richasco

do the really cool designs never make it into production, or when the do only have a short life cycle? http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2013/02/11/rare-amc-amx3-prototype-on-display-at-chicago-auto-show/?intcmp=HPBucket I wouldn't even ask permission from the better half to buy one of these.

It's a beautiful car for sure. It's more Willys-Knight than Willy's Americar. It will have a large sleeve-valve six in it. I posted a link on the aaca for sale forum, hopefully it will be restored.

It just depends on which side of the fence you are on, I'm stuck in Nassau until Monday afternoon. I would much rather be at home enjoying the cold weather.

The stories from behind the counter are always better. There was a very nice older gentleman who came in every three days for a quart of oil for his van. He would always ask for help pouring it in and I would always tell him that he needed a new engine. He didn't care that there was a softball size hole in the block with part of a rod hanging out. This went on for a month before it finally died. There was the constant stream of younger guys coming in needing brake line conectors for their race cars. They would always want the cheap compression fittings that were marked "Not for brake system use". Not one of them ever wanted the correct connector which requires you to flare the tubing. How can I ever forget the 50 something Chevy guy who swore up and down that his all original Chevelle had a 396. I tried to tell him that he had a 402 but he still demanded the parts for a 396. Cuss at me once shame on you, cuss at me twice you'd better apologize because you will be driving back to the store after you realize I'm right and you bought the wrong part. And no there is no bolt that will screw into that junction block to seal it, and yes you do need rear brakes. There are hundreds more, but just know that there are far more idiots on the front side of the counter.

If the bores are that dirty, then you will have a lot of build-up in the intake and the intake ports in the head. It's probably worth your time to just pull the intake and clean everything. Gook luck.

Put regular plugs back in, those E3 plugs are a gimmick to seperate you from your hard earned money. You should think about putting the stock air intake back in as well. Colder air decreases fuel atomization. Also since no one else has mentioned it, if you are serious about saving money sell the truck and get a suitable commuter car. You will be suprised at how much money will be left in your bank account when you don't spend it commuting in a full-size truck.

http://www.gislaved-tires.com

It pays dividends to make nice with the Parts Pro. "Usually" they are the one person in the store who knows the in's and out's of the system and can help you find the right part the first time. They should know all sorts of cool things like which year Wranglers and Corvettes weren't made, when a 396 isn't a 396 and that most stores carry sparkplug wires for a Delorean but not the flux capacitor.

Truth. The only issues I ever had were due to the trans being worn out. The shifter issues started around 219,000 miles during some hard winter wheeling. I shifted hard into third and the shifter dislodged from the shift cup. I burnt the clutch a little but still made it home. I replaced the shifter and kept driving it for another 20,000 miles. It wasn't replaced until the D35 blewout it's spider gears and I decided to replace the entire drivetrain.

When the shifter gets worn, the bottom can be forced out of position. If you unbolt the shifter and lift it up you will see the cup that the bottom is supposed to sit in. Just reallign it and bolt it back down.

Waggy axles are 62" and most are 3.31 geared, they also have a 6x 5.5 bolt pattern. Have you considered the Explorer 8.8? They are very strong, have disc brakes and come in many different ratio's and limited slip diff's are common. All of that comes in just about the right width and a 5x4.5 bolt pattern.

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Very possible, just not fun. You need to lower the the transmission a few inches and then support the back of the engine. A couple of long extensions and a u-joint will come in handy.

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/3217315658.html

ArticAir These guys have been around for a while, and their units work very well.

http://frederick.craigslist.org/pts/2961696088.html

Can you post a pick of the damage so far? There may be a far simpler and more effective way of removing it, provided it isn't damaged to badly already.

Clicky! This source is geared more towards swb jeeps, but it still has a lot of good info.

I would take a look at the service manual first to see if there are any special tools or procedures. The 231/242 are easy to work on but I do not know about the AX-15. I have rebuilt older Jeep T-150s and have to say that it was easy and gave me more piece of mind knowing that everything was new or in good condition.

Sounds like you have your choice of donors, I would go for a mid-nineties XJ. In addition to the obvious parts, you will need to grab the radiator, frame brackets for the engine and the trans crossmember. Your biggest issues aside from a rear drive-shaft will be broken bolts, welding new perches on the rear axle and a fuel pump.

FYI that gas tank is in pretty good shape and should be restored. The new replacement tanks have the filler neck just a little off. As far as your engine goes, check the block around the distributor hole for cracking. Rust in the cylinders is usually ok, these engines can be bored .060 over. You can date your jeep by checking the top right side of the trans for a casting date, or on the round boss by the diff covers on the axles. Forgot to add that if you are going to rebuilt the engine remember the serial number is engraved just above the water pump.

Serial starts with 451-GB1 which makes it a 1951 CJ3A.

Any of them have a long bed in good condition?

http://york.craigslist.org/pts/2411445252.html

$200 looks like a LWB http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/2349989187.html