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I’ll throw this out there for the axle swap equation. I’ve mentioned this before but if you’re contemplating going with a Ford 8.8, consider keeping the D35 or going with a D44 with 33’s. You’ll have actually better clearance than you would with that 8.8 on 35’s. No fender cutting, less unsprung weight, less strain on your suspension, gears, transmission, clutch, steering etc. and just as much clearance as 35’s in an 8.8 (which is too narrow, has c clips and thinner tubes). I’ve been down this rabbit hole before. 35’s can be a challenge on an MJ. I’d suggest 33’s with 5-6” lift and soa or just go 37’s and bigger axles. The front dana 30 will be a weak spot as well going any bigger than 35’s. Even 35’s can be too much for it. If you have a pre 90’ d35, it is a bolt in style axle with no c clips. Same tube size as the D44 from the MJ as well. Run some quality 4340 axles in it and full case locker of your choice. They can be stout axles if properly setup.

I have all custom wiring but I just ran 12v fused from my power distribution block, pinned through the bulkhead connector and routed to the tail section along with all the tail lights and fuel wiring. I have 2 12awg wires bonded together I’m using to power a 12v outlet in the bed and the under rail lights.

Exactly my point . And now I can’t find the message that I received about them. Not cheap but pretty nice. Saw them about 2 weeks ago on a thread I can’t find. It was in a reply in the wanted section so it could have been deleted already or my search skills are severely lacking

This wouldn’t replace anything in our classifieds section, it would just be for new parts and companies making Comanche specific items so we can keep up to date with what’s out there. As for links going dead, it doesn’t even really have to be links. Just a single line like: Splash shields - Detroit Muscle Body panels - Key Parts & C2C Etc

It seems like I'm getting a link to some new MJ product every week now, which is awesome! Was wondering how everyone felt about compiling a resources page where we could keep up to date with the latest products available for our MJ's. For instance: Husky makes floor liners that fit that are XJ specific and fit the MJ almost like the impossible to find OEM ones. Detroit muscle makes some Comanche splash shields. Oracle is making new tail lights. Someone sent me a link to a company reproducing the MJ sports bars. There is a company making MJ specific roll cages. Key parts is repoping so many new pieces now. This is in addition to our many vendors. There are so many more examples but I was thinking we could combine and organize that info into a single post and keep adding and deleting info as it becomes available very similar to the style of the DIY master thread index. That way new MJ owners (or those of us who misplaced or forgot about a new part) could reference a single "resources" post. Any thoughts?

Update on this thread: I just placed the order for my turbine center cap versions. Had to do some back and forth renderings with the manufacturer but I have a set that will be finished in about a month. I’ll keep everyone updated. If they turn out as expected then I’ll post availability.

I'm going to be running both in my current build but I’m going to use the aftermarket light listed above if @Dzimm can make a gasket for it. Lights under the bed rail are great for fishing things out of the bed but I really like the cargo lamp for illuminating larger objects and especially when working behind the truck. Plus I’m using the rolling hardtop cover so bedlights and cargo lights will complement each other. My bedlights will be jamb switch activated by opening the tailgate but the cargo lamp will have the dash switch like oem. The stock cargo lamp was not bright at all but the modeI used above is just over 700 lumens and worked great as a work light.

The factory cargo light i had was great while it lasted but unfortunately, the plastic they used to make it got extremely brittle in the tropical sun and started cracking on its own. Pretty much the entire piece is transparent plastic that is painted on the inside. The one I replaced it with was a quality piece with aluminum body and stainless hardware.

I’ll dm you the link. I was going to put together a kit for this some time back with wiring harness, new switch and bezel along with the lamp and gasket.

Here is the light I used in the past. Cast aluminum housing with polycarbonate lens. Nice and bright plus waterproof. Just need a good gasket that has a bit of a wedge design.

There is a nice led light that is pretty close to the shape and design of the oem one but it did need a good base. Sounds like something @Dzimm could make. I’m guessing it’s the same material as the tailgate bumpers if those are UV stable.

I wish we could get someone to reproduce the actual cargo lamp. I asked OGR about this but they didn’t reply. I’m guessing they are too busy. They are very compact an i would think someone could just wake the shell. We could use a small led strip inside for the light itself.

Anyone seen these available yet? Figures they would come out right after I found a decent used one

There’s another one on there also but I think it’s about $90

Any pics of how that sits?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/13131_1003_14.htm They’re available from Omix but they are nos supply they must have bought at some point. Just make sure to leave me a couple

I ran the mishimoto radiator with that clutch and it cleared just fine. That was on stock Mopar engine mounts

Good to know on the urethane . The “ultra black” rtv held up remarkably well for me in sunlight (used for my cargo lamp seal) and I would suspect that the bond line in the tail light housings shouldn’t be exposed to much UV. I plan to add some ceramic coating to these lenses as well every couple of years to prevent UV deterioration. Sounds like lexel might be a good off the shelf option.

That should work great! I’ll order up a pair of those then after I take one last look on fleabay for a set of limited black door panels. Here are some more pics and dimensions for reference:

Obviously the door panel opening is smaller on the non-accusound XJs. Just wondering how they would fit. My current plan was just to make a little grill using some thin birch and speaker grill cloth. I had been on the lookout for a long time for some nice black limited door panels but never found anything. I’m also dealing with speaker depth issues due to the full size window. I have about 1 7/8 of useable top mount depth if I go woth 5.25 speakers in the stock location. I was planning on also making a simple spacer ring and bring the speakers out another 3/16” or so. My goal is to have a good sealed barrier between the front and back of the speaker. I’ll use a piece of eggcrate style foam behind the speaker mounted to the inside of the outer door shell to reduce back waves. Probably use about a 12x12 piece just as a dampener in addition to plenty of Dynamat to keep the panels from vibrating as much. I also have some 1/8 minicell foam I plan to use instead of (or in addition to) the water shield to give a good seal between the door panel and door shell.

I’ve seen some NOS recently. Was wondering though, are they the same width as the factory “louvered” styler grills? Just want to make sure they would fully cover the original opening. Here is the opening size:

I would think something like “the right stuff” or “mega black” rtv should stick very well. “Ultra black” is what seadoo uses to seal most of their through hull fittings. 3m 5200 or 4200 would also be a great option. The 5209 isn’t UV stable but it’s shouldn’t ever be in direct sunlight if installed correctly. Sika’s website lists “Sika Sil” as their recommended headlight adhesive. Windshield urethane would also no doubt do the job if the surfaces were properly prepped. My personal inclination is to use Lexel. Available in most any hardware store. UV stable, semi flexible with a pretty strong bond. Plus it’s crystal clear. There are probably many adhesives that would do the trick. The Sika Sil is a silicone base adhesive sealant from what I can gather. There are a lot of options for alternative silicone based adhesive caulks. A urethane based adhesive would probably have an even greater bond but I can’t see a tailight needing something like that. Plus, it would likely be a permanent bond so a future lens swap may no longer be an option

@SoCalJeepComanche Not sure if he has it or not but I’m sure he could get the decal printed

It’s all in the valving. There are great riding twin tube shocks and horrible riding mono tube reservoir shocks and everything in between.

It might be good to see how high your lift currently sits. There is a thread about this in the diy section.