutes with no success I pulled another bowl off a spare TB I had and rolled the dice that it was adjusted properly. Thankfully it was, just a hair over 14. Also putting a new PCV valve cause it was $2 and why not. I think I need to come up with something better for this Then freshened up all the vacuum line that go to the EVAP canister, pretty rough shape. So after all that I fired up the truck and took it for a ride and wouldn’t you know it runs quite a bit better, no more heavy gas smell and very minimum bogging at 3/4ish throttle. Still not completely there but I did learn how to read the codes on the REM from the “check engine light” and all I have is low baro pressure so I’ll be looking more into that, I also noticed my IAC reads 0 all the time on the REM. So the saga continues...

@Pete M Guess your max ownership went up

OP just incase you didn’t know what some of the stuff mentioned was here’s a photo of the front end.

Thanks, time will tell. Ill cob together some assortment of fittings and keep track of what I use if I end up not renting. Might be a good tool to have even if I only use it once.

I think I’ll get the gauge before I take off TB that way I can check the current psi with the new regulator to see if it needs adjusting. I rather not adjust it if I don’t have too. Thanks for the idea, I assumed if you changed the regulator you’d have to adjust it to the new one.

Thanks man, I’m gonna take the TB back off to get the solder out of the adjusting screw so I’ll change the gasket before putting it back. One question, did you fill the adjuster screw back in with solder or just leave it out?

$h!+ now I’m second guessing myself, I used this as a guide: This is the gasket I put on: Is that not the right one?

She can run all day long, and there’s seconds we’re it runs perfectly; o2 quickly fluctuating, actually has vacuum, closed loop, switching back between lean and rich. This is all according to the REM but it doesn’t last, also there’s no fuel leaking So here’s a bit of an update: My next suspect was the throttle body, specifically the pressure regulator. I noticed the injector is spraying a normal pattern but there’s fuel dripping down the butterfly when idling, seems like an excess of fuel to me. So I decided to freshen it up and see what was going on inside. Went with this kit from advanced: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-fuel-injection-throttle-body-repair-kit-10822/3464547-P Cracked it open and it was a bit dirty but didn’t look horrible. Then I got to the pressure regulator and there was a bit of corrosion on the piece the spring sits on. The regulator looked fine (no holes, tears or corrosion) and the springs still springy. Either way I replaced everything that came in the kit and shined up the inside. It’s all back together waiting for me to adjust TPS, ISA, and Regulator. Gonna update more I just need to rent a fuel pressure gauge and wait for a day when it’s not raining.

I know I know, I have a few good threads I’m using to troubleshoot right now and if those don’t pan out I’ll start a thread. Thats what I thought to so I replaced it and it helped but still have the issue. So I’m getting ready to rebuild the throttle body.

It’s proving itself useful but I’m still have trouble figuring out why I’m running so rich. It doesn’t help that theres so many possibilities as to why this is happening. I’ll figure it out and if I can’t I’ll look to the experts here for guidance.