eaglescout526

Well, I tried testing the injector and got no where. Just a couple small electrical sparks, so I am not sure how the ECU does it but I didn't hear a click or pulse or anything from the injector. Maybe if fuel was around it or in the rail it might do something but that can't be confirmed.

It probably does work, I know theres snake oil out there but I'm not sure if injector cleaner is among the snake oil. I bet the sonic cleaning process could help with ungumming it. I think I will take the spare injector I have and see how exactly it pulses and see if we can get the same results.

Correct on the ECU, just would hate to see ya plop down $100 for an injector when the ECU isn't switching it like it is programmed to. Last I recall AMC used GM's fuel injector for the TBI 2.5L, but for spray rates, this is the first ive heard of it. If there are different part numbers for say the TBI V8 and the TBI I4 by GM, then that would indicate something as far as spray for the injector. But if the numbers are the same, then there probably isn't any significance in the spray patterns. But TBI tech lasted what? A decade before the first MPFI systems to come into play, so probably not much advancement in the TBI department. Well from a quick research I didn't see anything about GM TBI's and their spray patterns. Some goofball posted about testing his injector by "pulsing" it but of course he didn't say how he pulsed it. Another guy said he just had his give up the ghost to where it wouldn't fire anymore(like yours) and others say it could be gummed up and need a cleaning. But hey if you throw in a 90's 350ci TBI injector, I don't see anything changing as the ECU controls the injector pulses but it could have a wider spray pattern but most just show a conical pattern.

Damn does she want to start. Well we have no way of testing the ECU without the proper computer and the noid light seemed to go dim but I can't say much for it "pulsing".

It could be the injector at this point. I think the injector tries to spray but doesn't. Like looking at that timing light kinda showed that it barely sprayed a sneeze of fuel.

Battery probably deserves a good trickle charge.

I don't know how else to test the injector but is it trying to start better than before?

HELL YES!

Yep you can.

Yeah they look beefier than the OEM ones.

So probably the thick orange one. One of those pink wires is for the dome lamps and the other for the crago lamp. I can go look at the '87 electrical manual and see if they moved over to orange wire which they probably did. Wonder why they chose orange to go to pink for the FP.

Says pink with tracer. Unless yours is a late model '86 and the wiring was changed which is kinda what I'm thinking is going on here.

Yes, because we know there is straight batt voltage from the relay to C100. So lets see if it carries on.

What brand of sway bar links did you end up using?

Well theres a couple options for ya. Otherwise I don't have any other testing ideas.

You know, I am not sure. According to the schematic there is only one connector between the pump and C100 and that's the three prong plug. So the only thing I can think of would be to examine the pink with tracer wire and see if theres any breaks or rips in the insulation that could've caused corrosion. My other idea is to plug C100 back in and check the voltage but I believe you have to screw the bolt back in just to get the two halves to seat properly.

Yeah but I don't think the problem will lie in the wiring unless the wiring under the cab got the insulation chewed up from road debris and corroded any exposed wire or theres some resistance in the bulkhead plug.

Doesn't sound like a lot of resistance. Course be better if we has none but that resistance could be anywhere and we aren't looking to tear up the interior and fuse block just to find it. Alright lets slap her back together.

No sorry. It was an after thought of my prior statement. Probe it before you reconnect it. I want to see if theres any more resistance in the line. I would probe it from the engine bay and see how far you can bring the FP connector to you.

Perfect! No resistance from the relay to the block. Hopefully meaning no more rooting around in the engine bay harness. Now let see what we get at the pump once you get it all back together. I'm not sure how possible it is but are you able to probe 100_F4 on the bulk head to the FP connector? If you can we should get an Ωhm reading on that.

I did say I didn't think it was that accurate right? Lol. Anyways that's good those have batt voltage so there's no resistance there. Lets see where number four is.

I think this is gonna be a fun cruising car. I think I already have an idea on how I want to do the brake master cylinder. But first things first, either find the black widow or burn the car down. Lol. But aside from that for how good the interior looks you ought to think it should run right out of the box, I will have to see when I hit that point.

Yeah whether the relay is in the socket or not, we will still find the three that are hot. No worries about talking out loud, helps one to think.

Ok so you found the three that are hot. Now the fourth one shall become hot when you put in the jumper. Leaving the relay in while finding the first three was fine. Once the fourth one is found we need to see how many volts are getting there.

Yeah I would be skeptical on how accurate it is but it'll get figured out.