coolwind57

Here's what I got so far. Next is to reassemble the body, then I'll do my USMC markings.

Just did this with Monstaliner two days ago. I'm happy with this product. It is much thicker than I thought it'd be. i went with WWII Olive Drab. If Duplicolor has color options, what color did you choose?

Yeah I want to come up with something cool. May do a combination of retro and modern marketing techniques. Historically, the Marine Corps never got as elaborate as the US Army on vehicle markings. Hell, half the time they stole army vehicles and put them in service! I just intend to come up with something to commemorate the Corps and my time. Doesn't have to be completely accurate, if that's even possible. . I think it'll look really neat. I'll take a picture of what I have so far, but I coated just last night. Semper Fidelis.

I got mine done last night in WWII Olive Drab. I think I'll do a retro USMC marking theme on mine in honor of my career. Got my bed off at the moment. First time user of this stuff and I'm quite surprised at how thick it piled on there. Texturing is more pronounced than expected too. I think I'm kind of diggin' it. I'd love to see pictures of member's MJs that are Monstaliner...erd. Anyone?

True-dat. As an owner, I wanted to know how much. Glad to hear. May be a different circumstance than I, however. I now have a brand new single line running to rear, replacing the dual lines (and therefore, obviously, a LSV delete). Perhaps more significantly, however, is that I'm running no front prop block, so no restricted orifices within anymore. Who knows, maybe I don't need the APV. My truck is still in pieces for another week or so. But I now have one installed just in case. Plus I can shut off rear brakes if I ever need to. AND I can shut her down to do some WICKED BURNOUTS if I'm so inclined!

Speedway didn't have comprehensive flow specs on that mini APV that I show in the picture. it shows gpm and max psi and states that it can be completely shut down whatever line it is controlling if desired. I was curious of flow characteristics during "fully open" setting. FYI for the benefit of anyone interested in this particular device, I sent them a message and here's their response: Perry, I just spoke with one of my techs and he stated that it will not be fully open when the valve is fully open, there will still be some restriction there. Thinking around 20% restriction, so it'll flow 80% of the fluid that a straight line will. As far as I know, we do not offer a proportioning valve that will flow as if there is nothing there while fully open, however the purple proportioning valve might flow a little better as it is not a complete shutoff valve while fully closed, there will likely still be a bit of resistance there. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Purple-Adjustable-Brake-Proportioning-Valve,23498.html

Real men save up and spring for cold air intakes, which purportedly gets you 40+ more horsepower and all the hottest chicks with the lowest of self-esteem.

I'm going to put this on my build thread as well, but for future searchers of this topic I thought I'd share the choice I made in renovating my stock brake system to include a APV. DISCLAIMER: i'm speaking in simple, general terms. I'm no engineer. One can likely really dig in and nit-pick my words, philosophies, and techniques. I'll probably just ignore you if that's the case. I'm proudly open-minded and naturally inquisitive with little-to-no inflated ego. I'm cool with constructive input and I'm cool with what I did on this project. There's a million ways to skin a cat. I nope what I chose helps to spark ideas of how others may want to tackle this job. MY SITUATION: Original front disc and rear drums. Height Sensing Valve (HSV) half-assed deleted by PO. Still had 2 old crappy brakes lines running to rear. Acceptable brakes as a whole, but redoing it all because I already have the truck apart anyway and didn't like the rusty, brittle looks of things. Plan is to renovate brake system for added reliability and maybe even get some added performance as a bonus. I chose to start things off by trying Cruiser54's front Proportional Valve (PV) trash and replace procedure. This seemed logical as a way of simplifying things and perhaps improving front brake performance.. Plus He's got real-world experience doing this and it has worked for him multiple times. I figured at least to me, that the MJ PV was designed to work a system that included the additional second brake line to the rear (to be used in cases of front brake failure) AND a system including a well-working HSV. Since I now have neither, the MJ PV is no longer being used exactly according to its design with those two aspects missing. The MJ PV meters the front brakes down considerably after the brake line run into it from the master cylinder. Just look up some of Cruiser54's pictures of those tiny little orifices in there. Remove entire PV and then T-off to your front calipers, using an inverted flare brass T. You should get better braking because the small orifices of the prop valve to the front brakes are eliminated. You're now running near-full opening size of the hard brake lines that are coming off direct from the master cylinder. Makes sense to me so I did it: and here's a view from side/bottomp: Now technically I should experience slightly better front brake because I have larger interior diameters running from the master cylinder on through to the calipers. Because I am eliminating some front and rear "bottle-necking" I used to have at the now-removed PV, I agree with many others here that an Adjustable Proportioning Valve (APV) may be a good idea. This should eliminate any rear brake lockup that I may experience if I am running a heavy payload. The original intent of this thread was to see where other guys were mounting their APVs. I ended up deciding on mounting mine under the hood after all. Even though TJ1 had a cool location on his rig, I ultimately sided with HOrnbrod's opinion of not having brake lines inside my cab. Mounting near the rear of the bed would likely affect longevity and stable function due to full exposure to elements. I completely eliminated my two old hard rear brake lines and ran a new single line back there the the axle. So here's where I ended up mounting my APV: I chose the Speedway APV because it is compact and appears to be simple and tough. Another cool feature is that it allows for full shut down of fluid to the rears, which can possibly come in handy when working on your brakes. REMINDER: If you've read much on the topic of HSV deleting/PV deleting/running a single line to your rears, keep in mind that you'll lose that safety feature that allows full braking to the rears in cases of front brake failure. I hope to have my truck back together within a week or so and I'm anxious to see how well it works for me.

