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check your fuel pressure make sure it is constant 31 psi and not dropping. 2nd I would check to see if your o2 relay is working. A bad connector on o2 relay can cause rough idle, low idle and dyeing. As above said clean your IAC. I would take it out clean it, check the spring and clean the throttle body from IAC hole and from butterfly hole. One question when you start from cold does it rev a little higher then go down as it should? I have seen bad connectors on IAC and seen the IAC just go bad and not move. A small trick if your stuck with low idle and dying after warm, but idles good at start and cold idle, is to pull the connector from IAC will it is cold and idling higher. It will idle high because the plunger on IAC can't lower the air flow. Now this is no solution this is just a trick to get it moving and keeping in running till you fix it.

The setup I like to use a multi core radiator like on jeep a 3 or 4 core with normal and high flow. The more area that is allowed to exchange heat allows for better temperature exchange. Now with a larger area of heat exchange it allows the system to handle higher flowing coolant. However higher flowing does take away from heat exchange from block to coolant, but when you double, triple or more the core the area of exchange of heat you have better cooling. Now at slow flow, it allows for greater time to heat soak the coolant in the engine block. In the shop my shop our we have two kind of racers. 1st the fast all out ones dragging. They like to use normal flow with very small cooling systems, because weight is key. Now they don't run them for long and don't cool well at idle. 2nd we have the all the time go long racers. There are 2 kinds slow and fast movers. The fast long track laps they like to use normal flow, with multi core 4 +. They don't have fans in their applications, so they require the movement fast air flow. Then we have the slow track mud racing. Since the dirt and the slow speed they have high flow and 2 to 3 core system with 2 fans some times 1 large one. Now that's for the racers we support here near our race track. Our off-road customers, which normally are moving better than a craw but not street speeds they like the high flow multi core 3 to 4 systems with 2 to 3 electric fans. We also do big trucks here that haul like diesels and large v8's. It is standard for as multi core as possible and normal flow pumps. Most the systems hold so much coolant that by the time it gets around the system a large amount of cooling has happened. Since all our jeeps at the shop are highway and local speeds of 45 plus, we go with normal flow and multi core 3 or 4 core with electric fan setup. Since high speed allows for air flow better than the fans can provide, the fans shut down and less stress on the electric system. So basically it all comes down to what you need. If your spending most of your time crawling, and less air flow, multiple electric fans, with a multiple core radiator and high flow allows for best exchange. Now in a 50/50 or higher I think staying with normal flow and multiple core is the trick for most of our jeeps. Those who keep there mechanical fan with the 1 electric fan will cool at good optimal temps when slow. However a 2 or 3 fan electric setup would allow for more verse able cooling since the system can come on and shut down when not needed. Here ins Texas heat is one of the biggest factors, so at least 30% of the customers we get is about radiators and cooling. In the last 2 years many customers have gone to closed waterless cooling. It puts less stress on the system, hoses last longer, pumps last longer and I have not had a unhappy customer yet who used it.

My men in the shop and I do all our research before we even talk to some one about a part. Time frame dictates price. Our computer system is setup to auto order either from Napa, o'reilly, a1 auto, local dealers and newly added Rock auto. We get delivery from O'reilly and Napa with in 20 minutes to 3 hours , others with in same day. I have not talked to anyone for ordering parts in at least 2 years. We only use OEM, or parts we can certify oem replacement. On a 25% case our customers bring in parts. We do a lot of rebuilding in the shop too, so most of the time we don't need to order full parts, like starters, alternators, pistons, wheel cylinders, and ect. We bend cut, and do all our own brake, hydraulic , and air condition lines.

that wire it is the one that kicks on the compressor. In General is you push the a/c button wire goes down to the pressure switch on dryer if you have enough pressure it then passes on to the relay. That relay once active powers that line you have there Compressor and the electric fan.

check this out Kurt1412 http://www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/carrier-breaks/ 3.73 and down for dana44 3.92 and up for dana44

If I read correct your rear is a dana44 with 3.07 on it, that you can not get a thick gear to get to 4.88 you can only get to a 3.73 on a 3.07 carrier. Yes above shows if you have a dana44 with a 3.73 /4.10 you can get a thick gear to 4.88 and retain carrier I am assuming you got a 3.07 since it says in tittle Re gear Dana 44 3.07-4.88 Your front dana 30 will depend on 1 factor, if it was already converted from 3.07 to 4.10 with a thick gear if that was so need new carrier. If it was the factory 4.10 you can get a thick gear for the dana 30 and need no new carrier .

