Backroads

That spot on the trackbar is very likely the spot the noise is coming from. Maybe check the other end on the axle side too, that side usually loosens up before the TRE end at the frame. Either way it will thunk as you turn the wheel.

it is not new. It was a junkyard find. I'm not ready to tear everything apart just yet. It was enough of a headache to break those old lines free from the prop valve in the first place!

SO today I accomplished a lot! Scored a wj master cylinder and booster from the yard yesterday, so I figured what better day than today to put it all in! When I got the truck it had 0 brakes....found a bad rear line and that only began the work ahead. So now its got, new drums shoes, and cylinders out back. New brake line coming from the nose of the prop valve all the way to the axle. Bottom port (front) of the prop valve plugged up. And the WJ MC and BB. Bench bled the wj bb/mc, flared the lines, bled the brakes and I've got brakes...but not the lock em up awesome brakes I was expecting.... Without the truck running, the pedal is rock hard like it should be, once its running its got pressure but its got a long throw to it as well. Feels spongy. I used a couple washers to space out the booster and achieve pretty much the same pedal position as with the stock mc/BB setup. So what gives? Should I have nixed the MJ prop valve and used an XJ one? Does that even matter? Only thing I really have left to go over again would be the vacuum line from the intake to the BB and make sure its not leaking or anything...and to check the adjustment of the rear shoes. After that I'm gonna start throwing tools!

Thanks for the replies guys! I am pretty good with a flaring tool, I just re did my rear brakeline, and am about to do new MC/booster. I was just a little more nervous about the fuel. So would it be better then to cut out the bad section (probably about 2' I would take out) and replace it with a quality connection hardline, OR just cut it out and use soft line in that section? And I think your right about the hose sizes, the return is definately 3/16".

Actually, axles are 3.55 for some reason, and thats why I'm gonna swap the front out. They should be 4.10 but somehow they arent. The rear springs are either rustys or rough country, PO had someone install the minor lift (its got springs up front too, but doesnt really net much lift) and theres no give away stampings as to brand. got a bunch of killer stuff at the yard today.... gauge cluster, zj v8 tie rod, zj steering box, wj booster and MC, as well as some little interior details I was missing, replacement interior lights, 4wd selector bezel....can't wait to get greasy again tomorrow :yes:

Thank you sir! hopefully gonna snag a big ol pile of parts at the junkyard tomorrow for next weeks upgrades :eek:

took my brake shoes off AGAIN to replace wheel cylinders!

Thanks guys, I thought it might be 2.5 specific. I just like where its at, leaves me lots of room on the passenger side for underhood accessories! PM mjeff

Mine has a coolant overflow bottle that is located against the drivers side fender, not sure if this is 86 unique, but I know I don't want one of the normal ones you see that mount up on the passenger side. Also maybe someone else can recommend another way to add a coolant bottle, does it just need to be something thats non vented?

I think there was some issue with optima batteries after they started being made in mexico? But for the record I have an optima I got last springs (red top) in my XJ, that never even skips a beat on days down to 0* outside (i know its not that cold, but cold for PA)

Well I've been lurking around for a couple weeks now, been workin hard on the comanche to get it up to date for inspection! Its a 1986 Comanche custom, 2.5L, AX-5, 207 tc. Dana 30/35 long bed with a 3" lift. I wasn't crazy about the longbed at first, but I love it now!! Snagged it from a customer of mine who saw my cherokee at work and mentioned he had a comanche thats been sitting in his garage (thats right garage haha) for the last 2 years, and he was getting a new truck and wanted to pass this along. I went and checked it out, and took it home the next week! Its got 192k on the clock and runs pretty damn good! Its got rusty floors, which I havent taken the carpet up to see how bad it is, thats gonna be a summer project. Right now I'm focusing on getting it inspection worthy so I can start driving it! then will come rust fix and possibly paint. The body is pretty straight and rust free for the most part! Swap in a later HP30 up front and get rid of the disco axle. Possibly find a replacement rear at the JY. I basically just wanna clean it up add some cool gadgets and just drive it! Some pics when I first brought it home, slightly over exposed pics, it was really bright out and had my camera set up wrong! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found pretty sure this was recovered at some point, but looks nice! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found was thinking about doing some buckets, but I kinda dig the bench, its in good shape and its really comfy Image Not Found sorry guys but I can't be more happy about black interior, I really don't care for the red in some of them!!! Image Not Found first order of business was stop the leaking and fix the non-existant brakes: Pulled the valve cover, put on a new gasket, also did plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Changed the TC fluid, replaced some of the rear brake lines, new drums shoes and wheel cylinders. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found some random other shots Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found her current home! Image Not Found

I hate walmart...but those damn goodyear wranglers are a DEAL. Especially because you won't have to pay shipping and all that extra to get them on the truck. its mighty cheap for 31's!

