Backroads

My gas gauge doesnt seem to be 100% correct, and I havent filled up a jerry can to really run it dry. But with 5 speed and a 4 banger, with filling up from around the same 'empty' point on my gauge I'm getting around 15MPGs at almost 200K.

sheesh man someones been diggin in the archives!

I have not, I'm not so engine savvy in knowing whats do-able in older jeeps. I've only ever had newer jeeps with 4.0's

Thanks for the replies. I was definately planning an entire driveline swap at the same time. ax15 and 231tc. Also was factoring in the wiring swap as well, and I agree buying a parts vehicle with a 4.0 is probably the way to go, then just transfer everything over. I'm not disagreeing about the 4.0 fitting, but I thought I read someones build on here that stuck a 4.0 in without any modifications? Maybe he or I was wrong about the MJ year ;) As far as building the stroker, I would be heavily depending on the machine shop to help me alone with quench height and overall static and dynamic compression ratios. But I agree, that is definately what shyed me away from building one in the past...and part of the reason behind this post. I would hate to tear my MJ apart, redo the entire thing...to end up with a pinging 4._ stroker... Now if I was to get a donor xj/mj, I'm guessing renix era is going to be the easiest to swap over (being the 4.0 I'm getting is an 89)?

As stated and in my sig as well, I have an 86 MJ with the 2.5, 5 speed etc etc. I already know about the hood latch, and other obvious underhood differences in the 86 year. But I'm wondering what other issues there are with swappin a 4.0 into an 86 chassis. I'm acquiring a complete 4.0 from an 89 XJ shortly, for one hell of a deal....free. Ran good, long story short he donated the vehicle to a fab company and they didnt want the engine... I'm also about to score on a set of rods and crank from a 258 I6, SO theres potential stroker building in the future. Obviously all of that change makes me nervous. I shyed away from building a stroker before, but did my research and have a fair knowledge of the build. So I guess what I would like some opinions on, are installing a 4.0 into my MJ, what wiring I should gather, or buy a spare XJ and use its harness etc? Also other things you might know of that I might take into consideration being that its an 86. Granted this is all down the road as I currently kinda like the little 2.5, and its running well. But in my spare time, it would just be fun to build a stroker as a back burner kinda project. I just don't wanna waste the time and money if you guys think its gonna be a giant headache....minor headache would be acceptable :dunce:

can't help ya with the axle stuff, but nice lookin truck! 31's? edit NM just read your sig...32's looks great man!

Sorry should have specified, sizes on the onesies :)

And sizes also please :waving:

Sweet! I actually have an old yard cart like that, 2 seater and all. That just inspired me to dig it out of my dads shed and get it running again! (my daughter has about 5 years before she can drive that thing though haha

Rubicon is good stuff, I have them and with that said I wouldnt buy them again. I have had nothing but issues with their rubber bushings. My originals wore out, so I got replacements, the replacements wore out in about 2 weeks, so i called back and 2 months later I got a free set which are so far so good. I am slowly becoming less of a fan of the 'johnny joint' superflex joints as well.

I like all styles really! i voted for the 97+ front though. Currently I have a 10 slot front on mine, been debating whether to tackle the 97+ front end swap. Lookin at your sig (jim) makes me wanna do it, it looks good!

the hardlines are 3/16" your gonna just have to bend and flare your own. I got 25' spools of line from my local autoparts store. Another option for front brake lines are lines from a WJ, reasonably cheap, and a bit longer than stock.

I'm gonna disagree with that. I removed my 'load valve' ran a new hardline from the front of the stock MJ distribution valve (unsure of proper term) and then plugged the bottom front plug. I also have a WJ master cylinder and booster up front. Add brand new EVERYTHING to the rear brakes and its not the least bit trouble some or dangerous. My brakes are AMAZING compared to the nothing I had before. In fact they are almost better than the ones on my cherokee. IMO its not necessary to change 'prop' valves out. I'm sure it doesnt hurt anything, but its not the only way.

I'm down for some onesies. Ill keep watching to find out sizes and prices.

more pics indeed, looks sweet!

^haha this is a new one to me, I know all the black pieces inside get nice and toast warm in even 70* weather weve been having lately.

Sweet! in a longbed nonetheless! good job

tried that the other day, its hard to grill them out nicely without botching up the fiberglass surround. I still need to find my trick.

i looked at the only xj the junkyard has and they look really different(right where the U-joints would be) I'm still pretty sure they are the same. Older ones at least (pre 96) I used a ZJ box in my MJ and had no issues whatsoever with the steering linkage onto that box. Same length and size etc.

good deal! Thanks! Guess it times to go find some!

As stated I swapped in a cluster with gauges instead of the dummy lights, now my question is: (this is all aside of buying new switches, which might be the end all result, but I want to know the options first) Can I use senders from a 4.0? Theres a million of em at the JY, just wanna know if they are even the same threads etc. If I need to buy new ones, what am I looking for, in senders for the 2.5, again same stuff I'd get for a 4.0? Thanks!

You better look at it first. They are SMALL U joints, not gonna be easy to weld something in there. XJ or ZJ steering components should work as well.

Its officially street legal! Been driving it all over the place. I love it So far getting better gas mileage than I expected. I only topped it off to full and I've driven well over 100 miles on half a tank. In my XJ I'm lucky to get 80 miles on a half tank hehe. Anyways, decided to look into the lower panels and see what kind of rust was hidden underneath. Found a little that was repaired with bondo already, but nothing to major. So for now I just sprayed it with some rust inhibitor until I can get back to it. Planning to do a full stripdown and repaint sometime this spring/summer. Couple current pics: Also put on this grill I snagged from the JY a while back and doing what I bought it for! Towing the boat. Did surprisingly good for a little 4 banger it was getting dark

Yeah that's factory original, including the decals. Someday I'm going to get it repainted and have the decals redone to factory condition. The clear coat is wearing off some and the decals are a bit faded. sheesh man pushin all that with the mighty 2.5!!!!!!! How is that to drive? Just curious cos I was thinkin about gettin some bigger tars on mine too already...Oh and what gears? mine has 3.55's in it with 5 speed 4 banger. :doh: But as for what I did today, I DROVE THAT SUCKER TO WORK FOR THE FIRST TIME :banana:

So, is the Herculiner that they sell at Wal-Mart (Herculiner brand, kit etc.) for $70 any different than the exact same stuff they sell at NAPA for $120? My walmart doesnt sell the herculiner brand stuff. I'm talking about the rattle can stuff, it comes in gallons to I think. don't remember the name. I've used herc before, its good stuff but it didnt really apply very nicely, was clumpy and then peeled in spots on a floor I did before.