if your at 3.07 you will need the carrier pinion as well. They have what are called thick gears, but they will not go that thick. Say you had a 3.55 and wanted to go 4.10 which is the thickest you could get you can get away with ring and pinion. Here in the show we do regearing 5 to 6 a month. If your going to do it your self, give your self a few days to get the alignment right when putting the gears to gather. Best bet to find a guy who is good at it. over 4.10 and that thing is turning very fast and if not straight or only got a bite of the teeth you will be up a creek soon. So long story short you going to need carrier ring & pinion for both front and back

I kinda want to know what parts I can't get for all my renix jeeps? I can find China, and USA parts for just about everything made for all my jeeps. I have nothing in my jeeps not made in either Canada or the USA. Even my relays made right here in Texas down the street about 60 miles.

yes I kept all our trucks closed system, all are pre HO. We did go with the metal bottle over the plastic bottle as well. Their is much debate over the open and closed system. I like the closed system for one main reason, you have no over flow to maintain. All the newer vehicles have gone to the closed system in the last 10 years now. Most vehicle that come in our shop have the closed system now days as well. Since we have been stocking the Evans for the past few year, I have only herd and seen good things about it. Many Jeep, and Toyota off roaders that come in, been asking for it over the past year or so. From customers have told me even if the system runs hot when rock climbing they get no break downs, or boil overs. A few racers from the race way come in and buy it from us locally. Our one test jeep we have ran the Evans in seems to be very happy. When we do the oil change we check everything out and the system still looks new after 19,000 miles all local driving. The fact it warms up in half the time in the cold and does not ever go over 205 on the hottest Texas day speaks a lot. We in the shop here have tried many things over the years, and I see it being a great change over for those who abuse or run their vehicles hot. As the maintenance goes by we will switch each of our jeep over to the evans in our shop. I forgot to mention that I see the alternator lasting long as well because only 1 fan is working over 2 or 3 most of the time. Less drag on the alternator to charge or put out, means longer life.

the 210 sensor used is the 8932001846 sensor that is connected on left side of radiator. The switch will come on at 210 and shut off at 195 it is default sensor. the other sensor is a hayden 3651 that can control 2 fans and you can adjust temp when you want it to come on. the hayden will be hooked up to One of these, that is made for switch or temp sender Aluminum Shroud we made in shop & Triple 7" Fans is what we use. we bought 3 of these of course we used the 3 row core all metal we use these , but not their 2 fans. If you are going to use the newer radiator with the old renix style bottle you will need a high pressure cap so that you will not blow fluid. you would need something like a 21 to 25 psi cap so that the bottle can be used. The bottle cap is 15 to 18 psi. So it would blow before your cap would on radiator On one of out trucks we also did the evans waterless coolant, very expensive, however does not need changed for 10 years or more. The pressure on the system way less of normal water used coolant, which means your hoses will last much longer. It also has a much higher boiling point at 375°F and freezing point of -34° F. So far we been happy, only 1 fan ever comes on, and the max psi has only reach 1 psi ever. Even with a/c on the 1 fan cools it below 200 all the time in the 110 texas heat.

it will work. the difference is open and closed system. also I think the sensor that plugs in to the radiator is different for the e-fan. In our shop we like to get 3 core all metal radiators from same year it comes out of. Then install the 3 e-fan setup. 1 fan comes on at 180 and is main cooling, 2nd fan comes on when a/c is turned on, and third is hooked up to manual bypass switch and the 210 degrees temp switch on radiator. We have in the past also hooked 2nd fan to 210 degrees temp switch on radiator, and found out it was unneeded.

On the few trucks we installed ac from non factory the wiring was not their that was on 86/87/88. We used a factory ac box and factory ac dash unit. we wired the button to a relay that kicked on the compressor and the fan same time. We did not install a cabin thermostat. We did this for the 3 trucks at the shop about 15 years ago.

sounds like ground loop interference to me.

