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I run an aftermarket moroso tranny cooler and am going to install the transgo shift kit soon in mine but that tranny has never slipped, failed to shift or acted up at all. And I’ve pulled some serious weight with my MJ. I just keep it out of overdrive if towing and keep the fluids and filter fresh. Not to keen on the shifting points as it’s always wanting to downshift ahead of schedule on me but the transgo kit will take care of that.

Same here. Quite a bulletproof tranny.

Do you already have a double cardan shaft you just need adjusted? If so it should be much cheaper. If you need a new driveshaft with double cardan and slip shaft it will be in that price range. I run a tom woods rear DS and it was about $500

Ooh very nice!

Thats, right. I guess I can add that to the list. Here are my NOS finds: Black trim and silver trim tail lights MJ Coin Lots of misc stuff but the best things are the above

would you like to part with one grey model with rivets?

Best thing I can suggest is to finish your product and take good pics. You have to demonstrate that you can repeat the process too, so you’ll want to make more than one cover. I did the same with the switch trim covers. I have a stack of failed prototypes lol but that’s the way it goes. Once you have a product and price, post up in the “vendors” section and see what interest there is.

It’s two different styles. The rubber one is the outer gasket at the slider and the u shaped felt goes on the track inside.

It went through sometime while I was asleep last night but let’s just say I wasn’t going to loose this one lol

Picked up the NOS coin.

Trying to track down this molding. Took some detailed pics of it. Anyone have any ideas?

Sounds good. Keep an eye on this thread and I’ll let everyone know when they’re ready. Gathering parts in the mean time.

Good info! I used marine grease on all the bushings and mine are respectably fast as well

So does the XJ unit fit the same or what are the differences. Will need to replace my HO unit soon

I haven’t created a list yet but suppose I will start soon. I’m finishing up some switch bezels this week and then will be slammed at work for a month or two. After that I’m planning to focus on these projects. I have one non-ac panel like that one. I’m planning on having a core exchange. I’d pay for the old core that you can send me once you receive your new one. That way we don’t hold up shipping forever and I can keep a rebuild supply.

well, I’ll start off by saying that I am pretty used to towing big loads. The springs are stock 4x4 springs. Trailer didn’t have brakes. For steering, right now I run ZJ linkage with a psc box and pump. No issues at all with steering or driveability other than needing to give myself lots of room to stop.

In regards to the brakes, you will need significantly more pressure to drive rear disks. Despite assumptions to the contrary, stock drums actually have more stopping power than stock disks. However, there are many other reasons to swap. Self adjusting, easier maintenance and better performance (cooling and self cleaning) are at the top of my list. Plus a parking brake that works in both directions. The load sensing valve may work in a pinch if you lengthen the rod to sit higher than normal when level. I deleted mine along with the distribution block a long time ago. Ran all new lines, rear disks, Wilwood prop valve, 2000 XJ booster and MC. Never looked back. But going to add some Wilwood fronts eventually. in regards to the sway bar, I haven’t seen one retained from an 8.8 but adco makes a rear MJ sway bar that some hear have used. For the perches, it’s best to install the axle and get all your measurements just right. Pinion angle is critical plus centering the axle to the truck. Once you have that setup just hit it with a few tack welds then take it out and burn it in

Just finished tcase install and all issues have been solved. While I had it out I blasted and degreased the tranny tunnel and gave it a nice coat of dominion sure seal liner. Took it for a test drive and it’s working great. No noise, no leaks and super smooth. On to the next project (rebuild ebrake assembly)

Just finished the tcase refurb. Lots of cleanup but I wanted everything clean under there. Going to let the sealant cure overnight then cleanup the tranny tunnel and crossmember before reinstalling everything. Took plenty of time to clean and inspect the entire case. To remove the problematic bearing, a strong precision screwdriver did the trick to start folding in one side. See pics for details:

Just grab one from rock auto

Every project is a can of worms on a 30 year old truck but I’ve been taking my time and getting everything working as it should. Doing a rear disk swap and revamping all the rear brake lines, axle lines, vent etc. Had to remove the truss to get things down just right.

Let me know! I’d be happy to grab them

It’s best to keep the bolt in right side up so at the very least gravity keeps it from falling out. Make sure to use lock washers under the nylock nut also.

Wheel spacers are safer at this point than shaving that bolt. The misalignment spacers on the top of your knuckles under the heim could also be a bit shorter.

I plan on picking up several cores over the next couple months. It’s not to cost effective for me shipping wise to just get one panel at a time but if someone has a few they would like to get rid of that would be nice