richasco

Long Arm Install It's the Rough Country kit on a Cherokee, but as previously stated should be about the same. Towards the end of the thread, he talks about his impressions after having the kit for a while.

Start with the IAC. It is prone to fouling. Disconnect the battery and remove the connector. You do not want any power going to it when you remove it from the throttle body. Once it is out clean it with throttle body cleaner or electrical parts cleaner. Then check and clean the recess in the throttle body. Post what you find.

The AMC20 as used in the CJs had two piece axles. The AMC20 in the MJ and FSJs had one piece axles. The tubes are slightly weaker than those on a D44, however a truss can fix that. On a side note the differential is used in the H1, so that should tell you all you need to know about the strength of the center section.

Did you click my link? The 750-16 is $122 per tire. Those are 31.6x 6.2. Also remember you will need different wheels to run narrow tires.

Military NDTs<--Click Look at the 750 series those are around 31x7. If you want very tall and skinny, look at the 900 series. Those are 35" tall and about 8" wide.

There are a handful of sensors that could have failed to cause the problem. It's OBD II, so hook up a scanner and let the computer tell you what's wrong.

Google CL Search

How true! I had found the perfect rust free, straight Hunter Green '92 on CL, but the seller wound not answer emails or return phone calls. My only must haves are '87+ and swb. The truck will be painted, no matter what the original color, because it will be getting a face lift.

I'm looking for a truck to start my project. I need an '87+ swb. I would like a green 4.0l 5spd 4x4 that is in descent running shape with minimal rust. However, I will take just about anything. My plan is the '97+ update, so a stripped roller is ok. Rusted out floor pans are ok as well since the newer interior requires floor work anyway. So if you have anything within a few hours of DC let me know. Thanks, Scott