eaglescout526

I recall somewhere that was said that the speedo stuff on the 207 is GM stuff.

I hate brute force but sometimes it’s the smartest choice you can make. Since funds are incredibly low during these times, I couldn’t afford a new tie rod and one I had bought a while ago stripped out before even getting it installed in the adjustment sleeve. So brute force came, hammered the tie rod back to a straighter stance, cleaned up the threads, reinstalled and I should now be able to center the steering wheel and give it an alignment.

Bad ground or the gauge has failed is my initial thoughts.

Idle Speed Actuator. It’s similar to the IAC but it’s only found on TBIs. You can find it on the GM cars and trucks and our own 2.5L.

Interesting. Hunting makes me thing the ISA screw is too low. So when it idles the ECU adjusts it to make contact with the closed throttle switch to tell the ECU it’s at idle or coasting in gear. So if it’s idling and it gets too low on idle, the ECU will kick the ISA up and try again. If it fails to maintain an idle while in closed loop, it will default to open loop fun little fact. Learned that with a bad headgasket while watching the REM. These do have grease inside and can harden and or not make good contact anymore. I hope that explains your why. How? Could be a couple reasons IE headgasket or the ISA was played with for another issue.

Holy crap! That’s a first. Usually that’s messed with by other when they have an idle issue.

Yes commentary welcome here! That way we can seem to include that radiator mod or not.

I wonder what thread that was in? So the 16 and the 23 are the same exact tank dimensions. Just the baffle inside stops the fuel filling sooner on the 16 than the 23. The 23 gallon and 18 gallon fuel tanks share the same sending unit. 16 gallon was available from 86-92 on the LWB. Again, same exact tank dimensions. 18 gallons are for SWB MJs only. LWB tanks(23 & 16) have three straps that hold the tank up. SWB tank(18) only has the two straps that hold it up. Now here’s a fun one, 86 TBI sending units are unique to 86 only and the only thing that makes the unique is how the input and output hoses point straight out vs angled towards the engine on the other units.

I need your help! It came to me that should compile a thread of 2.5L specific DIY stuff and I just finished perusing through the DIY and found a couple I’d like to see if anyone did or can update with pictures. The two in question: There might be another aluminum cover DIY but I couldn’t find it. I plan to try to make a couple more at some point like TPS adjustment and better understanding of the vacuum for 87-90 years. Your help will be greatly appreciated as one is pretty unique and not done commonly and the other seems to be common enough to warrant some updating.

REM should provide some insight as well.

Sweet glad ya found it! As far as the full cluster, one little thing I’ve noticed with the tach is it bounces when cranking. That’s how I’ve been able to determine if it’s something in ignition. If that bounces, you should be good in terms of the ignition system. Like I’ve had a couple CPS issues and when the tach doesnt move, I unplug and plug it back in and it’ll fire right up.

Huh. How interesting. Ok it’s resetting. Do we know if it has been adjusted at some point in its life? I’m almost wonder if it’s working but it’s not “working” like yeah it moves and makes sound but is it opening to the correct position for next start up kind of working. Just a thought. Does it have a full cluster?

Huh. Interesting. Can’t say I’ve run into that issue where at least the CPS doesn’t solve such an issue. I’m wondering if the ISA isn’t operating properly.

The ground for the sensors and ECU ground out at the dipstick mount stud or bolt. Hopefully we can eliminate electrical being an issue before we look to mechanical. Part of me thinks headgasket is failing as I had similar symptoms but let’s check the free and less labor intensive stuff first.

How are your grounds? Start with the basics.

87-90 used the same units for either engine except for the 16 gallon tank which has a smaller float arm. Just make sure you get the right capacity and you’ll be good to go. Fuel pump doesn’t matter either as the regulator at the TBI will handle the pressure. Now the only model year that’s special is 86. But literally the only difference is the input and output tubes on the unit at straight outward like the XJ.

It’s something that showed up the last time CC was updated. I think it’s need to have. It usually shows up on the last page.

Should be able to swap them no problem at all and should rear just fine. I did a sending unit swap on my 84 and it’s fine. Currently inside is an 87-90 sending unit and I do have an 86 specific sending unit that I was running but ran into some issues like the potentiometer having a break and the pump dying on me. But I’ll swap that back in in the future. Now 87-90 units AMC got smart and made them all interchangeable between the engines and tanks depending on the capacity. So you’ll be fine to run the later sending unit and pump, the pressure regulator on the TBI will handle the rest for ya. Hang on to that TBI sending unit since it is unique to that year

Don’t worry I’ll help get ya squared away and running efficiently.

Oh boy. Those pictures just turned into the longer I look at it the worse it gets. The rear hose on the valve cover should go to the base of the throttle body in the bigger port. We’ve got some work to do.

The connector is for your power steering pressure switch. In 87 AMC changed the TB base to have only two ports available. Those two “open” ports are actually blocked off by the casting. The final picture should have 3 lines going places. One from the map sensor to the manifold one should be from the EGR switch to the EGR I’ll have to snap some pics of mine and where they come from and to where they go. But those two I listed are for sure.

Exactly! I can’t tell ya how long and hard I thought about what changes had happened since I had it emissions tested and then I thought about timing cause I re did the timing chain and tuned it to fire too late when I thought it was proper. But hey! It was a great learning experience for me from the age of carbureted cars.

Nope! Turns out the timing was the problem. It was too retarded and causing it to overheat.

2.5L auto!?!? Holy crap someone just dumped a rare truck.

Ok I thought so. Couldn’t remember if those were made or not. I know the fender liners are all over the place.