coolwind57

Thanks for all your help in 2017 Comancheclub.com, my first year of ownership. I hope to contribute and help others as you've all helped me.

Ok, I buggered up my throttle body last night during disassembly and again in assembly. First, the bottom bolt broke off deep inside the threads throttle body when removing the TPS sensor. It was still reusable as enough threads remained to secure it there but it really annoyed me. Then upon reassembly, I apparently over-tightened the top one and it snapped--not reusable. I was really annoyed as I thought I was being extra gentle. Anyhow, I properly reset my TPS and actually slapped some bondo on the top to help hold in in place. haha, worked so far! A back up of my ghetto solution is the try and figure how I can rig a ziptie it in place or something. I need my dang truck running. As noted earlier in the thread, Louisville pick a part no longer has Renix XJs in their lot. That sucks. So....Cruiser54, do you happen to have a spare throttle body laying around that emporium of yours? Plan is to use my truck sparingly until I can get a replacement throttle body ready to swap. I don't need the attaching devices, but bolts would be nice. Anyone else have one laying around?

Today I converted from closed to open system. I did the upper hose pressure cap technique, retaining my Renix-era radiator. I used a later model XJ reservoir and found that I was able to fit it pretty well back on the firewall, facing opposite of what others had facing. My old pressure bottle mount was modified and with a little welding, it all fits securely. Painted white because that's all I had at the time. I'll probably go over it with some black paint later on. Man, it sure cleared up a lot of space around my oil filter. Simplifies the heater hoses and overall cooling system now so that even I can understand and more easily troubleshoot. I used the curved ends nearest the heater core of the 97+ heater hoses that I acquired from the junkyard. Also fitted in a Prestone backflush port. Heads up if you don't already know: The 97+ heater hoses will fit perfectly--if you want reverse flow into you heater core, which you DO NOT WANT. In 97, Jeep cleaned up all the mess and complication of the heater control valve mess, but in doing so, they also reversed the outside diameters of the two heater core pipes. So in other words, the front of the 97+ heater hoses plug in to the water pump and thermostat neck of the Renix era engines perfectly. The rear ends of the hoses are now opposite IDs of what they should be to fit Renix. A bit of a disappointment I suppose as I had plumb in 3/4" to 5/8" reducers for both hoses.

Did you look into these guys yet? They may have some ideas or recommend rebuilding your old sending unit. Who knows, they may even have an OEM sitting around since they specialize in this area. http://tristarrradiator.com/

Gee I feel dumb. Looks like my issue was simply low coolant. Filled her back up and heat is good now at HEAT setting as well as VENT. Still kind of weird that I got some heat from one but not the other. I'm now a bit worried about how I lost that coolant, but I'm going forward with my closed to open conversion tomorrow.

Anything that could be harmed inside, or just passageways and nooks/crannys? I'd hate to dissolve something critical in there by dipping in a strong solvent.

ooh, good timing. I'm fixin' to do mine hopefully this weekend. Any advise on cleaning that sucker? Toothbrush and can of carb cleaner or did you dip it or do something else? Any other disassembly on it?

I've been searching around for this specific symptom throughout the morning but hadn't found much on this yet. I have moderately good heat when I switch to "VENT" but absolute cold air directed to the foot wells at "HEAT". Other than that, "Defrost" mode works ok as well as my AC. I did read that vacuum issues usually give the tell-tale sign of all selections routing to "Defrost" mode but nothing on VENT and HEAT. Man, I need some dang heat! A couple of Months ago, I had only removed my heater valve junk and reverse-flowed my heater core and have done nothing since. Didn't have much need for heat till now. Anything jump out as I work on my system this weekend? Just a side note: This weekend, I'm converting to an open system, retaining my stock radiator, installing in-line filler neck on radiator hose, running 97+ heater hoses and installing recovery bottle. Popping in a new thermostat while I'm at it. I hope this helps with generating more heat, but there seems to be something going on with my controls on VENT and HEAT. Appreciate any enlightening.

Louisville PAP had an MJ last time I was there, about 2- months ago. I pulled the rear bumper and the rear windshield and some misc stuff. And they had a handful of Renix XJs, but this time only a dozen or so 91-2001s. I'm on their text notification list for Renix vehicles which is a pretty cool feature they have there.

PM me an address.

I confirmed and answered my own question when I went out to the junkyard yesterday. The later XJs had an extended metal tube coming up from the front of engine and curving towards the firewall, hence a shorter hose needed leading to heater core. Earlier versions had shorter metal tubes.

Done deal. I'll have my Moroso on Saturday. Thanks, cruiser54.

