richasco

$75 fits a SWB http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/2351878220.html

I hope everyone down there is ok. I did two rotations in Alabama for work in February and March. I based out of Alabaster and Anniston and met some really nice people. We are sending out two planes tomorrow morning to map the damage. On a side note I saw some video on FoxNews that showed a red swb Comanche that was somehow spared while everything around it was leveled, this was in Cullman County.

Try Newcomers in Waynesboro, lot's of newer jeeps. Everything is usually in good shape and they will give you a fair price.

Somehow this dealership ends up having a Comanche every couple of months. They always sell for $500-$800 more than they are really worth. For a better priced truck that might be closer to you, check my post in the craigslist section.

http://westmd.craigslist.org/pts/2198923846.html I've been watching this one for the last month and his price keeps dropping. I'd pick it up but already have one that needs attention.

It's possible that on the BA10/5 for the shifter to slip out of the shift fork. If the shifter is very loose and feels like you can't select any gear, then this might be the case. There are a couple of bolts on the shift tower, remove it and reinstall and see if you can shift again. I had this happen before and it was stuck in third gear.

1986 Comanche Custom 2.8l V-6 Column Shift Automatic, 2WD, D35 Build date: 1985, the month is illegible, most parts are marked early August of 1985. Current Location: South Central PA Status: Project awaiting work, should be back on the road in mint condition by the spring. Notes: Though faded on top it still has it's original dark reddish-brown paint which is shiny on the sides. The truck originally came with the big gas gauge, maroon interior, bench seat in vinyl along with a vinyl floor. It was a parts truck from another member who kept the mint condition bed and was going to scrap the rest. It has a few options; factory towing mirrors, the Custom badge on the front fender and the ultra rare no rust package.

The O2 sensor was used by the computer only to help control the Carter carb.

http://www.thecj2apage.com http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3b http://www.earlycj5.com

The adapter is found on the driveshaft from any Ford that had the 8.8. It even uses the same u-joint as jeep driveshafts. Don't be too quick to buy an axle that is missing brake parts, unless it has really low mileage and a limited slip. Edit: it's got the limited slip but had drum brakes, you should be able to find one that has disks.

As others have said doing anything to a D35 is probably going to be a waist of your time and money. Putting 150k gears and bearings into your rear end is just asking to be left stranded somewhere. You mentioned reusing your low-mileage bearings, do you have the proper tools to do this? Have you read the articles at http://www.off-road.com ? If not, click the link and spend some time reading in the Jeep Tech section. If you want to learn to set up gears practice on a front axle first. The gear pattern is not as critical as the front axle gets less stress and use. From my own experience regearing a D30 is very easy. As others before me have found, the setup rarely needs to be changed when swapping gearsets between D30's. Good luck with which options you choose. I think you will love driving a 4.0l ax-15 with 3.55's.

http://www.jeeptech.com/susp/elliptical.html Cheap, easy, effective and will probably give you what you are looking for.

The 97+ window seal has a channel that is glued to the edge of the glass. After the glue sets up the glass is glued to the flange in the body of the truck.

The front frame horns look nice and straight which is rare. That said, the back of the frame has been cut. I have a spare junk frame that has a good rear section if you do decide to buy it.

You might just be trading one set of worries for another. YJs have very low arch to the springs and are very prone to bending. If the spring packs are original and it has been wheeled, expect the main leaf to be s-shaped. You won't get "death wobble" but you may have vague steering or experience wandering due to worn steering components. Then there is the computer controlled Carter carb. If you think Renix systems are temperamental think again. Good luck and post some pictures.

For $500 buy it. Check the frame around the shackles, the front floors, the body mounts and the windshield frame for rust. Also look at the spring packs, the main leaves like to bend around the eyes. Check the hard top for cracks around the mounting points and where the back hatch lift struts attach. Looks like a great start for a project or just drive it as is.

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/1656761500.html Don't know how far away this guy is but maybe you guys can work something out to save it from the crusher.

The only problem that I know of would be the knock sensor. I only know the HO systems so wait of the Renix experts to offer their two cents.

How many red rings are you getting? Two is an overheat, which means you need to clean the heat sinks and possibly get new fans. Three is the video card, which is easy to fix with the x-clamp mod. Four is a cable problem, which you can fix by getting a new cable.

Sounds like you are having way too many problems with that truck, better give it to me and get yourself a new one. I promise I'll take very good care of it. :D

Get under the drivers side of your truck and look where your driveshaft attaches. You will see the linkage between the driveshaft and the body of the t-case, look up a little bit and you will see the switch, it will have a big rubber connector with the vac lines on it.

Drive side of the T-case above where the shift rail exits the case. Use extreme caution, the vac lines can be very brittle.

Suggesting that someone spend time and money on a 27 spline 8.25 is like suggesting someone spend time and money on a D35.

You can get the long arm upgrade and add the missing parts on your own. I read a rumor somewhere that they will be producing a kit for the MJ soon, did they mention this to you?

The 8.25s are nice because it's still Jeep. But it's hard to pass up an Explorer 8.8, you get disc brakes and a lot of them have limited slips in them. Remember to grab the u-bolt plates and the driveshaft flange, you'll need them for the 8.8. Also think about u-bolts, I'll let others start the new/used debate. Look for the other post with the tag codes for the 8.8s. Print it out and take it with you so you know what your looking at for ratios and lsd or not. Good luck finding a D44, there is something to be said for the coolness of the bolt in factory option.