eaglescout526

Yes there were without a doubt some that rolled off. I actually have one NOS switch that I am keeping for historic and educational purposes and I lack the bracket that mounts to the clutch pedal. I don’t think any of the harnesses I ever got for cruise control we’re manual and if one is I need to set it aside for the same purposes. I’ll dig out what ever I find today and post it for informative purposes only. Now the switch above the brake pedal is one of two switches. One that’s for the 4wd setup(I think) and the other is just a valve that when the brake is pushed, dumps all vacuum pressure from the system and has to be resumed by the stalk due to the separate brake switch that pauses cruise control. And as far as the computer box colors go, I have no idea on the significance in that. I’ve seen yellow, black, orange and gray for the old sold by Dana kits. I don’t think there’s anything different between any of them except maybe hardware used internally.

Good luck, I’ve searched and searched and searched and no one seems to make anything like that. The cruise setup is an old Dana set up from the 70’s. Stuff now that has a clutch got the switch from the clutch switch the ECU uses on a modern day car. Now I suppose if you wanted you could use such but it probably won’t fit the plug on the harness. Like I said it’s not really necessary to have. I run the automatic set up on mine with no clutch switch. Plus you will have to make a bracket of some sort to mount the switch. But I’ll locate all that stuff today for ya.

Sounds good, let me know and I will shoot you a PM

No, i have been having members who buy the kit to order new cables. But yes I can supply you with the rest of the parts.

I have all if those parts, except the clutch one which honestly isnt important to the operation of cruise control and works fine as an automatic set up. I am surprised you didnt buy a kit from me or jump on the list.

Same. I scrapped my old washer without thinking about how good of floor pans they make for our Jeeps.

Out with the old and in with the new. Here goes and I will have a nice solid new floor for this XJ. Once that’s done I start putting in new wiring for all the power options and future fuel injection.

More than what I saw this year. I think I saw maybe 1 or 2.

34202160. Ouch. The number floating around out there has dwindled.

I finally got around to doing the insulation for the roof! Sounds pretty nice and quiet and not so hollow and should hopefully keep the summer heat out and the cool in. No need for pics cause I’m not too proud of the job I did. Also I entered into a car show this weekend, so Friday I’ll go get little red a bath and have her looking nice and spiffy for the show.

Yikes ok yeah that warrants replacement.

Lower-53006180 upper-53009001 Looks like crown still makes both. Just give the part numbers a Google search and you’ll find a vendor.

The 96” ones are fine and will work. I make the kits and I used to buy the ones from crown with no issues at all as they worked on either drive set up. The adaptor is most likely NLA anywhere, that being said, what is wrong with yours? Usually those don’t fail and almost never need replacing. I’ll get a part number here soon for the cable to reference.

And I’m done. Now to clean up and be able to set the drivers seat back in for the first time in months.

I’ve got some. Still quite a bit out there as NOS. someone was also 3D printing them.

I did but didnt. It’s one of my NOS coolant level sensors. I know there’s a couple of the sensors out there at dealers as NOS.

Finally some major progress. I switched metals I was using, went from sheet metal from Chrysler scrap to a dryer haha. Learned that one from a street MJ member and boy is it some damn good metal. I honestly can’t justify spending the amount for keyparts floor pans. Anywho I’ve got it down now and am almost done with the drivers side front. I’ll be able to move on to the either the pass front or the drivers rear pan. I don't know which one I want to tackle yet.

Hole saw showed up so I got this done Now it’s proper and set up.

Okie dokie. I’ll work on getting something written up. Honestly the life saving thing factor here was having the XJ harness of the same year range.

3 and a half hours later and I have the low washer warning lamp working. Take a look at the “adding low washer warning” thread to see how I did it. But I will say adding it took bit of a mental toll seeing how I had to take the C100 apart twice to add two wires that didn’t exist at all on the MJ dash harness. I truly do wonder why AMC didn’t just have the wiring there seeing how AMC offered a single pump reservoir with the sensor but I digress.

Yes, you just don’t want it to be a constant 12v to the switch otherwise the light will be on till the battery dies. And yup! Now I just need a big enough circle saw to fit the sensor tightly into the washer bottle.

You could and honestly the power wire can go anywhere so long as the power is a switched power source like the radio and lamp fuses. I guess my concern with the turn/BU lamp fuse is that the light would probably illuminate only at that time when either the signals are called for or the back up lamps.

So both wires are present on the engine side. They are not present on the cab side. They have to be added. Purple with orange tracer to radio fuse and white with black tracer to slot 15 on the info center plug. It’s not too bad of a job so long you have an XJ dash harness doing nothing with the two wires and a free 3-4 hours doing this. Granted it will be less now that I figured it all out. Would I do this again to another MJ? No. Would I do it if the MJ had no interior, sure! So long you have an XJ harness doing nothin. But it’s added and here’s proof of it working:

Ok I’ve hit a point where I’m gonna keep going on this but this is not worth the effort. So the MJ harness is very specific at this point. To add the low washer you also need to give the plug power which it does not have and the power wire for the plug goes into the cab and is controlled by the radio fuse. So it’s switched and adding it directly to battery power is not advised here unless you want to end up with a dead battery.

Yes and right now I still don’t have the lamp illuminating. Working on it right now. Bulb is confirmed good.