Exactly what I was looking for in this post, TJ1. Thanks!

If you have no height sensing valve, as I don't have, what about load weight variations in your bed? Based upon previous posts in the comancheclub forum, I saw guys advising that the use of an adjustable proportioning valve may be necessary upon a delete of the load sensing valve. This note from our friend HOrnbrod: "Note: Depending on your rear brake configuration (drums or disks, brake line condition, etc.) an inline adjustable proportioning valve (Wilwood or similar) may have to be installed in the rear brake supply line to prevent premature rear brake lockup." From Cruiser54: "Ditch both the distro valve and load sensing valve. T the front lines together and use an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. The best combo. " And: "Ditch the distro valve. T the front brake lines together. As for the rear, ditch the load sensing valve and use an adjustable proportioning valve in the engine bay. Works way better than anything else. I have done this both ways and documented the differences." Since the PO had already deleted my load sensing valve, I have no control of my rear brakes locking up when I have a heavy load. You can set bias with an APV of course, but is it possible with one setting of the APV to acquire that perfect sweet spot of ideal braking performance when your bed is empty versus when your bed is loaded down? Guys, I have my truck apart right now. I thought since the PO had deleted my load sensing valve and had half-assed the two brakes lines going back there, that I'd go ahead and pull both rusty lines out and start over. And use a new single line. That topic I reference above got me thinking. And today is the day that I begin ripping my old crappy lines out. Why not? If APVs are adjustable, as their name implies, then why not have the capability of reaching over and adjusting a dial if you're loaded down and approach a stop light and notice that you're rear brakes are locking up? I certainly don't want that proportioning valve that Jeep Driver has in that picture above: I think I'll go with Cruiser54 on this one. I'll dump the entire proportioning block, install an in-line APV for the new rear line. This makes the most sense to me. After it's all done, I may set those rear brakes one time and never have a problem. But at least I have the option to adjust if needed. I appreciate everyone sharing their experiences and ideas. That's why I love this place. Learned a ton from you guys. Some have strong egos, and you'll sometimes see posts where guys really come off in their writing style as "inflaming" and cocky or rude. Or annoying. I hope I never come off as any of those.

Good stuff. I'm aware of losing my full-pressure-to-the-rear in case of front brake failure. I've already lost that feature when the PO deleted the height-sensing valve. The risk is very minimal and acceptable in my eyes. Good advice. I'll get a quality APV and mount it well. Man, I'm laughing because we're just not connecting here. It could be my tiny pea-brain, man. I'm certainly not frustrated with the conversation and I really hope you're not becoming frustrated with me. I'm just smiling because I am hoping that I'm not missing something stupidly simple here and I'm going to end up looking like a jackass. i admire your knowledge HOrnbrod, and have learned a TON from you since I've been on board these last two Months. I'll throw this at you and we'll shoot this poor horse and you and I can be done with this topic. There is no "in series". It's a 1989 MJ dual rear brake line system being replaced with an all new single brake line to the rear. It just happens to have an APV installed in the middle. I'm removing both of my REAR rusty old brake lines that come out of front proportioning block. Tossing them in the trash. Cleaning up my frame rail where the two old lines were and painting. Then I'm blocking the "emergency-oh-hell-I lost-my-front-brakes" port of the front proportioning block with a plug (at the block). I then run a single brand new rigid brake line from proportioning block into my cab and into the "IN" port of my new APV. I run the second half from the APV's "OUT" port and to the rear brake hose that distributes fluid to each of the two rear brakes. No, I'm running a new line- -"line" without the "s" on the end. I think I just didn't make it clear that I was removing the two stock rear brake lines and replacing with one.

