eaglescout526

M8x1.25. AMC part number is 8934201604 Mopar 34201604 GM number is 11502693 I recommend looking up the GM number as that’s easier to find than mopar or AMC.

Why not? That’s basically what the black colored bumpers are.

It’s probably a 3.55 ratio. @jdog I appreciate the help with these.

That’s 86-87 only color.

Got a box of goodies today, stuff that will help with the engine to run right and what not. Apparently there’s a vac check valve on the back of the manifold that goes to a smaller hose. I didn’t know this until I found the part online and all I had was a terrible plastic hose connector holding the two hoses together. So that’s fixed. Also replaced some rubber tubes that go from the valve cover to the filter housing. Also got my interior lights working again. Stupid door switches. I should suspected this after working on Jeeps haha. Glad that’s working, shortens my list down quite a bit. Added power steering fluid, pump didn’t sound happy but it’ll get better as it cycles fluid through it. I’ll probably have to flush the fluid a few times before it’s a happy pump again but hey, power steering works. Also found a leak at the oil filter, so that accelerates the idea of doing an oil change. Once I got the new check valve in and made sure everything was good I got it fired up again and it sounds better and takes on fuel better than previously. Got it to idle at 1k and then warmed up to 750. Played with the choke some as it kept dying once it tried to get to 750 to idle. Got that squared away but I’ll definitely need to replace the tabs that are supposed to hold the choke in place. Fuel cap has also been replaced with a standard one.

What they don’t tell ya is it’s worth every penny….unless you make a bad choice in a product.

Hmmm. Now that you point out the meaning of those symbols on the back it would be hypocritical of me to run this oil. Seeing gas and diesel on the label is misleading and made me think it should be regular oil and none of that special diesel oil blend. I wonder if my grandfather had this stuff from when he owned a diesel Mercedes for a bit.

Yeah those have to be replaced anytime the pads get worn down which is unfortunate but the system operates just fine without them and considers the unplugged sensor as ok.

Damn near close actually. The only ones that are the same is the coolant and washer sensors.

Lol gotta find the lid and sensor. I was talking with another member, if you have the low washer circuit set up and working, you could essentially use the plug for the washer level sensor and use it on the brake, coolant or power steering if you wanted to.

That’s all I needed to know. Course I’d just like to use this oil as a flush and light use. Say maybe 100 miles or maybe a run time of 4 hours total.

Yes sir! Funny enough there’s nothing special about the master itself, just the lid.

I appreciate the input on the diesel oil but I am staying away from that stuff. I’ll run engine oil with a 1/4-1/2 a quart of ATF before running diesel oil in any of my engines. I’m just more curious on what was commonly used in the 70’s and 80’s as I don’t have an original owners manual at the moment and I haven’t looked in the Hayes manual I have but I know I have the oil above that I can use since it’s free and figured I’d get some opinions on the use of said oil.

The two options AMC said you couldn’t do. Well done!

Oh shoot. I forgot about this method. My grandfather taught me this when I was cleaning my bike white walls. Except it was with comet

It could be trashed by the sun depending on where those were located.

Hahahaha hey whatever works. A tech at work has a mustang seat as his workbench chair.

I love the rear couch. Hahaha.

You could always do it the Arizona way and buy some rubber vac line to go over the hard line and just use some of the plastic tube to connect to the other side.

Here’s the oil in question. If I had to say I think this is the 90’s. I am not sure what engine my grandfather had that required this stuff unless it was on sale.

Ok so I thought I had more 20w50 but I have a lot of 15w40(regular, don’t go bananas guys. It’s older penzoil stuff)from my grandfather to use so it’s just as good to run it for a bit.

I think the oil pressure is between 40 and 60 from what I remember seeing but I haven’t had the car run long enough to get to temp nor drive it yet. Been trying to figure out all the vac lines and what not.

I trust the one in the car, it generates 40 psi and maybe a bit more. I will probably have to hook up a mechanical to make sure the gauge isn’t lying but I also haven’t done much ground cleaning yet. But it sounds healthy for only 62k on the clock.