OldSch88L

I didn't find it I only found the MJ stock driveshaft length chart. What I once found was a chart that listed both pickups and SUVs, from all American and Japanese brands, with driveshaft length eye-to-eye, as well as U-Joint type... That thing was a gold mine; can't believe I lost it!!!!

When I did the 4x4 conversion on my MJ, I managed to find a stock driveshaft length chart for almost all pickup trucks, domestics and imports included. I can't remember if I bookmarked or downloaded a PDF, neither where it came from (Pirate 4X4 or another brand specific forum) but the point is that I can't find it anymore. Rings a bell to anybody????

Do you mean the pinion 1-2 degrees downwards compared to the transfer case? With my previous lift, I went with shims that were dead on. It was ok on accelleration and cruising speeds, but got weird noises when I let off around 60MPH... I was having doubts about my backlash settings, but all was within specs at the time, and the diff was quiet otherwise, so I was getting confused... Your comment couldn't come at a better time, as I now have to take measurements again for my new lift, I.E. bad angles, and slight slip yoke wobble due to to over-extension.

I don't know if my front bumper is original to my truck, but it already had the holes for both bumper guards and fog lights, blocked off with what appeared to be factory plastic plugs. I ordered bumper guards from Rockauto, and fitted perfectly with the existing holes. I also ordered Hella 450's for the front, being ready for some modifications, but again, they fitted almost perfectly with the holes. Yes, the Hella brackets have slotted bolt holes, but the bumper's holes where pretty much centered. I wanted some vintage-style fog lights, but got tired of chasing Marchalls, or factory Jeep ones on marketplace that sold before the seller would even respond to my messages. Hella was around in the eighties, so it's good enough for me!!!!

Like Pete said.... Basically, if you have a slip yoke driveshaft, you want your pinion to be parallel with your t-case output shaft. Inversely, if you have a telescopic fixed-yoke driveshaft with a double cardan joint, you want your pinion pointing at the t-case output shaft. So due to different factors, measurements off my truck might not be the same as yours, and you're better off measuring by yourself.

In theory, extreme lowering of the MJ's suspension (4-linked straight axle) could affect the same parameters; incorrect caster (which is also your pinion angle on a 4x4), the axle could get off-centered du to the track bar now being the incorrect length and wheels might get off center in the fenders. The stock suspension gets the arms pretty much parallel, but either lifting or lowering would pull the axle back, although I don't know if the control arm brackets will let you go low enough to get into those troubles.

Like some people said, windshield adhesive (black urethane) is the proper thing to use. If you don't want to buy a whole caulk gun size tube and risk wasting the rest, you can do like I did, and buy the smaller sized Permatex tube:

Man that truck looks so classy in white with the chrome accents!!! By the way, I think you're in the wrong section; if you haven't already, you should start a thread in the "Member Projects: Your Comanches" section for all your truck's updates. Nevertheless, I'm happy to have seen this beauty! Have a good one!

The ECUs DID have different part numbers, but couldn't find any info about differences between the two. And since the truck seemed to run fine at first with the 1986 ECU, that was the end of it. But I always felt like the truck ran better with the 1988 ECU, but I thought it was in my mind, as many weeks went by from the moment I fried the original ECU until I found the 1986 one and started driving the truck again.... What you're saying is really interesting, since using the REM, I set up my TPS on the dot according to procedure. The REM will tell me when it's closed throttle, part throttle, but never full throttle even with my foot almost denting the floor pushing on the gas pedal... I'll sure look into it!!!

Well I finally gave in and bought a complete Rubicon Express upper and lower adjustable arm set... The same website where I bought most of my lift parts, PartsEngine.ca, had a 10% off sale, so that was the kick in the butt I needed hahaha!!! Still waiting on the delivery.

It seems OK off idle through the rev range, maybe on the weak side... I keep comparing to my 2wd 2.5 Ranger, which has give or take the same power, and the Ranger is way peppier. Then again, it is SOHC and not pushrod, multi point injection, dual coils/8 spark plug head, less driveline parasitics losses, and smaller tires and super light Alcoa wheels. The Ranger runs 4.10 gears, while my 2.5 4x4 Comanche runs 4.56s and 31's. So I guess the lack of power feeling is normal. What I find suspect on the Jeep's EGR is its random opening and closing, compared to the info I found online...

Pretty interesting topic... I have a REM II, and noticed the same symptoms as the OP, but the difference is I could monitor all the engine parameters. Turns out it always happens when the REM says that the EGR is ON, at idle. As soon as the EGR turns off, the truck runs smooth again. And actually, the EGR cycles on and off a lot on idle. The EGR valve isn't stuck, and I've cleaned it, and it's also an original one. I also don't know if it's related, but I always have a lean condition on open loop that stabilizes in closed loop. Short term fuel trims always at 128, and long term at around 91 lately IIRC. Haven't found a vacuum leak yet, and all that data is from a 1988 MJ, 2.5L manual, with a 1986 manual 2.5 ECU. Hope that helps.

