ghetdjc320

Good info! The sbt box says it will convert the 8k to 128k which is supposedly what the dbw wants. I was planning on splitting the speedo signal before it goes into the Dakota box. That way the speedo sees the stock Jeep sensor info like stock. From what I gather, the stock vette system runs the vr (ac) vss at 128k ppm direct to the ecu then the ecu has a speedo gauge output at a much lower ppm (4K??). Looks like the tach signal also comes from the ecu to the tach in a stock setup. So @Limeyjeeper let me know if this sounds right: Jeep Hall effect 3 wire sensor out with the signal split between the Jeep speedometer and the Dakota digital unit input, then from the Dakota digital calibrated output to the high/low 2 wire ac input on the ecu. Tach out from the ecu to the Dakota box then calibrated tach signal out to the Jeep tachometer. I do love that the Dakota box provides a 5v sensor reference power and ground that I can use with the newer style Jeep vss. Ultimately, the speedo gear will also have to be correct for the tire and gear ratio to provide the correct ppm readings for the speedo and ecu. Keep in mind that my wire colors are not stock for my LS harness.

Most all the wiring has been routed now. Tail harness now includes a pair of 10am wires for a power outlet in the bed. The air locker line is also a part of the tail harness. For gauge senders, after consulting with Limey and reviewing the ls specs, the ecu needs to see ect but not oil pressure. The head on the drivers side already has the ect sensor for the pcm. I’ll be adding the Jeep gauge sensor to the passenger side using the appropriate metric to 1/8 npt adapter. I will replace the oil sender on the engine with the Jeep one.

I agree. The factory wiring really needed a good modernization and some better fore thought. A bit of a challenge in the factory wiring is that they have integrated power train and chasis electrical at many points on the harness. Although I do have to interlace some wiring on this swap, it’s very little. The stock Jeep VSS was 8k ppm so I’m running the Dakota sgt-100bt to modify that to the appropriate 128k ppm the ls pcm is looking for. Apparently I could also just reprogram the ls ecu to read the 8k ppm but it doesn’t give a smooth reading for cruise control with the drive by wire system. Also been adding all the wiring for extras. The dash switches will be something like: fog, compressor, front locker, rear locker, winch power and winch in and out. Also have heated seats, audio amp, aux USB ports, power mirrors, windows and locks, bed lighting and a bed mounted 12v outlet. Ended up scraping the idea of mounting the ecu under the dash. It fits but it would be a real pain to access for tuning. Mounted it and the DBW module to the drivers side inner fender.

It fits the same hole. You just need to drill out the mounting bolt holes a tiny bit. It has a huge amount of connection possibilities. One note though is that the fuse block is physically larger as it has more circuits than the stock one did. Even has power window and locks fused circuits built in. I really like the amount of customization it offers though. The ignition and turn signal switches are almost plug and play as is the dimmer switch. The wipers took quite a bit of work to incorporate the intermittent function. Some circuits are opposite of Jeep as well such as the washer motor circuit. The painless wiring provides ground but the jeep signal provided power through the turn signal switch. The wiring is the same either way as the motor just gets whatever you send down the line but the painless circuitry is a better design as it’s not flowing power through switches all over the place.

Electrical continues. Once I wrapped my head around a few tricky points (like the intermittent wiper wiring and cross cab wiring) it’s been pretty smooth sailing. It’s nice to have all these extra connectors in this kit to route wiring through the bulkhead connector. Keeps the firewall very clean. Not planning on running any specific relay center either. A few of the engine relays will be under the dash. Fan relays I’ll mount near the fans. Going to grab the arb compressor and route its wiring along with a small 4 channel amp wiring through the bulkhead connector. Had to add two wires and reroute some power from the painless bulkhead setup to power the wipers correctly. I didn’t want to delete the intermittent feature so I tracked down all the factory diagrams to get the wiring replicated. Also placed the correct vin tag on the dash and riveted it in place. Noticed that my wiper motor shaft was broken once I disassembled it! New one on order. Installed the door lock actuator on the drivers side and tested the window switches. All works great. Extremely easy to add keyless entry in these rigs in the passenger side of the cross cab harness. Contemplating any other electrical accessories I’d like to add into the harness.

Had to readjust the window regulator. Finished most of the door wiring. Just need to get the new latches in and grab a riveter to install the actuators. The window works excellent now and the glass has almost zero play. Feels like a solid factory option now. Started on the chasis harness as well. Ignition, turn and dimmer switches all wires now. Decided to switch to the GM headlight switch since I needed a new switch anyways and the painless interface prefers GM components anyways. Working on getting all the wire routing taken care of which is really the majority of the work. Soaked the rubber accordion door wiring seals in diesel for a month and they are better than new.

Have a question to add to this discussion. I have the door and cross body harness all from the 95 XJ. The drivers side door harness is from a 2dr. There is a 6 position red connector that has two wires coming into it from the rubber switch block and two going out to the door lock actuator. This appears to be some sort of maybe a sentry or keyless module. Can I just remove it and splice those wires together? Here is a picture of the offending connector: Tagging @Minuit & @youngfred Also need to sort out which lines need to get power and relays in the new crosscab harness.

Same here

There was a crown part number on these floating around recently. Iirc the application was a different model Jeep though. The replacement ones I got about 2 years ago were not oem but some aftermarket ones with a double sided adhesive. Think I got them from teamcherokee but can’t recall for sure

Looking for a pair of those wind/rain seals that got between the a pillar and door. They are riveted to the a pillar here:

Have to do some more alignment work but here are the basics. Door glass swap to the 97+ style and added power regulators.

Try using a bolt extractor or use the next step down on a standard socket instead of metric and hammer it on.

That was some nice work!

No, the vast majority is plastic. There is only a metal skeleton.

Did you use justdashes? There is extra material usually in the radio opening on a stock dash. The OP could probably trim a little piece of that and get it matched.

You can swap the housings. You can also just drill and tap for a 3/8 npt bung. Very easy in the soft aluminum tstat housing.

Like I said, the 4 leafs have more free arch. About 1” higher than the standard 5 leaf pack.

The dash has a metal frame but is mostly plastic duct work. @Limeyjeeper I believe had his dash refinished. I managed to find an original in perfect condition. Plenty of conditioner and it is nice and soft vinyl again.

Good reminder. Mine was set correctly for basically “zero lash” out of the box fortunately. I was really thinking of going hydroboost with this truck and may still in the near future. This build is going to slow down here for the next few months as work picks up and the weather is uncooperative

I believe it’s just the compression that is adjustable on the 9000 correct? Or can you adjust the rebound too? I’ll let everyone know when I can get back to making those. I’m just slammed right now.

Changing front coils is easy. Just set the back and adjust the front

I can’t speak in regards to the military wrap springs as I don’t know if they are using 2 overload springs in that pack or just one. I’m just referring to the standard off the shelf 4 leaf vs 5 leaf pack from GS. The 4 leafs nets more lift than the regular 5 leaf. The 4 leaf pack should level you out pretty well and they hardly squat with a bed load of concrete. You can always do a mild shackle lift to dial it in from there. The RE will probably give you about 3.5” once they settle depending on your bumper, winch, engine combo

LS ecu mounted in old Renix location. Has to be clocked pretty much in this exact position to not interfere with anything.