eaglescout526

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They are yours! As far as I can tell, they feel like they will operate just fine. Ill shoot you a PM later.

I remember watching project farm do drill bit sharpeners a year or so ago.

I am gonna have to hunt these down now and bling both Jeeps.

Wait. There’s chrome glove box handles?

This Jeep is criminally fun.

Why does a painted bumper make our Jeeps look plasticky?

So back to this car. I still dont have money for it haha. How ever! @89 MJ is here and we took a look at the car. It is confirmed a WS6 car Built the 4th week of January at the Van Nuys plant in CA. With water-based paint in Platinum with Carmine Vinyl Deluxe seats/interior. Neat! Everything about this car is correct and will have to be restored properly now going forward. No Low-bucking this one.

That’s probably why Chrysler did away with that set up. Cause one couldn’t do an on the side of the road bypass. Makes sense now.

Thats really neat. I swear I had seen or heard of something like this somewhere during my research of the Dana cruise control system.

Fun fact, AMC testing procedures for testing the module is to set the pots to a “default” and test and see if cruise control engages at 30mph. That’s the absolute lowest it will engage and set at.

Happy build day Chunk!

Yeah please keep us informed. This is good info right here that I don’t think many people talk about when doing the swap.

Huh. How neat. Will you be able to move the mount forward?

Yeah you need ten. When I did this I ordered new bolts fro ARP I think. Man it was many years ago. If your head bolts come out in hood rust free shape, don’t hesitate to reuse them. If they come out questionable like how bolt 7 probably will because it sits in the water jacket, then I’d get new ones. As far as the two measurements go for 8 and 9, im not sure. You’d have to see what comes out of your head when you do the gasket. But if I recall when I did mine, there supposed to be 3 of the studed bolt. You can always look at what’s on now. Maybe try searching “Jeep 2.5L head bolts” and see what pops up. Pretty sure the bolts went to a 12 point bolt head later on like in the HO years but there should be the hex head too.

Lol! Ya got me.

I think Carter and I are the only ones that can throw off most. Haha.

I know exactly what you’re going through. My eagle is doing the same damn thing. I got the overheating issue solved before charging the AC and now I’m back to over heating again. Though my issue is timing related but I did find something interesting with a spark plug. Heres a story and what I would do. ok two stories. my MJ had a bad headgasket and I drove around like that for a while. Not good for it but I couldn’t afford to bring her down until I had free time. Anyways I drove her around with coolant turning brown and constantly bubbling and boiling until I solved that. The eagle had a bad head gasket and I drove it home like that the first night and I absolutely should not have at all. I dumped evaporusts thermocure in it to help clean out the system and it ended up making the headgasket worse in condition to where I was forced to change it which isn’t a bad thing but the problem became more obvious when I couldn’t drive 3 miles without it overheating. Any car will overheat when climbing hills, just a fact. Course it all also depends on the condition of everything. What I would do first before new hoses and such flush the block, manifold and core separate from each other. Then next is run the big 132oz bottle of evaporust through the cooling system. Let it break up any gunk and remove rust deposits in the block. That way you’ll have the peace of mind knowing the block, radiator, heater core and manifold are clean and clear. Then if the condition of the hoses are crap then replace them. If none of that then I’d move to the expensive stuff like a clutch and radiator

The fact you drove an eagle to school while all your classmates had no idea you were driving something more unique and rare than daddy’s Porsche or Ferrari. Sure the MJ is like that but it’s got the front end of a common place XJ.

92 Accord. Was in the family since new until I destroyed a Ford Taurus with it. Was a good car...Oh well upgraded to an MJ shortly after.

Ahh the Dana cruise control. As long as all else works, the module can be blamed easier than the Renix ECU. I think I’ve got a pile of these back when I was making full kits for folks

Yeah they very well could have something else going on which is probably why they swapped over. But I don’t know many 2.5L owners who swapped to electric. Good luck!!

Makes sense. I went down this rabbit hole and I couldn’t find one that fits. Now if you want you cut out the middle support of the front radiator support you could squeeze in a fan. But I just couldn’t find a fan skinny enough to do what I want. And jamming a mechanical and an electrical together would be quite the sight and a challenge. Maybe what I would do is swap to an e fan and see how you like it. Supposedly 90’s Taurus fits and has two speeds and moves air pretty damn good. I could be wrong on this. I remember someone somewhere did this. Anyways with that you’ll free up HP be doing away with the mechanical. But mechanical is also reliable. For me I was only going to do such to help with the cooling capacity of the 134 that r already doesn’t get with the R12 style condenser. But given the tight spaces, I couldn’t bear to cut or jam it in. The 2.5 runs cool enough but if it ends up overheating, other issues probably are present.

The mechanical fan does pretty good with keeping both radiator and AC cool. I contemplated the same for the summers but there’s just no way to have a pusher electric and a mechanical puller and the only other way would be 4.0 radiator but that’s too much cooling for the 2.5L.

@carolinajeepman