And how do you like the ride? A lot of people seem to prefer the drop brackets for comfort because they bring the arms back pretty much horizontal, like stock... Of course I'd like full adjustability to set up the truck exactly like I want, but on the other hand, it'll never be a hardcore offroader. In my part of the world, offroad trails are mostly forest trails, dirt, mud, sometimes power line trails, but no serious boulders or rockcrawling- that's not the point of my truck. It'll be more for medium offroading with local Jeep clubs and facebook groups once in a while during summers, as well as being my summer daily driver, and with our legendary third-world grade Quebec roads, comfort is also important for me!!!

Great work! May I ask how you removed the fabric from the headliner? Also, I can't clearly see from the pictures, but did you manage to keep the thin layer of foam padding intact? Mine is in otherwise perfect condition except a big cigarette burn that the P.O. did, so I was maybe contemplating doing thame as you...

I've been driving on my 4.5 inch lift for a while now, and the front geometry isn't happy, and I'm getting a lot of front driveshaft vibrations. I've got 16.25 inch LCAs maxed out forward with alignment shims to try to center the axle in the wheel well, and stock uppers. Still not quite centered, and way too much positive caster now. So, I'm not quite willing to fork out the money for a complete set of front adjustable control arms, but I'd be willing to live with a set of drop brackets. I was looking at RE's brackets, but they recommend it at 5.5" lift or more. Something to do with them also moving the axle slightly forward... Some of you here used them from what I read, but all had over 5" of lift. Anybody tried it with Rubicon Express' 4.5" lift coils? I'd be more partial to RE rather than Rough Country, as it's cheaper because the braces are sold separately...

Ok, I've been researching for long enough now that I'm getting confused... I got my truck aligned after my 4.5" lift. I had to go to a new shop, as the reputable shop that aligned my Jeep all those years in the past now refuse to touch modified vehicles. I didn't get a printout from that new place after the alignment but did get a glance at the screen before they got my truck of the rack. I remember seeing around 9.7 to 9.8 degrees of caster. With that lift, my wheels weren't centered in the fenders, so I maxed out my lower control arms forward, with the tubular 16.25" lower arms and WJ stock uppers. Now the steering is really vague in the center, compared to before with my 3" lift setup. So I'll take some shims out to dial it back around 7 degrees caster. My question is: am I wrong, or does playing with caster also affect the toe? And also, after some settling from the front suspension, my track bar adjustment now seems off. Other than steering wheel centering, will track bar length changes affect other specs?

My love of the truck made me want to know about the origin of its name, which then made me want to know about the Comanche tribe, and eventually other native tribes too. I now think Native American history is something that should be thought in school, both in the USA and Canada, including the horrible things the settlers did to the natives, to put history back in perspective.... Our ancesters weren't exactly all angels and heroes, and it's important to see history on more than one side...

That's exactly why I wanted adjustable shocks. I read a lot of posts on shocks and came to the conclusion that everybody has different preferences so the reviews are worthless. I also have some 5000's on my Ford Ranger and also found them a bit stiff. So adjustables were the logical way to go for me!

Did you bleed the system properly? On my external slave AX5 it took an eternity to get the air out and get a somewhat functional clutch. I'd say between 100 and 200 pumps of the slave at 45 degrees, by hand,the hose end pointing up, while laying under the truck. Extremely boring process. It's now functional, but I think I'll give it a last round for good measure.

I just bought some from RockAuto; they weren't listed in the Comanche parts, but I found them in the 1996 Cherokee exterior body parts.

Didn't have a chance to try in the dirt yet, since I'm on my "shakedown" week, making sure everything works right and is all buttoned up. I'm keeping an eye on my local Jeep groups for the next trail meet though! And BTW, my truck just LOOKS clean in pictures... It was cheaply repainted in the past and the paint is peeling off everywere, and the rear fenders are full of bondo that's starting to bubble and crack. I have some proper metal and body work to do in the future. The only reason it looks nice is because it was repainted with a single stage black. So, since there's no clear coat, I was able to cut and buff further than with a regular base coat/clear coat paint job to bring back a proper shine...

For an update on the suspension, I've been driving the truck for almost a week. I absolutely love the ride. The Rusty's leafs may have been bad in the past, but I think they have been revised. Yes, they are a little bit frustrating to install, but they ride way better than Metric Ton springs on Chevy drop shackles. As for the Rancho adjustable shocks, I think they were meant for heavier vehicles. Luckily, they are right on, IMO, on the softest setting both front and back. The back is perfect, I tried setting the fronts to the second setting but it was getting a bit stiff for my taste, considering the state of our roads over here in Quebec. On the softest setting, I'd say the shocks have just a bit under a 1.5 cycle on bumps. This picture is after a few days with the spare tire back under the truck, and a full tank of gas.

Am I the only one here that thinks that it sounds like an exhaust leak, or am I crazy? Sounds a lot like either a cracked exhaust manifold or leaking exhaust manifold gasket...

From experience, where that wheel seems to be at by looking at that picture, I would wet sand it by hand with a 3000 pad, then the mothers mag polish and then Meguiars Ultimate compound. Try the 3000 on a small area first; as you may need to go to 2000 then 3000. But from what I can see from the picture, I think you're almost there and I'm pretty sure the 3000 grit will do the trick.

Does that only stands for 4.0 liters, or 2.5s as well? When my '88 2.5 ECU toasted, the only one I found was from an '86 MJ. They don't have matching P/N, and the truck doesn't feel as peppy as before... Also, is it the same for YJ ECUs?