I'm envisioning running a new brake line from front proportioning block to my dash and into the "IN" port of the adjustable proportioning valve (APV). Next, I install a line from the "OUT" port of the APV. This line then simply goes and ends at the rear brake hose that feeds the two rear brakes. Seems very simple to me unless I'm missing something critical here. I'm not following you about running "additional brake lines...and back" and difficulty with bleeding. I'm seeing a very simple straight, one-direction run here. Am I oversimplifying or something HOrnbrod?

What?? Six times per day?! I will be loading my truck with firewood maybe 4-5 times per year. I may haul furniture once next year. I get a load of aged horse manure each Spring. I never envisioned an adjustable "spigot" that I use 6 times per day. Just thought it'd be cool to have the controls maybe in the cab and not have to pop the hood--even more so if I am experiencing lockup while I'm traveling. My use will likely be more like 6-times per year. I have no interest in rear discs, btw. I hear complaints about MJ brakes from guys here, but I really have no issue with my brakes. I just wanted to see some creativity on where guys were mounting their adj pro valves. My truck is apart and I'll be running new brakes lines this weekend.

I get it, but sounds boring to me. Plus, you have to pop your hood to adjust after loading your bed. I'm thinking dash mount or even back along the rear bumper somewhere. Just make your adjustment when you're done loading your truck. Anyone done anything creative?

No, not the runner stuff. This is clear hard vinyl used under office chairs; "office chair mat" is probably what they're called. Nearly 1/8 thick, I'd say. I have a half dozen of these things sitting in my shop at work. Harder than heck to cut with my snips. They seemed to be just the right rigidity to use for this purpose. Cut, install/curse (because you will, as you struggle to get it between your spring and seat foam) and enjoy your new seat feel. Did amazing things for me, man.

Getting ready to redo rear brake lines. Load adjusting valve had been deleted. i want to run an adjustable proportioning valve. What's a good location? Dash mount? Underhood mount? What has worked for you guys that have had done this?

it is said that all bench seats sag. Mine certainly did. After I had my bench seat out, I slid a custom cut piece of office carpet protector--you know that clear thick vinyl sheeting that sits under office pogue's desks to help protect carpet? Slid it up under the springs, which was quite the challenge. Anyhow, best thing I ever did in my entire life, besides having children. Worked like a charm and totally corrected my bench sag. I guess those springs work their way deep into the foam padding, causing the sag.

HOrnbrod is correct. Nuts on studs, not bolts.

Bolts go directly into the floor, holding the entire bench assembly (seat/brackets). Seemed like there were 4 bolts on each side, 2-front, 2-back, 13mm if I recall. I used both a wrench and a deep-well socket. I easily pulled my bench as an entire unit. No need to remove brackets from seat itself first.

You're blessed with a very clean underbody'd MJ. Congrats, man.

Ok, so I decided to go with reusing my flare retainers instead of using the bolts and washers re-install. I saw renovating them as a fun thing to do when I wanted to get out of my office and run down to my shop during my workday. Plus I just thought of throwing them away as a unnecessary waste. Drilled out the backside: and ran my tap through: Used 1/4-20 hex head bolts. i went with regular zinc coated, not stainless. Didn't see the need for the extra expense and I don't see snapping my future rusted bolts for at least another 30-40 years or so. I likely won't be around quite that long anyhow. And if I am, then I'll just get some snot-nosed youngster to remove my flares then and pay him to deal with them. Surface prepped the raised area so that I can shoot on a little spot weld for added bolt stability. Here' what they look like complete with associated fasteners: I got them home now and will wire brush and put on a nice coat of paint tonight. Just thought I'd share this and the pics for those choosing to do this in the future.

Sorry, I had overlooked it on their website. "Normal charge for rebuilding a fuel sending unit is between $75.00 to $150.00, plus any parts if needed. Extensive repairs, Custom built units and Priority requests may cost more."

What's a rebuild run with these guys, if I may ask?

Knocked off the mud and rust flakes from the tank. Shook the tank vigorously. About 100 pin hole spots revealed themselves like magic. You're right guys. Tank is shot. Just ordered a new one.