The plastic pressure bottles of early MJ/XJs are prone to failure. They crack and leak with age. Their lids are prone to failure. MJ/XJ system is prone to getting trapped air in the system when you have to open it (often have to "burp" air by removing a sensor at rear of engine). Not easier to diagnose problems, especially me who has only experienced simpler, radiator-capped vehicles since I started working on cars as a teenager. The open system's overflow bottle concept is smart (not to mention more environmentally friendly). By pressure-purge and suction-feed via a radiator cap and expansion tank, the cooling system always takes the amount of coolant it needs--as needs and pressures fluctuate. If anything goes wrong, the MJ/XJ closed system simply pukes it out all over your firewall and engine area via that plastic pressure bottle cap. And you get no recovery. Because of all of this, I would say that an open system is more efficient. MJs and early XJ fixed many weaknesses after the first few years. This was one of them when they all went to a traditional radiator cap-on-the-radiator and added a recovery bottle. And then a couple of years later got rid of that stupid heater control valve. I'm 48. When I first bought my 89 MJ a few months ago, I popped the hood and I was completely puzzled. I'm afraid that I'll likely still be puzzled when I have an upcoming failure. Everyone shade tree mechanic and his brother knows open systems. I'm going for a system that makes the most sense instead of fighting to preserve an outdated, discontinued and failure prone (age-related) system. For a few bucks more, I can go with what Jeep smartly transitioned to.

I have a new hobby since I entered the world of MJ addiction. I love junkyards. I find myself spending hours at them. Today, in the 18-deg temperatures, I spent 3 hours in the Louisville Pick A Part because I had a half a day off from work. Besides a replacement spare wheel/tire, I scored these parts below. No Renix XJs this time in the yard. There were 6-7 total XJs, no Comanches. 1. Front side markers--These were the brightest I'd ever seen in a junkyard so I snagged them. Seems like most are bleached out. 2. Dash clock--I can't remember the year of XJ I pulled this from but with the price only being a couple of bucks, I couldn't resist. Let me know if anyone needs it. I'm thinking it came from a 97, but I could be wrong. I didn't notice when I pulled it that the bottom mount had snapped off. Still looks good. Hadn't hooked it up to electric yet to test. I already have one on my MJ, although very different style. 3. Recovery bottle and heater hoses from a 1997 model. I want to go from closed to open cooling system soon. Bottle top was extremely hard to find. Pulled it from a dodge car I think and it fits. Stock XJ/MJ were yellow I believe. 4. Fog lights. I'm not normally so much a fog light kind of guy but these babies look new so I snatched them. I do have uncovered holes in my front bumper and these'll fill them quite nicely. Can't believe how new they look. The XJ that I pulled them from was a recent addition to the yard. Couldn't believe that the PO had obviously put on new shocks, new alternator, new water pump and new blower motor. They were all new and shiny. I wanted to pull them all, but honestly I don't really need any of them. Probably should had at least got that blower motor and maybe the alternator. I can just see that PO sinking that cash in her and he finally experienced an unknown fatal straw that broke the camel's back. 5. All elusive blower motor connector pigtail. Was spliced in as a replacement. Looks mint. Probably one of the best finds of the day. All above, plus the wheel was a bit over 40-bucks. I'm all giddy. Thought I'd share my treasure hunt experience in the cold today.

Yes. This helps prevent it though. http://cruiser54.com/?p=211 I did my blower motor ground a couple Months ago. Thanks for the excellent advise, as usual. After reading this thread, I happen to look a bit closer than usual around my heater controls. I noticed that the left side of the rectangle looks a bit distorted. Aha! I bet I have some thermal damage behind it where that connector goes. Weekend project is to open her up and see what horrors await me. So I got off work early today and made a trek over to Louisville at the Pick A Part. Love that place. I needed a spare wheel/tire and thought I'd grab me some other parts on my wish list. There were 6-7 non-Renix XJs there and all but one had fried motor switch connectors. This single connector pictured below had already been wired in as a replacement pigtail by a PO. Almost fell into my hands, as the guy had used only vinyl electrical tape to "wire" it in. Works for me....easier removal. This connector was one of several jewels I scored today. Felt like a found a precious pearl after opening a bunch of oysters.

