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Modern “Street Comanche” clone using the new OGR body kit? That would be cool! Otherwise, a clean restoration would be nice too

Has anyone here down an ax15 tear down? How far into it do you have to go to get to the thrust bearing? Wanting to upgrade mine due to the extra torque and HP with the Marlin Crawler upgrade bearing

I also had some passenger side inner fender damage and got a cutout from an XJ and grafted it on. The damage in yours is all in front of the motor mounts and is most certainly salvageable albeit a lot of work. Whoever repairs it can sleeve the uniframe rail and weld in a new piece

Yep that’s right. These are identical to oem so you’re just replacing a damaged part with another original part. Should be a non issue

I also deal with similar issues as I’ll be bringing my latest build back overseas with me. The quality of these is great and should have no problems as you will just be restoring what should have been there. As for US regulations, our trucks no longer fall under epa regulations for import but you could possibly request an MSO from a Jeep dealership. They just pull the vin, confirm it was built in the US and issue a letter. That’s a nice form to have.

Yep, also had him delete the emissions schematic, change the plug gaps and emission tuning info.

Custom labels in for this project. Can you spot the differences? Thanks to @SoCalJeepComanche for making these and spending the time to customize them for the build.

No need to cryo treat gears or invest more than you would in any other axle especially once you figure the cost of most junkyard swaps which require: new brakes, new bearings, possibly regearing, new perches and shock tabs, plus the initial cost of the axle. There is a use case scenario for a D35 in an MJ if the lift and tires will be mild. An 8.8 doesn’t last long on tires above 35” so it’s hard to see where an 8.8 fits into the mix on an MJ. It’s a heavy axle and somewhat clumsy axle for an off-road vehicle. Smallish disk brakes, an excessively large pumpkin for the size of the axle, too narrow for an MJ (even the stock 35 and 44 could have been a bit wider), and .188 wall tubes (that need to be welded better to the pumpkin). The 8.8 has its uses as a swap axle but it’s better off in narrower Jeeps if you can get the axle cheap enough. Yes there is a 4.10 LSD option but because of the notoriety of the swap, those ratios are much harder to find for a decent price. Junkyard axle swaps are like engine swaps. They cost a lot more than just the initial purchase to do it right.

I’d try to find an oem copper core if you can.

I’ll throw this out there for the axle swap equation. I’ve mentioned this before but if you’re contemplating going with a Ford 8.8, consider keeping the D35 or going with a D44 with 33’s. You’ll have actually better clearance than you would with that 8.8 on 35’s. No fender cutting, less unsprung weight, less strain on your suspension, gears, transmission, clutch, steering etc. and just as much clearance as 35’s in an 8.8 (which is too narrow, has c clips and thinner tubes). I’ve been down this rabbit hole before. 35’s can be a challenge on an MJ. I’d suggest 33’s with 5-6” lift and soa or just go 37’s and bigger axles. The front dana 30 will be a weak spot as well going any bigger than 35’s. Even 35’s can be too much for it. If you have a pre 90’ d35, it is a bolt in style axle with no c clips. Same tube size as the D44 from the MJ as well. Run some quality 4340 axles in it and full case locker of your choice. They can be stout axles if properly setup.

I have all custom wiring but I just ran 12v fused from my power distribution block, pinned through the bulkhead connector and routed to the tail section along with all the tail lights and fuel wiring. I have 2 12awg wires bonded together I’m using to power a 12v outlet in the bed and the under rail lights.

Exactly my point . And now I can’t find the message that I received about them. Not cheap but pretty nice. Saw them about 2 weeks ago on a thread I can’t find. It was in a reply in the wanted section so it could have been deleted already or my search skills are severely lacking

This wouldn’t replace anything in our classifieds section, it would just be for new parts and companies making Comanche specific items so we can keep up to date with what’s out there. As for links going dead, it doesn’t even really have to be links. Just a single line like: Splash shields - Detroit Muscle Body panels - Key Parts & C2C Etc

It seems like I'm getting a link to some new MJ product every week now, which is awesome! Was wondering how everyone felt about compiling a resources page where we could keep up to date with the latest products available for our MJ's. For instance: Husky makes floor liners that fit that are XJ specific and fit the MJ almost like the impossible to find OEM ones. Detroit muscle makes some Comanche splash shields. Oracle is making new tail lights. Someone sent me a link to a company reproducing the MJ sports bars. There is a company making MJ specific roll cages. Key parts is repoping so many new pieces now. This is in addition to our many vendors. There are so many more examples but I was thinking we could combine and organize that info into a single post and keep adding and deleting info as it becomes available very similar to the style of the DIY master thread index. That way new MJ owners (or those of us who misplaced or forgot about a new part) could reference a single "resources" post. Any thoughts?

Update on this thread: I just placed the order for my turbine center cap versions. Had to do some back and forth renderings with the manufacturer but I have a set that will be finished in about a month. I’ll keep everyone updated. If they turn out as expected then I’ll post availability.

I'm going to be running both in my current build but I’m going to use the aftermarket light listed above if @Dzimm can make a gasket for it. Lights under the bed rail are great for fishing things out of the bed but I really like the cargo lamp for illuminating larger objects and especially when working behind the truck. Plus I’m using the rolling hardtop cover so bedlights and cargo lights will complement each other. My bedlights will be jamb switch activated by opening the tailgate but the cargo lamp will have the dash switch like oem. The stock cargo lamp was not bright at all but the modeI used above is just over 700 lumens and worked great as a work light.

The factory cargo light i had was great while it lasted but unfortunately, the plastic they used to make it got extremely brittle in the tropical sun and started cracking on its own. Pretty much the entire piece is transparent plastic that is painted on the inside. The one I replaced it with was a quality piece with aluminum body and stainless hardware.

I’ll dm you the link. I was going to put together a kit for this some time back with wiring harness, new switch and bezel along with the lamp and gasket.

Here is the light I used in the past. Cast aluminum housing with polycarbonate lens. Nice and bright plus waterproof. Just need a good gasket that has a bit of a wedge design.

There is a nice led light that is pretty close to the shape and design of the oem one but it did need a good base. Sounds like something @Dzimm could make. I’m guessing it’s the same material as the tailgate bumpers if those are UV stable.

I wish we could get someone to reproduce the actual cargo lamp. I asked OGR about this but they didn’t reply. I’m guessing they are too busy. They are very compact an i would think someone could just wake the shell. We could use a small led strip inside for the light itself.

Anyone seen these available yet? Figures they would come out right after I found a decent used one

There’s another one on there also but I think it’s about $90

Any pics of how that sits?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/13131_1003_14.htm They’re available from Omix but they are nos supply they must have bought at some point. Just make sure to leave me a couple