eaglescout526

Top pic is an AW4 TCU for what looks like a 4.0L. Bottom two are headlight warning buzzers.

Possible there is something wrong in the speedo cable.

Boy do I have the wiring schematic for ya! Ill text you some pics for the cluster.

To add on to what 89 said, theres a few thing unique to the XJ Waggy that you can't find new such as the tails, chrome trim, interior pieces, and the front fascia.

XJ's 84-90 or you might have to make one yourself. These brackets are getting harder to come across.

Let one of us know if you need help installing it. Good luck.

Duh, my bad, 30* off.

Well. Lets see. Given the choices for 86, 2.5L, 2.8L V6 or the 2.1L Renault, only two of those engines share the same 90* GM bolt pattern. Your choices are limited to the year 86. I could be wrong on that and I'm sure someone will correct me but you have a Torqueflite A904 auto trans, AX4 and an AX5. If you get lucky and can find a trans that will bolt up behind either the 2.5L and 2.8L that's better than the AX5, you're in luck. If you find an AX15 behind a 2.5L Dakota, well that's the best trans you can put behind either. But if its the Renault, yeah you only get the AX5.

Radiator has a hole in it, so letting it soak with vinegar and water mix might end up being pointless. I don think its the original radiator, does not say Ford anywhere.

So aside from the whole oil thing, I will put some ATF down the cylinders. I am tearing down the carb right now and am discovering it has never been rebuilt and a lot of it is just gummed up and not rusted thank goodness.

Want the long story or the short story? He is fixated on WD40 being the cure-all to rust.

Ill have to get some but I also thought about ATF too. But I gotta get my grandfather to hush and let me put some stuff down there.

Right now the engine has almost a whole can of WD40 in the cylinders. Ill tell a bit of history. Yep, seems like the PO got a rebuild kit from a ford dealership(still operating) here back in 2002. So the PO was set on rebuilding the carb as they replaced the points, cap and rotor thinking it was an ignition issue. Seems to be more on the bad head gasket side. Radiator was full of the same brown crap I found in my MJ. Which isn't a good thing, but who knows. PO has new belts and hoses so hopefully I'm not diving into something bad here. History-It was in my friends family since new. His moms boyfriend, his grandfather had it since new. It got passed on to his dad, his dad passed away a year and a half ago at 71 and got passed on to the boyfriend. So neat to learn it hasn't been anywhere bad. They did have plans to keep it and do stuff with it but they didn't have the place, nor time or money to do much to it. So I'm thinking this motor needs a good soak and it should either move with a big bar or bump the starter to help it.

Yeah....hoping this won’t be too much of a problem. Obviously needs to be rebuilt but here’s hoping that soaking the motor will turn up something good than a stuck motor.

Yup. Carb is seized. Plugs indicate a rich mixture at some point.

Should indeed help. Much appreciated!

Wish I took a pic of the NOS harness I got a year ago. But Blaines drawing is pretty accurate on how it goes. Worse comes to worse, I planned on making these hard lines. Depending on how many of the vac cannisters are around, ill probably make a harness that allows another reservoir to go up by the blower motor. Thanks @Blaine.D!

Do you mean like the MS-1700 scanner or the REM tool?

Oh I'm not in search of a set up for myself, I'm more gathering parts from those who aren't going to add cruise and make complete kits for guys who want to add. Shoot me a PM if you want to part with it.

Yup that's the plan. As far as everything else, nothing is really rusty. Just aged and greasy. Trans linkage is loose but that can be fixed when the car runs and drives.

Lol you might be right on that. But theres not a lot of rust on the linkage so I'm not sure what gives? Unless the internals are gummed up from fuel sitting in the bowl.

So a little bit about the car, everything the owner has circled in the manual is correct. It is a 352Ci with a cruise o matic with a ford 9in with 3.10-1 gear ratio. Tomorrow afternoon I will be going to the car to do a little work and see if the internal will move with no issue. Then see why the carb linkage doesn't want to move. Gonna have to buy some WD-40.

Sending you a PM.

Meant tach, autocorrection from being on the phone. Once you get the tach I can tell you which pins on the diagnostic port the tach goes to.

Alrighty. I’m out and about at the moment but here’s a quick summary of it. You need to connect a tach to two pins on the diag port D2, don’t remember which right now and with the ISA disconnected the idle will be high and loud. You screw the bolt counter clockwise or clockwise until the tach reads 3500 RPM