If you wanted to be lazy, but save your self. Put a standard relay to your light switch that gets energized only with the key on. yes you would only be able to have lights on if your ignition is on. At that point you leave lights on as, soon as you pull the key all off. You can also get a delay switch connected to a standard relay. it will keep energized for up to 5 minutes after you turn off.

One of my jeeps in the shop was having same issue. So we replaced the 31 year old radiator with a all metal 3 row core, put a new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, and went from mechanical fan and 1 electric fan to a 3 fan setup. Now the thing runs nice, about 195 on the highway at 75 plus mph and under 40 it runs right at the 203 degree mark. Since we work on vehicles here labor is my time and the cost of all parts was 175 dollars (ebay metal 3 row core with 3 fans was 115). We use the 30 coolant 70 water mix with 2 bottles of water wetter. As everyone said, check flow on radiator including thermostat for flow, then also make sure hose collapse is not a issue.

stuck in defrost is normally a vacuum leak. default no vacuum is defrost. I would check your vacuum lines running out of cab to the ball.

if your getting al lot of air, I bet you need to check the hose in the tank. Get the vacuum ball line fixed. It supply's the vacuum for everything that needs it, like 4 wheel drive.

I would check pressure like stated above. under more load like in 4th and 5th gear you will see issues like you stated when you have low pressure. The fuel injector has hard time keeping up when you are running below about 22 psi. If it is low pressure than you have a few things to check. the fuel pressure regulator fuel filter, hoses in the tank, than the fuel pump its self. I see the hoses in the tank fall apart all the time with the ethanol that is put in the gas now days.

Here at my shop we track all mileage on our jeep, since we use them to pickup and drop off parts. 15.8 mpg for city and 19.1 for highway driving for most of the jeeps we have. We have the right gearing for the speedo to make sure it is very true in mpg. When I seen this I was like I was just looking at the monthly petro costing spread sheet

So you going to put a new axle under it or pay for a rebuild? Most will say get another if it is the dana 35. If you do rebuild it, make sure you take it to some one who can do it right. I seen people do the rebuild them selves and it whine like crazy then lock up in a few thousand miles, or teeth shred down the road. If you do, do it your self, take your time with the adjustment. It can take a day or two to get it lined up perfect. Finding a cheap rear end that is upgrade from your most likely dana 35 would not be to hard to find.

I have lots of people who used the anti slug from sea foam all the way to tranny fluid. 75% come in because they clogged their oil pickup strainer with it. I prefer if you have build up of sludge to do mini tear down. Take valve cover off, pull rod and lifters,. open up the drain plug and warm kerosene to flush it out. many small area's that sludge can get stuck causing problems. We then clean the kerosene and repump it back in till it is clear. Then we run a synthetic for 1000 miles and should be clean as a whistle. Here at the shop we don't like rebuilding because takes so much time away from servicing the cats and diesel's that come in.

I would clean the connectors real good on your heater relay. I have even cut it out an put new relay wiring in, for bad cases. The ECU sends the signal to turn relay on when the engine is below the temp threshold. When Idling and when the day is cooler are some of the times the ecu sends signal to turn heater on. The o2 sensor needs to be up in the 1200 degrees area all the time to work right.

The system should be able to handle as much as 400 psi with out leaking or blowing out. if the high side is leaking out of quick connect you best need to change the stem inside, since it seems to be bad. You could have a bad fitting all together. I have came across cheap china parts that mold is not right. We make all our hoses in shop and they are rated at 1000psi. The high side needs to hold as much as 400 plus psi. a rag is not going to hold any type of pressure. The quick connect I think he means is the 134a high side port.

The 4.0 is a push rod design. you don't need to pull head to check lifters, and rods. You can do everything without removing head, jut the valve cover. To remove push rods and lifters you remove the rockers. I am not saying you have to remove anything, but you can get a idea by looking and listening when it is running. If you do pull rods, you just need a magnet to pull out the lifters. Push rod motors are some of the easiest to work on, because you don't have to always remove the head or heads. yes 60 sounds very high should be around 25psi give or take. For oil pressure being so high reading, I bet you have a bad ground on your block or your gauge is not working right. If you take the connector off your oil sender the gauge should shoot up to max pressure. when you ground it out it will go to zero. If it does not your gauge is off. If it does then I bet you have a bad ground on engine or oil sender

Go to jeepair.com they have them their.