Are you talking about around the valve cover its leaking? Or maybe at the fill plug? Generally, just undo all the bolts on the cover, leave the top one in and let the fluid drain out. Pop the cover completely off and remove all old gasket/rtv. Put a nice bead of RTV around the cover and reinstall it. Give it some time to set up then fill the diff with proper fluid. I usually fill it until fluid is at the bottom of the fill plug opening. if its leaking something else like pinion seal, or even your wheel cylinders, then thats a little more involved!

Just an FYI my MJ is an 86, 2.5 with TBI. SO I started to redo some ugly brake lines last night, and naturally...one thing leads to another... As I'm pulling the lines out, I notice all the other lines (fuel lines and return lines) at the crossmember are prreeeeetttyyy rusty. I just picture myself with rock solid brakes, springing a fuel leak and having my new to me MJ go up in flames! So I want to replace those lines too before I start driving it. The brake lines are 3/16th, and it looks like the fuel return line is the same diameter, but the other main fuel lines (2 of them?) look larger, 7/16 or even 1/2"? Just wanted to get some opinions on replacing those lines. I'm fair at flaring lines, brakes are one thing, but fuel makes me a little more nervous and I really don't want any connections in there to be available for future leaks/problems. What should I be doing to replace them? Using hardline? or some kind of braided line maybe easier? The fuel filter needs done as well, so everything fuel filter fwd is going to be replaced. Thanks for any insight.

Just discovered the same problem with mine. It must have had a pinhole (of course where Eagle said, where the line runs between the gas tank and the bed wall) and I found a puddle that turned out to be brake fluid. SO now I'm midway to replacing the entire line from the MC back.

I can hear the guys wife... "george....would you just get back in the car" hehe Its ugly fo sho.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-FAC ... 321wt_1167 for anyone else looking for one for cheap

Put your GPS back in your purse cause this thing has compass bolted to the dash. Hahahahahha!

I guess thats another benefit of having actual U joints in the shafts is you can replace them then, where as like said the CVs would be easier to just replace the entire shaft, than rebuild the joint.

Where can ya get these from?

I always thought it was the other way around....That people with GC's wanted to swap the cv style axle shafts, to regular U joint style shafts. If hes referring to what I think he is, then hes talking about the axle shaft ends (inside the knuckle area behind the backing plate of the caliper). Right now you should have regular U Joints on the shafts CV's are inferior IMO.

I'm gonna say its the master cylinder, and possibly the booster as well. I had another vehicle, same thing. I would bleed the brakes and have a nice firm pedal, but once the engine was running it would sink to the floor. If you pumped it a few times quick, it would build a little pressure, but was instantly gone. Someone then told me, when you bleed brakes on an older car/truck, to put something under the brake pedal so that when you are pressing the pedal you arent bottoming it out. Over time you will wear a 'groove' for lack of a better word, on the shaft of the MC. When you bleed the brakes and or lose brakes and the pedal bottoms out, you mess up that seal and it then leaks and will not hold pressure. Either way on the other car, once I put in a new MC, brakes worked like new!

good idear! its got, what I'm guessing is a fold out diagram of the wiring, but I havent opened that yet.

holy hell man... :eek: :bowdown: :clapping: x2!! Awesome! I just got really excited about the set I got cos (auto aside) its the right set for my truck! I would love to have a day 'in your office' to check all those out :yes:

ALL factory service manuals. Regualr service manual Body service/repair manual 2.46L engine manual 207 TC manual all wiring diagram papers, unopened :shock: and lastly a stupid auto trans manual (it was supposed to be manual, but doesnt matter I don't intend of learning to rebuild transmissions in the near future) Image Not Found