Running to junkyard later today for a spare wheel. Mine had rusted badly. And I mean badly. Thinking more about opening up my closed cooling system. Isn't there a junkyard equivalent to a new $30+ Moroso 63745 radiator filler neck that guys are using to convert to open system without changing out the closed radiator? I could had sworn at one time I heard of guys pulling OEM hose-mounted filler necks off of a dodge full size truck or something. If there is such a beast, is it made of a type of metal and does it fit? I've searched all over the forums, but keep pulling up the Moroso aftermarket. I think I'll go ahead and pull some good 97+ XJ heater hoses too. i saw that one guy said the return heater hose (the 5/8" one I believe) was too short for his MJ. Can anyone confirm this? Hate to sound cheap, but the stock 97+ heater hoses are $50+ new. Will likely pick up a new universal reservoir and pressure cap to complete the transition.

I think I may had asked this question in the past. I ended up replacing with the standard twist and push type of this era. I got a good set for my front signals from the junkyard. I was thinking that the straight blade type that just pushes in there would be more secure and last longer and I may be wrong here, but I think the current wiring harness wouldn't support the newer connectors of this type. Seems like they require an additional wire or something back when I looked into it, I just can't remember exactly. Sorry not much help, but I'm still curious. Let us know if you progress on this.

You SCORED! Had some killer litson baboy (Asawa is Bisaya) at a huge Filipina/Cano Christmas party on Saturday. We have a rather large and lively group here in our little area of Southern Indiana. I'm planning on doing my first pig this Summer and fiatslug87 has got it going on with that roaster.

I missed that. Which might explain why its only for 86-87.

I ran across this on e-Bay. Guy makes it clear that is fits 86-87 Comanches (doesn't even list Cherokee in the title). Anyone bought from this guy to confirm? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1987-Jeep-MJ-Comanche-18-23-5-gal-gas-tank-sending-unit/391892643149?fits=Make%3AJeep|Model%3AComanche&hash=item5b3e9f2d4d:g:24oAAOSwduNZxHfA&vxp=mtr

Is this a common weak part or something?

No reply, so I'll move this on over to the For Sale area.

I'm a bit late to add to the discussion, but I'd like to add one piece of advice on these wiper motors if I may jump into your thread, WahooSteeler. Perhaps it'll benefit you or other future readers of your thread. Yesterday, during a heavy downpour of course, my wipers began sweeping erratically. After screwing with the controls for a minute or two as I was going down the road, it suddenly stopped altogether. Turns out unbeknownst to me, that two of the three bolts holding the motor onto the wiper arms were loose with the third having popped out. Upon parking at my wife's work, I checked the wiper motor breaker--all good. So now, I'm in my wife's work parking lot in the pouring down rain as people walked by and I'm taking my cowl apart to find what the issue was. Scratching my rain-soaked head, I was forced to accept that there was no fixing on the spot. My wife greeted me this way. The arms had seized, causing me to drive at half speed for the 25-minute ride home in the pouring rain. During this scary and stressful ride home, I got to hear my Filipina wife tell me that we had made a mistake in buying this truck because all of the time and money I'd been putting into it. Good times, man. Anyhow, I tackled the pulling and reinstalling of the motor and arm assembly today. I've got a 100K original mile truck, so I'm assuming this area of the truck hadn't been touched since 1989. Jeep had apparently used no lock washers or any other means of keeping this bolt securely inside the aluminum assembly. My advice: Spend a few bucks on lock-tite and/or lock washers. Believe your poor, beaten-down Comanche brother; it ain't worth having this problem ever again.

Finally fixed a annoying interior lighting issue. Driver's door switch hadn't worked since I bought the truck. I bought one off of Amazon and slapped her in there today. Finally have lights when I open the driver's door. Another thing I wasn't expecting is the door buzzer (when keys are inserted in ignition). The switch pictured is the old one, which as you can see is quite beat up. Note the part number DS240 that fit my 1989 MJ.

I did the floor pan repair a couple of Months ago. Pull your seat and the carpet. On my carpet, there were "bags" of white insulation that was attached. Mine was full of water and they weighted like 30-lbs. I yanked them from the carpet and tossed those suckers. I think I have pics of them on my build page. Those things kept my under-carpet area in a constant state of dampness. I recommend tossing them and replacing them with insulation that does not hold moisture. I used duct-insulation that you can get from Lowes/Home Depot. Foil-backed and adhesive on the other side. There's several options on sound/heat deadening, just do a search on the forum. Fix those floors asap. To remove rush and see what's hidden, I used a "twisted wire cup" attachment on my 4-1/4" angle grinder. Harbor Freight has them much cheaper than other places. Using this or other means of removing rust will expose the real damage you have. Like others have said, fix any holes and POR-15 (Or Chassis Saver) it all. Then insulate/sound deaden. When I removed my carpet, I took it to the car wash and hung it up and scrubbed the heck out of it. Soapy high-pressure washing did wonders and the dang thing looked new when I was done. Nice looking truck, man. Welcome to the addiction!