Rymanrph

I didn't realize that the cruise control switches were unique in 1997. My donor was a '97 and one of the switches broke when the air bag blew. I replaced it from another vehicle, but I don't remember checking to see if it was a '97 or not.

Maybe someone can move this over to the new section. It runs and it drives! I have just a couple little things left to do and then it will be for sale. When it does sell, then work can begin on the blue one.

Who is our contact there now? I dealt with Rob a couple times, but I haven't ordered anything in a while.

I actually didn't use the rear support on my center console (granted the airbag controller is mounted in there so it provides some support), but the front two mounting hole are the only thing locating it. I had planned on using some other mounting solution, but the console is solid and doesn't move up and down or left to right, so I haven't bothered. With the e-brake, you can use your stock cable. You'll need to cut the bottom off of the hand brake assembly and then fabricate a locating mount for the cable, but the actual cable itself will work fine. I went back to look to see if I had a picture of how I mounted my cable but I don't have one. Here are a couple from Bo's truck:

The 33s and 4.56 gears are a good combination. I wish I had a little more power on the road, but I blame the extra weight of the tires and a motor with 207k miles on it. I've only taken it off road once, but it performed well. My gas mileage certainly took a hit, but that was to be expected. When I first swapped in the 3.55 gears and 31s (I still had the 2wd AX-15 installed) I got 21 mpg on a trip back from the mountains. With the 4wd AW4, 4.56 gears and 33s, I'm happy to get 14 mpg. The output shaft and the axle yoke should still be roughly parallel save a couple degrees. The shop that welded up my perches just kinda guessed apparently. I added some shims, but the angle of the shaft is still a little steep. Had I used a regular 231 case instead of the 242, I would have done the SYE kit and CV shaft, but I was just not happy with the options for the 242 and the one that I could live with was just crazy expensive. Typically, you would move the slip to the shaft and have the double joint at the TC output. Leaving the slip yoke at the transfer case while still having the double joint on the shaft is somewhat of a compromise, but its worked very well for me and it was certainly cheaper. I'm sure there is someone on here that could explain it better than I, but I've not run into any problems with this setup. I see you're working on a couple late '60s GTOs. I must say I favor the '67 body style more than the '69. Good luck; I'm working on two '68 Barracuda notchbacks at the moment.

Yes, they will. I will only put them on for slow speed offroading. Not ideal, but I believe I can make them work just for the MOAB trip. My thoughts are that I would rather have the clearance than the gearing on that trip. What do you think? Better to leave the 31's on? No, I'd leave as much clearance as possible as well. Are you gearing your front to match the back? I was just thinking if you were going to regear, to only do it once with what you're going to need. I wheeled quite often in my TJ on 33s with 3.73 gears. It wasn't ideal, but it certainly got the job done.

Aren't 33s going to be a little much for 3.55 gears? I had 3.55 gears in mine with 31s and would have liked 4.10s. I upgraded to 4.56s when I added 33s.

I love all the muscle cars they do on Overhaulin' as much as the next guy, but I like seeing them do something out of the box. The recent two-part episode where they took months to completely redesign a Lotus Europa was pretty incredible. There is no conceivable way they could have done half of that work on their old 7 day deadline.

I had an employee that kept referring to her "Jeep." To her Jeep and SUV were interchangeable; she drove a two door Explorer Sport.

I selfishly hope they don't produce Comanche specific rear flares. I think they look better and I've already cut mine for the pocket style flares.

I just recently saw this and thought I'd post it up for anyone that was interested. http://www.nates4x4.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MJ_LB_RG They bolt the unibody rail and the pinch seam and have an optional tube step, but they are only for the long bed. I asked about guards for the short beds and received the following response, "We don't have any immediate plans to do shortbox rocker guards but possibly at some point."

I wish. The truck has taken a back burner to my Barracudas that I've been working on (and the '97 TJ that I fixed up and sold). I got an outlet installed in my garage this weekend for my welder, so at some point I'm going to be looking at building some armor for the Comanche. It's probably going to be a while though because the Barracuda I'm keeping is taking up most of the garage right now in pieces. I would like to go wheeling again sometime this summer though.

I actually like the square headlights better. I looked at an '81 sport side last year. They wanted way too much for it.

I actually mounted the bottom of the dash first. That way I could swing it up against the firewall and mark my upper mounting points without having to hold it up on either side. This is a project made much easier by a second set of hands, but having done it by myself I have to give a hand to anyone who does it by themselves. Its good to see the red disappear; It clashed pretty bad with the yellow.

There were Formula S models, but both of mine were originally slant six cars. I'm obviously not completely concerned about originality with the motor swaps, but I do want to maintain the year appearance (the Plymouth letters on the header, the grills, parking lamps, side markers, tail lights, trims, etc.). I got the rear end swapped over this weekend, so I went ahead and swapped the wheels/tires too. I tried to get it started, but I thinking my timing is way off; I'll have to address that this weekend.

If you look at the red one, you can see a bunch of '67 parts on it (grills, parking lamps, trunk trim, etc.). Best I can tell yes. The engine bay and all the jams are still shiny and it has a lot of pearl in it. I bet it looked really good when it was first painted.

The red one now has the 318 that I pulled from the blue car. The blue car is getting a 360 which goes with a considerable amount of force more than the 318. 360 on the left, 318 on the right.

The bad thing about buying a car you like, they tend to multiply. The blue one is another '68 with a 318/904 with an 8.25 rear end. The paint is shot, but the body itself is in much better shape. Despite this being originally a slant six car, its much less molested than the red car, so I'm swapping the drive trains and rear ends and then the red one will be going back up for sale.

Ryan, that looks great so far. The picture of the Cherokee from the front is pretty funny. It looks pretty crazy with the roof line so C#*@-eyed. I've got a 360 waiting to go in my Barracuda that needs painting; any advice? Your motor looks clean enough to eat off of.

You're right; its the four cylinder. Good luck with the sale.

I thought all of the Laredos had grey bumper end caps not black. At least the one I did.

If you're listing a TJ Wrangler in the Charlotte Craigslist (where I sold mine) and it hasn't sold in six months, there is either something really wrong with it, or you're asking too much. Specs and price?

Well, I didn't get my asking price, but I got what I wanted. I'm sure I could have held out for longer and maybe gotten more, but a bird in the hand...

I listed my '97 TJ for sale on Craiglist late Saturday afternoon and I got a text while in church yesterday morning. By 2:30, I had sold the vehicle. I've heard of people selling things on Craigslist pretty quickly, but I've never been able to sell a vehicle that quickly.

This was Dexter as a puppy. I don't have any grown pictures of him in the truck.