wannabeMJ

by the look of your clutch line the master looks fairly new to me I would start by replacing the slave on the firewall ( go to a JY it will be cheap) and by the look of the rust on your clutch line I wouldn't doubt it could be the faulty part try this with a buddy or your dad: fill your clutch fluid go under the truck have your dad or someone push the clutch pedal and look for leaks (try wipping everything down before you do, so you can see new leak) on the fire wall - faulty slave along the line - faulty line under the tranny - faulty master that should keep the cost of the fixing if you can find the bad part good luck :thumbsup:

browse a lot you might find one site with some deals don't go for the first one you found some include the shiping in the lower 48 states take mesurement of your gaz tank and the # of gallons it can take that will be the info youll need

its done 30 min and the guys where out of my garage now the GF will be happy she'll have the garage back at night to park her car

I'm officialy jalous of your adjustable control arms :fs2:

I love your seats they look brand new and for your sirius if your not a smoker you could put it in the ashtray so no one would know you have it

look on the net for a replacement on the gaz tank unless your tank is spotless and rust free I would not keep it no point on trying to fix a hole in it .........weld it :no: :thwak: ( HIGHLY DANGEROUS ) and for the price you're gonna pay for a new one not even worth the time your gonna spend on it congrats on the buy have fun wheeling your

I beleive that post 95 is a good choice for an 8.8 for the disk brakes option

borrow a heater from my buddy stan because : THE NEW WINDSHIELD is getting installed this afternoon :jump: :jump: so next week alignment then Ill be

if your use to a FWD its normal to have less steering on a RWD but don't worry you'll get use to it

any good guy who would have made an instalation in your diff would have stamped the bearing carrier with a punch so that might be something to look for but if the diff has been swap for one with a 4.11 original ratio there isn't to many ways to find out

the sliders seem great I'm thinking about doing the same thing on mine but without the tubing very good job on the joop paint my YJ has the same color scheem olive drab with flat black accents ( no f*cking chrome for me) I also just ordered my set of bushwacker how hard were they to install ??

Welcome to my D44 world Don, after all the leaking axle seals I found out one of my axles was bent. instead of the 250 shipped I just went ahead and picked up the Chromoly axle kit for about $400 shipped. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22789&hilit=alloy At this point with the HP of a stroker, and knowledge that stock engines are bending D44 stock axles the alloy usa axle kit at $340 might not be a bad investment. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ALY-12135/ :cheers: in deed I would go for a chromo kit for 2 reason 1- no more bend axles 2- life waranty (just in case you wheel that 44 real hard ) and as far as a locker goes in the back I love my detroit in my YJ especialy in the winter time

so today is a waiting game :popcorn: I can't wait for the guy in brown to show up at my door and see what santa has brought I know what he's bringing but its always fun to unwrap things :dunce:

when I redid my MJ I went trought the electrical and made sure there wasn't any tape I took all the connection, cut and splice everything with connectors and then retaped them there isn't a lot of wires in an MJ so on and off I think it took me half a day total mind you I did every part by bits and pieces as I was working on the truck 5 min here and there but made sure there was no naked wire good luck finding it

well you have found a temporary solution to your prob but didn't find the cause I'm pretty sure that you have a loose wire somewhere that is grounding the circuit even tought the fuse is not blowing no more I would still check your wires (and keep a couple fuses in hand just in case) :smart:

if your gonna change the knuckles I'm assuming your gonna change the ball joints to so the best way to do this is cutting them just cut the castle nut off both of them and use a punch to tap them out thats what I did on my 44's when I rebuilted them only after I tried to get the castle nut off for at least 1 hour :doh:

mine was an 86 and the tag was in pretty good condition only surface rust

check the tag on your diff here is mine last 4 digits 41 10 = 4.11 Image Not Found

the damn starter would not stop giving me probs so I went and bought a new one fired right up so the prob wasn't the electrical but the starter itself thanks all for the replys Dominic

well 160$ down the drain :ack: I went and bought a brand new starter but at least the jeep start and run so moving on to other stuff I need to adjust the track bar because I think the jeep is still dog tracking and I need to learn how to do an allingment ( if thats how it's spelled) still waiting on my bushwackers and the new steering wheel more comming soon

well I tried something today regarding my starter I tried instaling a wire between the casing and the selenoid to the ground terminal of the selenoid what happen?? as soon as I put the battery back on the starter cranks so that's not the ground I'm looking for Ill try something else later on

Ill post a pic later on, on what the actual probleme is and explain it

found it it seems that my starter is not grounding properly when we retested on the bench we had to ground the selenoid body with the ground prong if not the selenoid would push the gear out but wouldn't turn the starter thanks for the answers that will be one for the years to come

I think the ''new to me'' starter isn't good after all I just tested it with an old battery an the selenoid engage but it won't spin so Ill be on the hunt for a new starter :fs1:

I've change everything to make it start the starter the relay the wires the ignition switch the cpu fuze links are good the starter make noise like the selenoid engages but won't crank the engine plz I need ideas or sugestions